BigRed350x

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Depends on what you're doing with it. If you're strictly drag racing, they would be fine. If you are dune riding or trail riding, they are too big IMO. I'd go with a 32-35mm carb on a 4mil.

There is plenty of camping and parking, but no water or power hookups. There are BLM bathrooms, that's about it. On the busiest holiday weekends you won't even see that many people out on the dunes at KP. Its by far the least ridden dunes in the country, and one of the biggest. Its not easy to get to though, so not many people venture out there. The picture in my signature is taken at the south end of KP. You can see the dunes going all the way up to steamboat mountain in the background.

I'll trade you a set of ported stock stroke cylinders with pistons. PM me if you're interested. I have everything you would need to do the swap...

HJR

YES! Well worth the drive. There are dunes at Sand Mountain, UT that are close to what you would experience at St. Anthony. Well worth the drive. We are going there for Easter weekend. - Jared

That's not even all of KP. That's only the ORV portion of the dunes. The dunes themselves are actually close to tripple the size of the pics, but the rest is wilderness study area. The portion I posted up is the public ORV area. ... and yes, it really is THAT big. Its the second largest active sand dunes in north america.

Send the pics to [email protected] I'll post them up for you...

Here's a comparison between KP sand dunes (the three pics across the top) and LS, OK (the one picture on the bottom). All images are taken at the same elevation from google maps. 27,750ft.

No comparison between St. Anthony and little sahara in OK. Unless you live right next to LS, or its the only place you can afford to go to I don't see any reason why you wouldn't go the extra distance and hit some real dunes like Sand Mountain, UT or KP in Wyoming. Both are well worth the drive, over going to LS.

What does that have to do with helping answer the guys question?

Guess it depends on what you're doing with the bike and where you want the power to come on... Each setup will be different, and not everyone would want them to run the same. If I was going to run drag pipes and big carbs I would just get a set of cubs. That's just me though... and truth be told I would rather go with ported stock cylinders or twister cylinders over the serval or cub anyway.

I chunk the crossover tube in the trash as soon as possible and order up a set of good intakes and better carbs. One less place to risk an air leak.

I'm not at liberty to disclose the nature of any possible agreements that may or may not exist. Edit: LOL

LOL, the port timing numbers they have is geared more towards this setup. Stuffing big drag pipes and big carbs on them is a little goofy. I tend to agree with snop's view of setup on these. Personally I would never buy a set. I don't like CP Industries products. I will spend the extra money on twister cylinders any day. JMO.

What else have you done to your banshee? Are we supposed to just guess? Have you done a leak-down test and ruled out possible air leaks? We need WAY more info to help you out.

This would be a little goofy to try and get something like this going... think about the overhead involved in doing this, just to please some random folks on a forum. I'm guessing most builders won't go for it.

I'd do it with a smaller carb... anywhere from a 28 to 33 keihin would be my personal preference. Probably T5's or Pro Circuit pipes. Higher compression and a little timing advance would top it off nicely.

The Trex cylinders can run hard if they are done right. Sounds like the first thing you need to do is figure out what stroke your cylinders were set up for. If it were me I would pull them off and send them to Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing and have him go over them and have him tell you what crank they were set up / ported for & if they are going to run good or not. Probably the easiest way if you don't know how to measure them or set them up on a degree wheel yourself. If it turns out they are set up for a 4mil and kevin says they will run good, I would buy a 4mil crank from him and run em! If it turns out they just aren't going to run right, I'd get a set of stock cylinders and have kevin port them... Give him a call, his number is in my signature. Tell him Jared sent ya... - Jared

LOL

I like the PJ's. Run them on a couple different setups and they do good. We run them on methanol though, not gas.

How would these do on a 4mil small block twister?

...and not going to glamis any time soon. I'll take St. Anthony or Sand Mountain, UT... Best of luck down there guys. I like the pics of the sand highway and the racing scene down there, but its just too many people for me.

THANKS!! Great seller here guys!

You can do a quick n dirty lower end rod bearing test by trying to hold the crank still and lift the rod up and push it down. If it has any up and down play, then the bearing is bad. A little side to side movement is ok, but you don't want any up and down. As for crank bearings, spin the crank holding the rods. If you don't hear any weird noise or feel any rough-ness in the rotation and nothing feels sloppy... that's about all you can really check without pulling the crank and sending it to a shop to check it out. You can also put a dial indicator on the input and output shafts and check for runout and how true your crank is rotating.