BigRed350x

Yeah, I found that one already, but it was measured with the carrier and all the crap in the way. I'm looking for a precise measurement, since it was for a sale I did with the guy and want to make sure I didn't mis-represent the axle I sold, and to make things right if I was in the wrong... I just don't have a stock axle around I can measure off of.

Your posting this stuff up with pictures of your work on a public forum... you have to be ready for some opinions on your work to come flowing in. Especially when people see some potential hazards with what you're doing. I will remain scared throughout the testing phase of your experiment. ...and in the thread you referenced... look at the quality of the guys welds and compare his work to yours.

Its like 32 to 35 depending on elevation and what factory jetting it came with. Common mods are pipes, reeds, bigger carbs, porting, cool head, timing advance plates and 4mil stroker kits. With these basic mods you can get into the 60's and 70's depending on the options you go with. If you do everything right you can get up into the 80's and 90's pretty easily with 4mil setups and methanol. It all depends on how much $ you have and how crazy you want to get with things. welcome to the HQ!

Need some quick help here guys... I sold a guy a +4 axle, but may have mis-represented the sale. If I did, I will make things right with him, but I need some info. What is the width of a stock banshee axle? Is it 34" ? I always thought the stock ones were 34, the +4's were 38, and the blaster axle was 32, which is a -2 on a banshee. Is this correct or not? If I was in the wrong I need to make things right with the buyer. The axle he bought from me measures 38 & some change. Is this a +4 or a +2? Thanks for any help. - Jared

Extended swingarm is one of the first changes I do to any banshee I take to the dunes. I would love to sit at the bottom of a dune and watch you with your -2 to stock swingarm and a 4mil serval try and get around the dunes with any sort of straight-blade paddle. The pic in my sig is a 4mil stock cylinder with +6 swingarm, and I'm up over the tank on hills to keep the front end down. -2 swingarm on any good running 4mil in the dunes would be asking for trouble. On dirt, yes, I agree with you. On sand... no way.

seriously? did you ever try and price out a set of 16 stag rippers with 83 RO? These aren't rockymountainatv tires... Bump for some sweet rubber!

I had a WCR transmission in my 10mil big block and was unhappy with the quality of work performed on the drum, as well as the trans trying to skip gears.

If you want quick turn-around burt, give HJR a call...

I still don't understand why the ziptie is on the crank beside the TZ bearing. What's that all about?

If the webs are black, chances are its from the same place vitos gets them... They are the only ones out there that seem to have the black webs. I would check with TDR and make sure they gave you the same $800 crank and not the cheaper one they sell.

I didn't see any plug welds in his pics, which means the slug is basically just end-cap welded, and the ball joint tube is just welded to the sides of the original a-arm tube and the end of the slug.

I agree. Only he will know whats best for him. I suppose my humor doesn't always come across the best. Happy New Year!

No problem shifting a stock style trans with a lockup here...

In asking about a company, you are going to get people's opinions. I gave my opinion of the company by saying he could have spent the money better elsewhere for what his application was. Pretty simple. There are cheaper ways to make a banshee transmission shift smoother and easier than buy a micro polished pro mod transmission, when it wasn't needed. I HAD a WCR trans in my big block and was unhappy with it.

I would take it to a shop that specializes in banshee's. Give Kevin at Herr Jugs racing a call. If you rode it without air filters you were definitely going lean, and the detonation was probably a result...

Castor 927 is the only oil I run. Great stuff. Its a little messy on the exhaust side of things, but it lubricates very well and will mix with gas, race gas, alky / methanol. It WILL separate out in cold weather though, so watch out for that...

Sure your flywheel isn't slipping on the crank?

I am familiar with them... I just think that the money could have been spent a lot better elsewhere, considering the guy probably isn't running a top-of-the-line drag bike that's competing in the fastest on the planet races or he wouldn't be here on HQ asking stuff like he did. I can understand trying to get every last pony out of your setup... if you already had the building blocks to get to that point. So, chances are, its very unlikely he will notice any difference at all from the fancy polished transmission. He would have been better off buying a stock trans and putting the $ towards some aftermarket parts he actually would notice the difference from. If WCR wants to claim that this polishing removes the need for billet gears, they should probably test that theory and stick their polished gears in some of the big monster bikes running at the planetsand races and prove their point. Until I see a polished 2nd gear hold up the same in some of those bikes as the billet gears do, I will remain on the skeptical side of the fence. You whole post sounded like a sales pitch you copied from somewhere. lol ...and just for the record, I HAD a WCR cut 2-5 override in my 10mil big block twister.

I would also expect a lightened frame for that price... stock frames with all the hideous mounting tabs look horrible.

HaHa, just watched a video on youtube about it. Pretty cool process. From what the video described, it looks like doing a frame would be a PITA. Cool looking, but I'd rather just have a custom PC job done for that price.

Stock frame, V-blade paddles, stock cylinders, No JJ&A, No 3-spoke, No Spindle mount wheels, no pingle, no fiberglass.... I find $20k very very hard to believe. I've got maybe 10-11k in a 10mil big block twister... So 20k is pretty hard to believe. Sorry, but I call BS on that one. And mine isn't even that fancy!! Check out Jmadd's collection of bikes... that dude knows what 20k worth of banshee looks like. haha!

Bump for kiel's sweet ass banshee!

ROFL! If vitos told you to jump off a bridge would you? There's the vitos way and then there's the right way. GUARANTEE you that you will NOT get the same performance as a correctly built 4mil from their hobbled together magic piston spacer plate junk setup.

This thread is REALLY scaring me now... You could have at least taken a wire wheel and cleaned the area where you're welding. I can still see black paint all around the area where you were welding. I also don't see any heat discoloration on the steel, so you didn't have your arc temp set correctly. Do you have life insurance?

Send the cylinders off to Kevin at Herr Jugs and get them bored/honed and new top end kit. He has super fast turnaround time. Your problem looks like detonation. What was your compression / jetting / elevation? You were either running lean or had an air leak, or had too much timing / compression for your fuel you were using. Hate to say it, but with what your pistons look like this would also be a great time to split your cases and get your crank checked out. With that much detonation for that long, chances are that your crank is probably trying to separate as well. Give Kevin a call, his number is in my signature. He can get your cylinders bored & honed and hook you up with a new top end kit to match the new bore and get it back to you faster than most of the other guys. He can also take care of your crank if you decide to split the cases and get it checked out. (I would) - Jared