BigRed350x

If mine took a "walk" I would go buy another one with my swimming pool full of $$. Actually you can pick them up at pawn shops and egay for less than some of you guys spend on your fancy snapon tools. They aren't that expensive. You can pick one up that will do the flywheel job for less than $250. And considering everything else you can do with them, thats not a bad price.

If you were anal about tightening the flywheel to the proper spec, then you'd have to pull the clutch cover and put a wrench or socket on the nut on the other side. Using the flywheel to hold things still while you torque the nut is putting all that torque onto your timing key. Those aren't very strong to begin with. If you want to get technical and do it the proper way, then you need to hold the nut on the opposite side of the crank to prevent rotation. The motion used by the impact will spin the nut on or off regardless of the position or slight motion of the crank. If you use a good impact you can just hold the flywheel by hand and zip the nut off.

You can run stock carbs on your setup no problem. Don't go with just any number on your main jet. Every bike is different on the jetting it needs. Start off BIG and work down. I'd start off with like a 330 or 340 on stock carbs with a 4mil with T5's. Better safe than sorry. There are some guys out there who are a lot better with the jetting with stock carbs who can help you better. I do methanol and don't run stock carbs much any more...

Its a lot of work. In the end to do it right it will cost you almost as much as an aftermarket cylinder. I've seen a 10mil stock cylinder that K&T did for a guy out at sand mountain. He had to have the outsides of his transfers epoxy'd to make enough material to get the ports opened up enough for the durations needed on the 10mil. Then you need a taller sleeve. To get the sleeve to fit right you will need a huge spacer plate. Then all the port work... So you're looking at a sleeve job, a port job, epoxy/welding, spacer plate... To get someone to do the work with enough quality to make it run right will cost you 3/4 of what the aftermarket cylinder would.

The reeds need something to close against, or the whole purpose of the reed cage won't work. lol. If you remove the dividers you won't have the support the reeds need to work properly.

Awesome! Thanks kiel! I'm trying to get my little stock stroke back together this winter and want to keep it on gas for cruising around the dunes. I can swap these 18's in and run it on methanol, but its kinda nice to have a smaller duner around for friends to ride or for a spare.

I've always liked the plain look myself. I usually get any company's logo milled off my stuff before I run it. If they want to pay me to advertise for them, I will. In general, if I didn't ask for their logo on it then its coming off. Word of mouth is usually a better advertisement anyway. If people ask me what parts I have or run I will tell them. Stickers just look cheesy.

Seriously... if you came in here and made a post about this without checking that your tank was full first... Jesus, as least rule out the painfully OBVIOUS stuff before you make a post.

Kevin works alone at his own shop. Not sure what you're trying to say here...

Remove / clean your petcock internals. They are rebuildable. Take some carb cleaner to the filters while you have it apart. Spray some carb cleaner backwards through the petcock to dislodge any crap in the filters. A better option would be to junk the whole thing and get a pingle.

I believe stock is more around 23-24cc. As long as you keep your static compression below 155 you can run pump gas. If you have your timing advanced at all that number will drop. If you are at +4 timing I would shoot for 135-145psi. Your elevation will determine that dome size you need. Like loco said, 20-21cc will probably keep you around the pump gas range. - Jared

Get the spark arrestor made, stamp the forestry approved lettering into the silencer below the factory decal. Make it look professional and they probably won't catch it. If they do, then its back to the drawing board.

Does anyone else know what the fuck that guy just said?

Hate to see it go kiel. Someone is getting an awesome banshee though!

Here is a set of boysen dual stage reeds on some aftermarket reed cages.

ROFL I don't see anything wrong with that...

You didn't have a big enough impact then. lol BonBon has the 18v monster tard one and it will zip the lugs off my F350 no problem & I know they are torqued down a lot more than the flywheel nut ever should be, even from the factory. Maybe you guys should try and use a little heat on the nut before trying to remove it. I put blue loctite on the nut and the taper any time I install a flywheel, so I usually hit the nut with a little propane torch before I remove it anyway. This would probably help you guys out a bunch. That, and a good impact. haha.

The confusion is why you don't just use the proper tools / methods? Sounds like you need a better equipped toolbox. LOL Dewalt makes some great 18v battery powered impact guns. I know BonBon has one and I have one. I use mine for crap all over the banshee. Changing tires, clutch hub nut, sprocket nut, flywheel, changing tires on my trailer... they have a million uses. Its a good investment.

I used to be into all that sorta stuff back in college. Had all the liquid cooling stuff too. nvidia liquid cooled, liquid cooled ram, it was ridiculous. Bump for a cool setup!

That sucks. Ship it out to me with a bill of sale, I'll get you a title and "sell" it back to you for $1 with a bill of sale and a good title. LOL

Depends a lot on what surface you're racing on and rider skill. Motor gearing and tire size will also play an important part.

I personally like the design of the 3's more than the 2's. The 2's have too many little screws that can come loose and go flying into your top end. If you already have the dual stage boysen reeds, you probably won't notice a whole lot of difference with the vforce system. Both work about the same and both are better than stock. To answer the other guys question... Yes, if you are running stock reeds, then get whichever vforce reed system you like more. Both are better than a stock setup, especially on a 4mil.

I'm confused as to what the heck you are doing with this tool. I've never once had to use a strap wrench or any kind of odd-ball tool to hold my flywheel for any purpose, or to get it off. What the heck are you doing with this thing and why??

LOL, no, I don't think so.

Your parts might move faster if they were clean and had better pics. Those parts look like they were rode hard and never taken care of.