camatv

if you have both pipes slap them on and just see what you like better the 916 sound great

just splice the wiring together!! i even heard the yfz exhaust fits right on!

the digatron i have is hooked striaight to the headlight wiring off of the stator no regulator no hand warmer no battery issues no extra box no extra bullshit. they also have the warning light feature's and have data logging. you can hook them to your laptop and customize any feature on it download runs and the better ones have multiple inputs aswell. you can do rpm, mph, 2-4 egt's and water temp. it has 2 screens and is realtively small first time i saw a koso i thought it was neato. BUT i wasnt aware they can be ran without the huge battery box. i had made the suggestion to some of my friends that unluckly bought them that they should try to hook them direct to power off the bike.. if the koso was availble with all those inputs and could be reliable and would have download/data logging for around 300 bucks i'd consider one.

k+n's work just fine. you just need to clean them and keep them oiled.

for whatever reason noone seems to use a return setup ina pumper on atv's BUT its on any other pumped carbed setup.. weird huh,., needle and seats, bad floats etc..

radar. gasoline will bubble and coating/ paint etc. BUT alky dosent gas out like gas does. i think it would work ok. im thinking Red!!!

cool ride flat black goes with everything! its nice to see a green and black bike that dosent have monster stickers on it.

woa those are weird. the +1 forward and -1 swingarm solves the banshees balance in jumps. but thats old school moves the motor more to the centerline of the frames rotation.

when i replaced the ones in my j-arms a few years ago for all 4 i think they were same price as 2 from roll and yamaha. the ball joints last a very long time

keep the big screen on the tank. use yamabond to seal it if you like, the pingles i get have a big rubber gasket that goes inbetween the tank and the flange. that seal all looks aight might have to try it!

they unscrew. that style of ball joint is a warrior style from 1987. i believe it was the only year they did that. to me it was a great idear. i believe east coast has an aftermarket replacement balljoint available. you should be able to get the removal tool for them OR tap them out with a punch.. make SURE whoever powder's them fully masks off the threaded area. and also the socket cannot have a very thick powder on it either ( round part where the jount screws down through. ) if there is to thick of a powder the ball wont go in right and can cross thread..

drag and have to have to have the lightest thing around. use hyme. IF you ride at all id use the ball joint.. both companies make great products. if your buying a-arms swingarms id deff recomend stellar. i personally really like his j-arm set up

the crank in my 10 mill is the 800 dolla tdr crank its fordged and has been very reliable. in my OPINION a 10 mill crank should cost the same as the 350cc oem replacement. all they are doing is moving the pin location. i went with fordged after seeing crank after crank failure with billet cranks. even in the automotive performance industry billet cranks are known to fail horribly

whats all that globby crap on those cyls? he he

there are 2 diff styles of rad valve the old ones are very rare. they dont have as much of a velocity effect to them.. one of my favorite intake set ups was a set of 28mm pwks and some highly worked rad valves there are all kinds of mis matches int he castings and i feel there is a lot of good in them that said a set of vf3's work just as good if not better with much less work.

or cheetah..

just order the right stuff.. get a cometic or a TUSK, athena OR even OEM

homeless people in another country made that sucka. it originated from MR WANG AKA sstar on ebay after that who knows where it went through. cannot get a straight answer from anyone who sells them.. BUT if it checks out ok run it!

sell them and buy some lectrons you know i had to

all i have to say is unloaded my 535 made 209 hp.. HA HA!! snipers work great ona serval. lil bit of work on the jugg and they are a very nice overall powerband. al

this happens crank let go. on older motors freshen up the top end and a lot of times the let go after that.

please buy a repair manual

naw he was just blippin the throttle like the 4 choke bikes do.

seriously get a DIGATRON. of all the ones i have used they are the BEST KOSOS suck i dont know why they are even sold. i have personally seen a bunch of them fail utterly after only a few rides. my digatron is almost 7 years old and still works like it did when new.. water resistant, has a built in battery/ chaging system. its onkly one box to screw with tis simple and the better ones have data recording. the ones i have used int he past were 2 screen dt-50 series. most have tach, water temp, and 2 egt's. trust me yoru not going to be able to stare at your egt while you scream down the road. you NEED to have recall. and on longer runs your temps will get much higher than short runs if you have differnt run lengths its nice to have one for proper temp set up. what i used to do was set mine up for peak of about 950ish ( alky) and then i knew if i needed another lil bit i could tune down to 1050-1100. if you setup to hit 1050+ you need to allow time to cool down or setup a lil on the fat side on the lower rpms to help cool it down. egt's are also good for setting up and getting close or seeing if there is an impending probelm with your motor that you cannot hear/ see. i had a crank bearing fail one time and that side went sky high on one run. after i noticed that i shut the bike down and parked it it still ran and honestly wasnt making any noise ther was a lil bit more vibration than normal but i could have very well ran it another pass and toasted the entire engine. i havent used an egt for specific temp's in a few years. anymore i just look at the plugs. BUT if your new to alky its a decent way to kinda see how your tune is. you have to be VERY specific on where the bungs are placed and EVERY motor may have differnt numbers that it likes. the way an engine runs will have major effects on actuall EGT numbers. just because your friends idles at 300d and yours is at 225 dont think its a bad thing. use it as s tuning tool and a preventative tool. plus some models you can do lots more than just egt... IF you know what to do and look for.

in my yfz build thread there is the pics of the one i have. for the price its a great item to have. i even use it to unload stuff thats too heavy out of the back of my truck. slide it onto the table move it in and then drop it on the floor. the extra $$$ for the 1000lb capacity is worth it BUT either one would be great in all reality there is only one other lift i would like to try. but its hard to get here and its kinda high dollar..