camatv

m3 and m5 have "stuff" added to help you cheat and make your motor explode... htere are also other brands of alky out there that have a nice additive package to them and dont suck in as much moisture. renegade alky for instance..

this one got pushed back again. too much to do in the shop DANGIT!@! someone come do the day to day stuff for me so i can work on about 4 differnt builds i ahve going right now.. 1. this yfz 2. the "drag version of the yfz. yes i have another whole roller 3> barney ( bone stock "looking" bike and i mean pipes and all 4. turbocharged cheetah. might be a 400 and maybe the 485 i dunno yet this ones going to take a lot of time.

sweet bike!! hope you dont kill yourself when you stick the nose in the ground from that front end. you better put a lot of psi in those marvins. at least 300~!

its not like around here coup we just race and hope for the best good luck finding motors that are your same CC size. heck i cannot count on one hand how many "its just a 350" i ran against then a year or so later it was for sale and its majically a 10 mill stocker or a 7 mill 68mm bore stocker etc. or the good ole "its just a 421 cub" and find out later its a 10 mill. gets old quick. everyone knows what i ride. and can see how fat i am. no hiding that. i have been called a cheater many times in the past when racers actually cared. i solved that everytime with an honest " i'll tear it down if its not what i say you get the bike, if its what i say it is i get yours." never had to do one at all. BUT nowadays the lil guys race the 611- 700cc DM's and get called slow when the huge motors just egg them out at the end. what a joke if peeps want to get mad and smack each other over it so be it. maybe they should lay off all the energy drinks and diet pills.. anymore i just go out for a good time and to see if my ldears actually work or not i dont really give a fucc who i'm racing against if anything i'm running against myself. i have seen more BS and shit talking from most 4 stroke owners i know than anyone. wont be long and they will be at each others throats.

builds like this one are always the ones you rember. just think in 5 years you will be saying rember that week we put that twister in that old crappy frame and scrounged up all those parts man that was a fun bike.. i have about 4 of these in various stages laying around the shop...

oh no. CALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL THEMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

last chance!! still for sale if its not "in the works" by the 28'th im turboin it!

cant trail ride ultralights!! i said screw it and stayed home. was only going to be there for a day friday and the sand conditions are so bad im not wasting the gas.

i will be there friday. want to take the 535 BUT really thinking of just rippin the wife's bike.. i have to come home friday night tho DAMNIT!

hmm i had a set on a bike i built for a guy i felt they ran really respectable. for a trail type pipe. the timings in the motor were pretty agressive and it was a blast to ride. sounded great too

my 535 is going into its 6th straight season on teh same crank, pistons, cyl and plating, head and transmission, shift forks etc. its on its 3rd basket, 2nd clutch and 3rd set of cases.. let alone numerous base gaskets from blowing the cylinder off the cases. hardend custom studs fixed that issue.... my wife's old 350 got new pistons and a fresh bore after about 2 1/2 years of dunning and racing and trail riding. and she would race it till it ran out of gas. then get more and go back out.. its now on its new cylinders and same lower end/ crank. this willb e its 4th year on all that..

you need to do a squish test.. id start by going through every q mr N2O asked and answer them if your not sure how or what he is asking then you need to consult a builder.. i have had much better luck with domes perposly built for alky than the shelf 17cc gas domes. but thats me they have all been a lil high on the squish side to make them live on hot laps. and the rest of the motor is dead nuts or at least in the "safe" zone.. if you have 2 diff cyl temps your not looking at water temp... you COULD also have an air leak on one side the hotter side possibly.. NOSS head are some of the best out there. anyone that is having issues with one is setting it up wrong or abusing the hell out of it or has some other issue with their motor. any threads anywhere about blowing o-rings with a noss head thats the real probelm. it NOT the head/

cyl looks like a trinity ported 421 cheetah. the cyl will need the intakes and reeds OEM reeds/ intakes will not work. top case will deff need filled and decked. it will also need a differnt set of domes and that wont be hard to do blank set of dome's from trinity then send them to NOSS and have him cut a 421 CUB pattern in them for what your going to do gas/ alky thats the motor i'd personally like to build. but not this cyl.

270-310 start rich and work down look like bills pipes. i thought all bills pipes had a big tag on them. if the chamber is very fat might be some other pipe

ok then back on track you need to know what crank your going to use. IF you do a pop up piston IT MIGHT WORK. any builder worth a shit can tell you if they will work or not if you measure your top down exhaust and transfers i can even run them and see what you end up with.. most times the transfers may jump to 132 ish and the exhaust may bump to just under 200. with a lil fiddlin with base gasket thickness you might get them to work. if noone else wants to help do some measurin and let me know.

lowest i got a drum for was 85. average is 130-150 highest was m-1 at 210 a drum. set the bike up to run on pump gas. single carb you probably dont need that much powa anyways. race drag etc i personally feel should be on alky.

the only way i can make any money right now is labor. i got tired of people asking me a price on something then saying they seen it on ebay for bla bla bla. i just refer them to the companies anymore. im sure im not the only one that has had this happen to. and a lot of times i point them at chariot, mattoon, noss, stellar, TDR and other site sponsors quite often. i personally stress the value of using american made aftermarket parts and using american labor to produce them as much as i can. the quality is there and the price i feel is competitve to other "imported crap". so why use junk when ther is such a nice selection of quality parts these days? i have seen the vast majority of people repairing and building bikes to be on a strict budget. not to often do i get peoplel in here that say just do whatever i dont care what it costs..

i call dibs DAMNIT!!

sucks your that far away. but he always answers the phone if not leave a mesage. or call again the next day

call a+s. is the motor weak? or brand new.. play with the jetting more too.

the toomey needles work excellent in stock carb's i would say yoru going to be more in the 280-310 range on you mains. jetting is not an exact you have to try differnt ones and see what the motor likes the best.

good golly!! rtv is 2 pegs above "import grey" it costs the SAME BUT import grey is DESIGNED to seal stuff like these cases.. use rtv and you WILL get a case leak if you dont think so i really dont give a crap yamahabond hondabond whatever its all import grey. the stuff you can get at the auto parts stoooe is a better stuff i feel. no stringy bullshit. for the price of that three bond crap i can buy 4 tubes of import grey.

ktm smokers are bad ass.. with some of the snomobile industry staying strong on 2 stroke tech and also evinrude's maintaining that 2 smokes are domanat against 4 fart can rides there is hope still

i work part time in parts industry because my vast knolwedge in the auto repair . plus working with these parts people for so long i made some good connections and i actually like what i do now. it enables me to still do all my work at home on these stupid ass retarded atv's

i was flat rate at 17 an hour at one place and then went to a place that paid by the hour at 14 it was funny that at the end of the year i made wayy more than the flat rate pay job./ PLUS i was able to actually fix stuff without worring about how long it took. then i got a real job and realized how retarded the whole automotive repair industry really is. seems funny that a salesman walks around and farts all day, drinks coffee, screws the secretary's and makes 2 times as much money. someday you will get your head out of your ass and realize what a dumbass you really are. i hate getting older and realizing that at that age i was the same retard as you are. thinking anyone gave a shit about all my toys and my stupid ass apartment.. all i know is when i went to the races and the dunes and nearly EVERY trailer down there has some kind of construction, electrical, or plumbing place on the side you start to see where the real money is actually at. if you had any brains you would go back to school for finacial management or accounting or something in the tech industry and make around 50-120k+ a year. instead of 25-28k a year and think your hot shit.