camatv

look its pretty simple really.. if you RIDE the bike and you have NO experience with an overide or duneable or spring assisted bla bla bla do a stock modified trans that actually works OR expect to be putting shift forks in it and most likely trashing a few gears.. when the trans is lised as a 2-5 it would be able to be upshifted fullthrottle from 2nd-3rd-4th-5th. most times it would not have a 1st gear OR would have first but not be overrideable from that gear to start. if the listing for the trans shows 1-3 m4 m5 then it would be overrideable from 1-2-3 and then you would need to manually shift to 4th and to 5th these transmission are a total waste of time i guarantee that you will need those last few gears and will loose races by using one. if its listed as N down neutral is all the way down its done a few ways but the better ones actually shift into 6th gear but 6th is not there anymore. some go inbetween 2 gears like stock but they are actually inbetween 6/1 gear. then there are also 6speed full overrides. and billet 4 speeds transmissions.. i PERSONALLY prefer the 1-5 N down over ALL other overides due to the fact its locked in 6th ( NEUTRAL) If its built right. ive seen some that arenot. and not floping on the edge of the star. PLUS if you gear and use the trans corectlly you can have a much stronger launch with one. instead of overloading in 2nd and trying to use the clutch to control things more. BUT again thats my OPINION> ALSO in my OPINION i'd say a PROPER stock modified trans is the way to go for MOST rec riders out there. and NO its not JUST cutting the gears on the trans. there is much more to it.

i actually have the loading table and a real MC lift. i used a harbor freight loading table for a long time now i bought the 1000 lb one its MUCH better built i personally think its one of the better built items int he store. it goes up VERY high it goes up fast enough and the entire front end and rear end is off the ground it makes swaping tires a breeze and if i strap the front or rear to teh table i can completely remove the front or rear end and not have to screw with anything. i really like it. . the handle is easily removed if you want BUT when the table is all the way up its as high as the handle so it never actually gets in the way. those so called atv jacks id say are just for moving stuff around..

< >

taco's burritos ya know whatever works. there used to be a billet caliper and also used to be an alluminum brake rotor but it took funky pads to not eat the rotor up.

undercut trans?? ok if its done RIGHT it dosent need undercut. i like smokin peeps with a 350 anyways. 10's take a lot of work. and the differnce from a 7 stocker to a 4 is very minimal if any. if the choise was 4 or 7 i'd do a 4 every time. then when the money is there do a 10 and skip the 7 all together.. let alone a few parts in the motor the chassi would need to handle the power and also your own personal riding skills would need to be able to control it.

yes its a CUB

K+N all the way. keep it clean clean it RIGHT> the ones that let shit in have rubbed on the frame or the other area's and have holes in them soooo mount them RIGHT also

oh man

if your going to toss it in the trash you can toss it in a flate rate box and ship it to me. you'd probably be happier with a chariot or NOSS head anyways uses much more popular prodesign style domes.

watch your reinstall tq on the gun you dont need 500ft lbs of slamming tq to get it on. you will just strip the nut or stretch/break the crank

crank blew/ took out piston weird the head is ok tho? also if the crank let go it could have wobbled a tad on that side and made an air leak that may not show up through the crank seal? long shot? rebuild it top to bottom clean everything start over.

clean off what you can.

BURN!!

you would need to know the original cylinders top down measurements then need to know gasket thickness and then plate and 2 gasket thickness on the plate set up. just going from other juggs for comparison isnt going to get you exact numbers. you need to know what your existing cylinders are. most times the transfers with the plate end up in the 34 + ish range kinda high id think.

been thinking of moving how far is whitefield? bet if i got a job id start sweepin floors too congrats on the move thats a big step with so many closing down and shutting the doors these days!!

after screwing with e85 i just decided that it wasnt worth the hassle since methanol is the same amount of work and results in more powa.

decided to keep it..

SOLD

also included is a "how to use goggle" instructional VHS paced with hours of point and click results

yes i still have it. i dont have the degree ring. im about to make a few dies for it but if i can sell it first then...

if the hole dosent go through you can use a lefty. if the hole goes through and you ahve access to the other side i just use a std bit and screw them right out. it works nearly every time. lil heat and wala! but of course you have to have the cases split. if the cases arent split you cna try a lefty bit BUT id split them anyways to get all of it cleaned out for sure..

41.3/44 is a popular size. if thats what you have they will work just fine. if you have 44/44 HV's i would guess if the intake is big enough to fit them they would work fine as well. you almost cannot overcarb a drag cub. id sell a set of pwk's in an instant to get some lectrons. you can tune every aspect of a lectron as well with 2 part's ( needle, pj) instead of all that other bullshit on any other carb.

gotta have a "kit" before you can buy it.

i listen to the motor. if its got a leak it wont come back to idle very quickly also. sure sign of lean/ leakage. the lab seal has a grove cut in it and it gets some oil in and through it over time it kinda seals off the 2 sides like that but not much issue really

oh wow. i actually mix up a special prelube ( kinda like camshaft pre- lube) that was recomended from a honda OEM repair manual i have. i use that and prelube all the gears and gear train when they goback together. best thing i have seen i THINK is run a good motorcycle specific actual oil in the cases.. to me type F in a slipping clutch motor ( HEAT) is bad it breaks down really fast.. other thing is every time you go ride i always shift the bike through all the gears right off the trailer. like put puttin out the gate or over the entrance whatever just take 2 sec and go through all the gears you dont have to do 90 mph i usually just shift them all really quick. lube up the shafts, lube the sliders lube the metal to metal surfaces ( thanks yamaha)