camatv

i mean your crank dosent look JUST like this?? except its a 4 mill http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-YFZ350-PIN-WELDED-NEW-CRANKSHAFT-STD-OEM-SIZE-/250846982759?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a67a53267&vxp=mtr#ht_849wt_1163 better pic of the rods http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BANSHEE-YFZ350-2-SET-CONNECTING-ROD-SET-115mm-/250783531903?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a63dd037f#ht_500wt_1180 it MAY have been assembled by crankworks i dont know. im not sure why they would not use hotrods webbs tho.

tell the guy you got it from bullshit its a wang crank. crankworks DOSENT paint ther webbs black and use crap TZ bearings. and crap rods. if crankworks sent it to them its from wang.. and everyone is making a buck here and there. i know what i get the SS cranks for straight from wang and its cheaper than the ebay listings most of the time. your being fed a line of bullshit. only true crankworks cranks i have EVER had were hotrod castings or special forged ( from i dont know) and ALL had hot rods rods on them and use NTN bearings.. i also agree id take a hotrods 4 mill crank from jeffro for the extra 20 bucks.

in my opinion they should all cost the same i mean if the webbs are built by the same homeless chinese peeople there is not any differnce in manufacturing just moving the pin location/. thats what i think is bs about those. the 350cc cranks are 299. i can understand if they have better higher dolla bearings on them. but the extra for the stroke is retarded

its lonestars version. its still a modified 250r front geometry. rides better than ANY other frame i have ever owned. if the other bike im looking at sells this will get the motor pulled and im putting in a put put 350cc so i dont kill myself.

its most likely blaster pistons but try to source some forged pistons either way your looking at about 80-110 per piston kit ( with rings).

yup all that and does the hose have clamps on it>>

id do 5000 for the complete roller. it will come with the stator and electrical for the lights and battery. i will remove the motor and the ignition parts. pipes carbs etc. will sell all the tires with it also.

klotz supertechniplate. redline oil mix for alky.. thats about it others use 927 but i personally didnt like it.

your best bet is to call PACKARD and get the needles they recommend. sometimes it necessary to get 2 sets and switch them out and then play with the settings to get it dialed in. id GUESS you'd need 3-1 xl. but i may be wrong. also with those style of pj's you need to be very careful with the screw in the top it CAN unscrew all the way and fall out (YIKES) and cause all kinda of issues. a clippard style pj cannot come out and in my opinion is a much better setup.. just a suggestion. BUT of course you'd have to send them in somewhere and have them installed,.

no BUT you should make sure they have an overflow feature. and if these are lectrons the pin style floats have a tendency to turn sideways and stick letting the bowls overflow. i use a differnt float out of a minkuni carb and adapt it to fit the lectrons..

will sell roller with HID's and larger stator and reg/ battery. pics taken today. pics on stand show full travel

ok i found a bike i'd like to try and buy today is 3/8/2012 i need to habve funds to me in the next 4-8 days. i know thats fast so i'll make this quick. if the bike i'm looking at sells i would like to keep this bike. 2000 LSR outlaw chassis VERY little time it sat in lsr's shop till 2002 was built for desert racing originally and then the guy who order'd it didnt like desert racning and bought a harley. then it was purchased by the guy i got it from in 2002. had a 421 motor built for it and was rode probably 1-2 times a year i bought it in 2010. it had just been top end rebuilt. i brought it home and blew the basket and trans out of it within 2 hours of riding it,. removed motor put in one of my stock mod trail transmissions and replaced the clutch basket with a matton HD basket and HD clutch. reported the motor and put 32mm lectrons on it and coverted it to acohol. the motor on gas produced 80hp and 55ft lbs of tq. hotrods welded 4 mill 115 rod crank, ported stk cylinder at 68.25 bore with HP blaster pistons in it. custom domes custom map in dyna ignition box, matton basket, trail mod trans v-force reeds, NOSS head ( the best) 250watt stator with floated ground and regulator and small 12vt battery running HID headlights. lightened stock OEM flywheel, i have gas needles for it. if you want also have big desert tank and front plastic cut to fit. PEP front shocks full adjustable big shaft ZPS shocks. rear cr500 NO link PEP ZPS shocks has about 19" travel in front and i think 20" in rear. frame has NEVER been raced or crashed. or flipped wrecked. has hyper beadlocks on dirt tires 8" rear dual locks on hub mount wheels, fronts single lock. 10". has 250r rear pattern and i will include a set of paddles with it 8 paddle haulers and set of shark fronts. pric is firm no less dont even offer lower. if your looking at this you know what it is YES i may take the motor out and sell the ENTIRE rolling chassis. but i'd need 5000 for it. let me know if you'd like to pursure that. if the bike i'm looking to purchase sells this will not be for sale..

i run a set of billet bowls, custom floats, and a pingle and run my 535 out a long wayys but thats on flat ground. it never acts starved for fuel

how did i miss this thread. wow you guys should race side by side i bet the times would get faster

yes it charges a set of cpacitors inside of it ( like battteries) and its also how it figured tach signal.

i have some cpi inframes if you want. they are perfect show chrome

why buy carbon fiber white to just cover it up with some goofy sticker's anyone PAYING you to run their stickers on your bike for freee advertising?? didnt think so.

sice redline is close just use him.. how are you sapposed to learn anything if you dont ask questions?? by osmosis?

eg plugs are great but are discontinued. try a br8eix plug the cdi ignition will have a better time firing that plug at higher RPM's

get a manual take some measurements if your not sure how to do that. take to a REAL atv shop that has a manual and can do the measurements for you.

cheap copied shit is just that. jj+a axles are way better. matton ( site sponsor) makes a ton of billet parts IN USA with quality materials. NOSS makes a very nice head. chariot also makes a lot of nice billet parts as well.

there are other ways to reduce rolling resistance. not sure if i would trust ceramic in anything. even from the bearing manu's they dont like shocks. they like an even load .

welp ya know you and me have some similar idears!

chepo's!!

nope. dfw made his own.