camatv

every piston has a differnt clearance its designed to run at. taking a ready to go out the box cub and droping in any set of pistons is not the way to go even a cast cylinder would in a perfect world need sent in with its pistons you plan to run and then plated for those pistons. then replacement pistons should be mic'd and checked to the bore of the cylinder and set up for them. of course this is not a perfect world most want the top line of performance in the bottom line price tag. i am pretty sure mccoy uses unplated cylinders, does his porting THEN send in the jugg with the piston and has them plated. certain levels of my porting i REQUIRE a bore top be done or i wont do the cylinders. welded cyls MUST be bored after the welding, porting process.. and some of the more agressive ports i prefer to bore them and then that makes sure the piston to wall clearance and the width of the port is dead nuts onto what i want it to be... of course thats just me and i cannot comment on anyone elses process.. its hillarious to me that the best racers/ bike owners around seem to be ok with subpar assembly..

maybe its an athena china port job? i mean really anyone that can turn a wrench and can spend money on bolt on's through ebay is a builder these days.

the end of the shaft is probably mushroomed. did you use the proper puller when you took the flywheel off?> or a 3 jaw backwoods chevy harmonic dampner puller?? if you used one of those i'm pretty sure you also damaged the flywheel as well. might be time for a new crank end and a new flywheel. good luck!

spend 50 bucks and buy another set of spindles and newer style calipers.. the spindles you have might even be bent or have some stress issues also especially if they are stock and the bike was MX raced.. if its that old im sure every single high wear point on the entire bike is shot. a-arm mounts, all bearing's and surfaces. etc..

if you dont feel confident and want the repair done right the first time look around your area and see if there are any local shops that specialize in banshee's. im sure from your location there are a TON of reputable shops' or builders that can help you out.. i know there are a LOT of people that just want to ride and have a good time after working a long week and dont really want to mess with these kind of things. either way a GOOD honest shop can figure out your issue very quickly adn you never know you may find a place that you can use in the future that you would trust with any other issues you might have. big or small. hands on experience is hard to beat.

hmm basic porting 101 tells us that for low end and midrange the boost ports are mostly for broading the powerband out.. BUT they can also hlep a drag motor in a way with some differnt angling.. IF you really really really think about what possibly might be going on in there..... so yea big ass CC motor thats got a very narrow actual powerband in the upper rpm limit of the rotating assembly is probably not going to see an improvement from boost ports escpecially one that is blowing the wrong direction.. the ports in the sleeve im not sure what to think about that.. i rember seeing them from jims old oem cylinders but never really seen a before and after effect shown on a dyno.. whats funny to me on your cylinders is how rough they look and how they seem ( to you) to run pretty good... you better start buying some rings and pistons. bet its going to eat them alive. already looks like the top of the port is getting beat up.. yea everyone needs a starting point and if your tired of paying for the work adn dont mind spending about 5 times what a port job would cost on proper tooling and time for technique building then for all means go for it!! there have been many a blown up motor in trying to figure out what "works" and truthfully with out a dyno you cannot really push motor's to their absolute max. only thing you can do is your own "theriories and real world" testing.. id LOVE to see a redline super basic port with the knowledge he learned from all that time he took on the stockers . just take a virgin set. do JUST cylinder porting angles and port dimensons known to work. basic basic work on the intake. and basic work on the transfer bridge.. just round it our and smooth out the casting flaw's.. then slap them on and really see if all the other work with smoothing and cleaning these things up is really even dooing anything..

out of PURE BOREDOM i'll say this one more time PROVE it. DONT just say ohhh im going to show the WORLD that this is bad ass.. if you have something that works a DYNO ( AS YOU STATED) is a great tool for showing if anything actually changed thats about the only thing its really good for.. showing changes after a baseline has been set up.. test these things against the industry norm and post real world results.. otherwise shut the fuck up and DONT post a damn thread saying im gonna dyno bla bla bla bla horse shit and then never show or even attempt to show what happend. and unless you ran these aginst ANY other high performance coil. ( accel, NOLOGY, DYNA, even stock shit) then you DONT have a clue if these particular coils worked better then them or not. and NO i dont care what the hell loco said im not swinging off nobodys nuts or sucking cock or screw'n goats this is my own personal take on this whole stupid thread. thanks dumbass once more another "parts review" FAIL

bad ground bad cables on main coils, loose connections on wiring, bad feedback from frame etc.,.. replace the entire setup. cleanoff the frame COMPLETELY when you remount the coils so the background noise can disapate better

my 535 has no windows in it

i have seen 2 chrome frames up close one was a full drag chassis a long time ago and the other one was i think that yellow bike ther BUT it had full axis shocks, and way more detail in the chassis itself. ask gary GDUB on here about his homie's chrome framed bikes they are very nice looking.. if your looking for show quality then yea chrome is the shit! chrome powdercoat is total bullshit UNLESS your looking for a polished faded silver look. to me there is sooooo much you can do with powder for certain effects that its not worth a single coat or color scheme. i acheived an amazing effect combining 3 differnt coats, and flakes on my wife's bike. its really cool if you can think outside the box on powder.

powdercoating is a TON of work.. frames take a lot of prep and proper prep on the rest is critical.. 200-300 for a frame depending on the number of coats and where the prep is when you drop it off is about average.

that would be neato.

what the hell happend!! i leave for a few hours and all this starts up!! i better still be getting a damn burrito..

haha youd think that after selling more than any other applications that they MIGHT considert that the banshee is a real platform they would do the same old BBD stuff like that cage.. i like the reed stoppers to keep them from fluttering so bad and exploding..

you dumbass mattons triple is only 7500 go get your fluffy fat ass on that one

im going to call bullshit on that graph.. every shear i have ever used made more or similar HP through the revv's than the cpi's infact its only a very few motors that i would even recomend the cpi's on and most time its more of a welp its already got them and thats whats going to get used... on my own old 350cc the cpi's i had on it would run ok BUT after putting on the shears i had built for it, simple small bore pipes, the motor came alive it sould pull harder out of the hole adn off the line ( lower rpm range) and rev to the damn moon. making power all through the upper rpm range.. my wife's turd has a set of cpi BB's inframe on it ONLY because i got a great deal on them, they have beautiful chrome, and im not trying to break any records with the bike.. id much rather have a differnt set of pipes on it the cpis hold a lot of heat in them i hate trying to change plugs or even do jetting readings with them, the thing that rdz graph shows IS that the sniper ( as i have said over and over ) is like a hoped up cpi. for a dune rider they are excellent. on a drag bike im sure they will hold their own very well. if you want a first hand experience with those pipes please read my above posts. i understand the degree stuff.. BUT i felt most pipes i have looked at seemed to be more of a 2 stage diffuser and single stagle baffle? im still learning. and unless you teach yourself ( reading books, limited internet knowledge) or spend a couple grand on programs, your totally on your own or in the dark.. if you do start to really look at what a pipe actually does, its a very interesting adn realitevly unknown factor in a 2 stroke motor.

they are so custom they change from day to day i have dial~a dome.. and thats very true if its a trinity dome beter stop while your motor is still alive..

dang thats a big ass pilot. drop those jets in and start form there any other concerns and PLEASE read the entire jetting FAQ's thread and see if any of that helps

you loose 20pts off your cool meter. my 350cc stocker has "big bore's on it

oh id put all of phelps cash on at LEAST double the HP of stock that would be about 80 NO problem! good thing its got works shocks on it. just put ITS FAST in the forsale add when you list it on craigslist.

you will need a stock modded transmission. i know someone who does one that ACTUALLY works ( HINT HINT) if you would like more info PM me.

umm ok sure! send me the chassis

paypal me 50 bucks and i will tell you how to do it.

ive never cut up a plug..

cut it. and measure the insides sheesh!!