sandstalker

I have a 421 cub motor now on alcohol and I'm not sure if my cool head will work on the supercub? Will it or not and if it won't what do I need? I'm thinking I can get 10 mill cub power out of a 4 mill supercub and not have to spend extra money on a 10 mill crank. 115-120 hp 4 mill will put a nice smile on my face

You purge your motor with straight 87 pump gas without any oil mix?? Do you put all your faith in plug markings?? I understand what your saying but if you have a dyno with a wideband then use it and don't half ass it by using plug markings!

I run mikuni 41mm tapered bored to 39mm carbs on mine with 17cc domes. The carbs are a bit over kill on my 4 mill cub but im not starving it of fuel and the bowls are massive. I have my plugs gap at 18 and timing needs to played with on the dyno with a wideband. GET A DUAL PINGLE!! After you get finished riding you need to flush or prime the engine with a oil based race gas mix to clean all the alcohol out of the motor. The alcohol will break down after about a week and will seperate leaving moisture on the internals and eating the inside of the motor up. Its not hard to do but it is a PIA to mess with. Also you will go through alky like a crack addict with a day off! I run through about 10 gallons on a good race day. It has it's benefits in my opinion by running cooler in the motor should give more life to the engine as long as it is setup right and runs better the hotter the weather is outside. Other guys may have better suggestions but that is my setup.

Forgot to mention I run 19 inch front sand tires on a DW2 drag cut wheel. For hillshooting you can do 21 inch front and be fine.

I have a 4 mill cub on alky with +10 swingarm, 22x11x8 sls 12 paddle staggered extreme on a DW2 8x8 wheel. Plenty of traction with this set up. I'm a 215 lb rider.

Sorry guys i went bigger on the picture with the host for the link but the site keeps throwing a smaller size up when i post it,dunno!

Pictures are sent

The pictures are as big as the site would allow. The graphics is from AMR racing and i chose the spider X design with the black and red contrast would flow with my bike better. Very high quality vynl kit but took some time to get it to lay down right without bubbles or dimples in the graphics. It looks 5 times glossy and richer in color outside of the pictures. I'll have more pictures in another month after i get some drag A arms and directdrive spindle mount wheels on the bike.

My bike is a sand drag only bike. I droped the front end with a set of new 300ex shocks along with some 19x6x10 sand stars. The front A arms are perfectly flat now so I got the front dialed in and it is low haha. Now for the rear I have a no link stellar +10 swing arm and a adjustable strut in the rear. On concrete the swingarm is flat with the frame by using a level. It is low all around like a asphalt bike and I was thinking of raising the back up some to give it more rake but that would change the angle of the swingarm. What am I looking for? The sand I race on is not always flat and groomed.

I'm pulling the axle and carrier out of my +8 fireball swingarm and switching it over to my new stellar +10 swingarm. Can I push the carrier out of the fireball housing with the axle installed together or do I have to pull the axle then push out the carrier? The axle nut on the axle gave me hell last time but I had to pull the axle because the fireball was already setup with a new carrier.

Jsn210,small world! That is one of my spots besides caswell's. This is good to know

Thanks but I like real world feedback also.

I ordered a +10 chrome stellar swinger and I'm going to add there +3 forward A arms and run 22x11x8 14 paddle extremes. That should be a killer sand drag setup.