camatv

build a bigger motor. drag atv's suspension, clutch, frame, and overall setup is going to be WAYYYYYYYYYYYY differnt than a TT or mx or flat track atv. from my mx atv days. use air pressure to help with your starts. use body english and learn to not SIT on the seat on the launch or the tanks try to hold yourself up on the pegs and just barely touch the tank or the front of the seat. use the clutch lever to control your power to the ground also think in your head of a ski jumper flying off a jump and how they lean up into the wind. you want to try and do this kind of stance it seems funky and no i dont mean to ly all the way over the front of the atv just think of it like this. use your knees to grip the sides of the tank and hold on when you are acceperating and even during the race try to make the bike push you through your legs instead of you holding on with your arms try to envision yourself as if your weight is in your footpegs instead of the seat or the bars your center of gravity will be where the most weight is. ... again hard to explain and also practice practice practice.. that alone will make your starts much more consistant and will absolutley result in better holeshot and performance overall. also if there is a class where you run at go watch the pro motorcycle guys you will see this lean forward stance a lot in their racing. its part of mx riding training.. i raced an atv for over years. it was a lot of fun and i think helped me in the drag area i am in now. most drag strips are preped to have maximum traciont ounlike atv/mx launch area that are mostly crap and have horrible traction or varying traction in differnt area's.. most of the tracks when i was racing were either tilled up so hardcore they were like racing over boulders OR so hard packed adn dry it was like trying to race in wet grass.. if you have riding and launching habits that are bad its going to be very hard to break them without practice. if you can next time you practie ride JUST work on starts for a few hours give the bike and clutch some cool down time but work on the starts a lot try differnt things and USE your clutch to control your wheelies. yes it is faster.

my first "drag" bike was a 1988 j-arm old paul turner national woods racer. i still have it and raced it all t he time with the +1 1/2 wide +2 forward woods j-arms. someday it will hit the sand again!

i have a wampus i'm doing right now its a neato cylinder. a good eye will be able to tell they are not stock pretty easily. the supercub isnt to bad but has had issues in the past with head sealing. the bore and the sealing surface from using the screwed up bolt pattern of the banshee kinda makes them a tad weak. there are heads available that are beefed up in the front areas to help with o-ring seal. in my humble opinion go with a 68mm bore and 10mill crank if your wanting to use the cub casting. the wompus or cub look is your choice...

feeel frarre two schoolde heem wreely badely! LOL lmfao sxt

ha ha good choice... make sure your ignition and rest of the motor is 100%. check resistances on the plug caps, thoguh the coil itself and even do ground drops to ensure all your grounds are solid. make sure you have a strong ( preferably stock oem) stator and the pulse is spaced correctly and your flywheel isnt damaged at all.... just a few things to check.. i have ran stock banshee carbs on 421 cubs' the usual mains i end up with were 410-430's... i have ran down to 145's on similar builds with 35mm pwk's/. the larger motor will like the 39's better tho..

welp then start a topic and lets talk about it! screw this thread! since all the "builders" want to keep dome desing HUSH HUSH phhhhh maybe some of us home brew dudes can see whats up

welp i found a 68mm bore stock stroke t-rex. i think its as cast and holy hell i can see now why out of the box they run like crap,. this cylinder has one of the worst mis match casting to sleeve's i have ever seen. BUT they do have a ton of potential. with porting and some internal work i think its going to run great. unlike a cub i personally feel if you can get a rex to run good it shows you can actually port and not just assemble a motor. now on to trying to find or build the larger sleeve, get the sides welded up so i can have some transfer volume and source a set of pistons that might actually work. ( maybe DM 77mm? or the 76mm TDR has?) the other thing i am noticing with this cylinder is the thickness and build of the head. in my OPINION it has a superior clamping surface and would handle some boost or NOS pretty well... hopefully i can also source a set of wider pv blades to make the bigger bore work right... i feel if you look around you can buy one pretty dang cheap BUT if you cannot do the work yourself you are probably going to have a lot in one when its ready to go.. also seems the pistons are getting scarce. if the sleeve was a little bit differnt i think a set of h-2's or cheetah/ cub pistons would work just fine. little bit of dome reworking and wala you have a decent top end. ultimatly i think a set of alluminum sleeve's and nickplating would be the best on one of these. but then your talking a lot of $$$$$

pasi something is wrong in your alignment of the front end. it should not have an issue. i have ran skinny rear drag axle's with +2 a-arms in the past on 2 differnt bikes.

oh boy

i dint click those links. the only place i know for sure that does actual atv crankshaft balancing is crankworks. you have to send your pistons etc with the crank and they can do it .. if you want to do this give them a call.. a "true and weld" is a little differnt its not a balanced crank just setup so it turns true in the straight line bore. that is its not out of line across the center. most " hotrods" are setup to within factory spec or less. in my personall experience the better the true is the better it will run i usually shoot for .0005 or less that takes a long time to do and a lot of patience. there is also "phasing" that is the relationship of degree's the 2 sides are at. a 0 phase or 180 d phase is perfect any more and the timing can get all out of line and cause all kinds of issues.. i have seen a lot of crank out of phase especially if they were not welded inside OR have been rebuilt and had issues when going back together. its something not looked at very often. you can even have the cranks "pinned" thats where they are pperfect phased then a pin is cut into the webs to help they stay in true. its a great idear to do as much as you can with a GOOD quality crank if your serious about building a good drag motor. a well built crankshaft will go a long way. cheapo cranks and cheapo assembly will result in all kind of problems and issues..

the trans i do shifts fine with a full driveline HD clutch and a 9 plate nmotion basket in the ole wife's 350cc alky bike... its around 90hp no problem.. i have seen a LOT of other modified transmission's shift like do do...

if your pro friend knows they fit then he should know what to use? maybe even know what the numbers are for the interchange.. i HIGHLY doubt your going to find anyone that knows what the same size holly jet is that the minkuni is... plus jets are really really cheap i feel. i mean 2-4 bucks??

seems the cast ones are going to be right in line with the cost of other carbs. if these work well they will definatley be giving other carbs a run for their money.

take pics!

pretty much all the modern" ( 1960- 1980's ) DOME shapes suck. what little "programs" i have seen and used cannot be setup to have a "decent" dome shape. mostly be cause they are all based off of those books results using low hp low tq engines. you can have parameters all over the place and the MSV can be the same... i'd love to see a factory involvement in multiple shapes and differnt desins using multiple angles and different radius edge's.... just my opinion. i have "stubled" upon a shape i have never seen that seems to be working amazingly well.. but it's "numbers" and shape profile would result in all kinds of bullshit.. so i'll just keep them to myself.. and the wording "pre-ignition" had me wondering what the heck was going on also...

you dont have to have it "drag ported" ic cna be ported to suite your style of riding also. the carbs should fit just fine. might bang into the pipes on the carb tops but that mostly depends on the intakes you use. a lockup is not totally necessary. check out the HD clutch kit from driveline performance. it has stiffer springs and if its too stiff then work out your clutch grabbin arm.... using any stock springs at all will result in mostlikely a slippy and burnt up clutch.. make sure you get a good billet clutch basket and if necessary replace the clutch boss and preessure plate to have nice new surfaces for your better clutch to work with.

unless you actually fix the real problem they will never shift worth a crap. untill you get the entire trans out and fix whatever is wrong with it and get it to factory specs THEN modifiy it so that it actually works ( what i call a stock modified transmission) it will never work for crap.' also making sure al the gears have the bushings int he right spots and not dragging. the shafts themselves dont have wear and are not causing a drag. all these things i have seen over and over and after being fixed and modified the banshee trans actually works quite well. higher HP and harder riding make these issues worse. the problem you are describing sounds more like a stuck shift shaft. the end of the pawl turns sideways and they will stick on the end of the star. then they will shift up one gear and down one gear. stuck in 2 gears basically. to fix this its best to replace the shift shaft, adjustment stud and adjustment spring. sometimes it damages the shift star also.

i have been able to get lectrons tuned in excellent with packards recomended needles and they hold their tune better than any other carb i have tried.... i also sold all my kehiens and mikiuni's i have and just keep the jets for ones i have to work on. the ones i have ran on pump gas worked flawless.. i looked more into these carbs and am now dead set on trying a single 40mm on a certain motor combonation i am working on. the design, and i feel therories behind these are going to make some big changes... if they can get a set of the cast ones down to about 600 a pair i think that will be very resonable considering you wont need anything else jet wise..

direct injection is already produsing 2 strokes that have lower emmisions than 4 stroke motors. the 2 stroke is a highly effecient design .. if it wasnt it would have been droped years ago. turbocharged snomobiles are producing massive amounts of hp out of small cc motors... and that not a highly funded development. evenrude uses idrect injectino 2 stroke outboards to this day that are easily out performing 4 strokes in fuel useage, hp , weight, and emissions.. to me this looks like a billet lectron. lectrons are not anywhere close to as weather finiky as std carbs. this looks like a cool idear tho. but not mch in how they achevied the results... nice idear tho. maybe if they cast them and/ or sold more they will get more popular. love to try a set ona drag bike with alky. better mileage would be excellent. the DMR powerjet is also a better atomization principle and the set of carbs i use with one of these in it are much more sensitive to changes in the powerjet settings. they also seem to use much less fuel to make similar power. i'm sure this is a similar concept..

tree + come-a-long or big pipe "adjust" till tank pops back in and plastic lines back up

535 cheetah.. BUT the 10 cub seems to run good both will need port work to run well. as well as dome setup and overall engine package to run right. pump gas or race fuel.. if you cruise around alot id say set it up for pump gas. recently went back to pump gas on my rider bike i like it a lot more now. less fuel used and still runs great. had to switch out domes to work with the pump gas. timing setup and rest of bike stayed the same...

i have an outlaw LSR bike i'd sell. the pro-trax front end was a differnt design than the lsr.

drag pipes work on any motor.. but they are best for "drag racing" unless you have trinity same side small pipes. they actually run just like some inframe trail pipes.

this post is retarded. you have one hell of a motor to be still running. wide open on fire roads. and 10 years old on top of that..

fart