camatv

stock modified transmission is best.. the wirring sound was probably a bearing locking up or your clutch basket bushing locking up. either way you probably have some damage to a few gears or at least a shaft.. you will know more after you split the motor or even after just removing the clutch cover. do that first and see if there is something external you can fix.. other than that a full inspection to the motor is a good idear. unless its brand new there are probably a lot of parts internally that are worn or worn out. i'd suggest the crank true and weld and also a better clutch basket and if it still has it at least an aftermarket clutch. from there out you just need to see what you have in there. dont use atf in it , and check your oil regularly change it every few rides also.

i think its in the repair manual. there is not much weight difference. about 10lbs or less?

jenn switched to days and will be able to make it with me if you schedule on the weekends i have off. this one i was working so couldnt go ( sad face) first couple races it was blazin hot out looks like from here till spring it'll be freezin HA

for 1800 i wouldnt expect to pick up a prefect banshee with absolutely no problems.. or even one that is "unmolested",.. i'd say find onw in that range with as much bolt on upgrades you can get. then expect a complete rebuild on it. then if it dosent need much you will be suprised.. i dont really understand why peeps want a bone stocker that "they can build" its easy to change colors on parts and plastic..

send me the domes.. if your just going to trash themm

might have a case seal bad or crank seal shot. if it has a TON of oil in it the rings havent seated yet.. do a leak down test and go from there.

i have bunch of stock carb bodies i'd sell. i can check the alignment pins before they go out. if you feel comfortable switching everything over to them id do a set for 45 shipped USA

wait till it warms up..

nobody wants to keep tabs on their stuff?? guess the china built junk that costs the same is better

just by my outlaw and be done with it.

hey robert swing through and pick me up!

whats bad is the newer ball joints with the correct spindle stud cost the same if not less than the mazda truck tie rods.... hmmmm i'd also say maybe you got the wrong ball joints or something.. who knows.

if everything is actually right you shouldnt have a problem. sooo you have a problem.. DONT use just any and every o-ring you can get your hands on. use VITON. jet it so rich and back all your timing out of it and see if that helps. if your squish is around .45 its to tight! run more like .50+ if you want it to live. then next time you have it off check the head AND cylinder for warp. make sure you have good studs on it and your fuel/ oil mix is right... i agree you shouldnt need a dyno to fix this issue. might see what the motor is capable of timing/ tuning wise that day in those conditions with a dyno..

come get me i'll go LOVE that place... better have your frame fixed if your going to run a half mile +

get a correctly built swingarm..

my wife's stock bore/ stroke 350cc banshee with full weight frame, steel axle, +2 a-arms and fully sprung shocks ran a 4.5 on a sand/ dirt track. witha 290lb rider.. id like to see a well built turbo modern direct injection 2 stroke snomo motor in a drag chassis....

hot lap my 535 all the damn time it runs in the 150 -170 degree range.. yes on alky. all you guys "scared" of anything more than that are just wuuuuuusssss

thats what i listen to in the gerrage when i work on these things... umm lots of wheelies and dudes hangin off the sides of bikes.. i see that everytime i go to the local spot. bet it took a while to make the vid tho. yee ha...

call sudco ask them for a differnt body? i have had pwk's like that in the very long time ago past. also had both fuel lines inside so no pipe rubbing on fuel lines.

on gas with a ton of timing they are going to not like that much at all. unless the dome has about 70 tho clearance and you are only riding it down hill.. or have about 18 bucks a gallon fuel.. its just basic tuning here. if anyone says this exactilly set up / jetting/ tiiming is THE ticket for the motor they could be very wrong... play with the jetting, get a couple differnt needles ( needle all the way one way or the other is pointing at a wrong pilot or main...) i can say this my 10 mill and the 4 mill dont like the same timing. i know why but thats a whole nother subject.. i settled on timing nubmers after playing with them for an afternoon out on the dunes.. alky will handle a LOT more timing also.. gas dosnet like it as much gas burns much faster internally and that dictates the timing differneces. as well as stroke and other factors.. i personally liked both pipes on the motor. smalls reved a lil better and with the PV's installed and working like they should you dont need a really strong mid or bottom end pipe. the BB shears i ran i personally liked more in the trails but that was on alky and with internal changes that made it a beast right off idle.. and that setup most people couldnt handle in the trails. heck eventually i didnt even like it that much.. i went back to pump gas in my "trail" bike now and like it a lot more..

you might get lucky and get it all out but to me i'd just split it. that bolt and a lefty drill bit you MIGHT get it out sometimes those get locktighted in and take a lil massagin. if its really in there heat it up some and let the locktight work its way out. you can also clean off the top and just screw it in and out the other side if the case is split.

you better pull the motor all the way out and clean it completely. i'm sure there are lil pieces of metal crap in the trans no matter how much you" flush it" better just yank it now.

i have 4 differnt egt's for sale. banshee 2 screen 52 series. 2 egt water temp tach full data logg no batteries uses capaciter recharge internal charges as bike runs very reliable 275 3 screen has 2 egt tach and temps i think. dont have a lot of sensors for this one 225 4 screen data logg 2 egt 2 temp and tach, mph if i rember. also has track trigger and uses batteries i also have a smart beacon if you want this was on a circle track car 375 with beacon 4 screen 34 series. has oil pressure, coolant temps and rpm etc. this is perfect for a sxs was on a mini sprint. 375.00 perfect for SXS polaris razr ranger teryx rhino etc all work all in decent shape i can bring any of them to the HQ ride in a week or so. pics here http://wichita.craigslist.org/mcy/3287286572.html

i have one...

easy fix stop screwing around and just by my LSR outlaw.. 421 stocker cylinder with 55ftlbs of tq, 80 hp, and uses modified 250r chassis geometry. and dosent look like a crappy conversion either. have the banshee power, tq of a big bore motor, and handling + of a 250r. done