camatv

becareful with aftermarket seals. some of the crank seals are getting cheap ass they dont have the hard high rpm seal area and the cranks are eating them up. if the seal lips where it contacts the crank areas is soft rubber dont install them there should be a section of harder material right there for the rpm/ OEM crank seals are the bestest. and not all that pricey either.

sheet

just CC a stock head.. then YOU know for sure. they vary some..

< speechless..

who do you think paid for that "other guy's" race trailer?? this weight thing is pretty crap. now taking as stated the same rod and "lightening it" can do a few things.... hot rods rods are nicer than any of the other's in these pics. junk chinese knockoff's of OEM rods. i think i have a few stocker 110 rods off yamaha cranks out there. want me to measure them on my crack scale?

ok like i have said about 900 times you have to do everything to the trans to get it to work right. you cannot JUST do the shift star or JUST do the shaft , or JUST do the gears's dogs. just like anything else one wrong thing and it wont work. also need to fully inspect the trans and gears for any abnormal wear. yes they wear out. there are a few other lil tricks you can do involving aligning the gear's bushings and/or adding bearing to existing bushed gears. a 1-6 N down trail trans is completely doable. i am also working on a true backloadable trail/ drag trans but am unsure if my idears will even work. just something i need to get done and start testing on. its on my winter list of things to develop.. most problems i have seen were from gear wobble, misaligned bushings causing drag and gear out of alignments from wear on serviceabl;e parts. clutch adjustments' clutch drag, and clutch lockups also have a lot to do with ease of shifting. it sounds to me like you just need to split it apart and do the gears and you should be good to go. if it still wont shift time to change your riding style or look at the clutch..

lectron.. then 28 pwk''s are a fun goof off carb.

fucggum run the outty's!

take the time to shave off all the bullshit your not going to use. decided FOR SURE what color powder you want and dont be afraid to look at specialty colors.. a black/chrome, clear silver flake to me would be bad ass on those yellow plastics OR even a yellow/ clear flake. or solid black with yellow flake... the flakes in powder can be really suttle and look excellent. not sure if there is a translucent yellow or candy yellow but chrome/ candy yellow would be bad ass too.. those would be 2 stage powder's one of my pet peeve's is seeing nice fresh powdercoat with big brackets and tabs and such all hangin out with nothing on it. it dosent take that much time and to me shows you care about it more...

sent PM also wanted to add if your even thinking of building a RZ banshee this setup is as complete as they get. its a great deal with all the electroncis that are updated. with that controller you can adjust how and when the PV's open according to RPM and that makes a HUGE difference in the way the power comes on. i think you can also add a TPS to it and it will run the pv's according to load and rpm inputs. the cylinders have a nice port job on them nothing to crazy. if i had more time i would consider buying all this and just playing around with the set up.

be awesome to get more bikes out there. last few races were fun i'll try and be there. not sure if i will have anything fast at all but hey if it starts it will race HA

FAIL go to hardware store and get a chart... done

those carbs use differnt jets than a mikuni. if you dont know that might try a shop for help with that.. id start 40/155 and go from there

triple x for me!

well uhhh hmmmm

cheetah castings have a far better head design and shape ( the shell) it is far superior to the OEM banshee cub ass clamp set up. proper domes are key. if i had that motor from 2008 or whatever i'd strip it down completely and redo it entirely. at least re lube everything and update a few things if it needs it. then go over the head and port specs along with crank specs ?trueness and piston to wall clearance. if all that is ok. i'd adapt a newer designed head shape to the domes and run it. a 421 cheetah is a beast of a motor IF it is set up correct. IF done right they have the capacity to out pull a cub out of the hole AND overrev harder with more hp support up top. again IF done right. no matter what calvin hit it on the head with that particular engine design. ( in my opinion) its just a shame they have run out of popularity so bad.

seems like a popular thing these days..

its good to clean off to metal the coil adn all other grounds on the frame. also chase ALL the threads becore you put it back together. i use plugs in the holes to try adn help with that. mostly the heating causes some issues with the threads also. i charge 250-350 depending on prep i have to do and color choices. those flop colors are bad ass! you can also layer colors as long as they are a translucent, clear flake or candy type. dual layering solids is a waste of time.

t-6 with proper porting/ head combo is a beast trail motor.

didnt read the whole thread but i'll say never had any issues with chariot at all. i always felt they make a great product and unlike a bunch of other product makers are willing to make changes for the better if something is found to be an issue. great service and i recomend them quite often for parts on bikes i work on... ( because i am NOT a dealer) seems its getting popular to bash..

dome shape, riding style. length of runs, how rich its ran, weight of bike/rider, all have factors in squish. i have personally ran anywhere from 40 to 65 clerance on motors. most larger cc longer stroke engines i have done seem to like in the range for 50-55 ish on a drag bike... but thats me. i check it all assembled witht he base gasket you plan to use everythign tq'd to where its going to be at, the actual pistons that are going to be used. 2 pieces of soder plaed across the pin and spin it around. remover measure it also can show the angle if there is one and what it is. also run across the other direction ( front to back) and you can kinda get an overall idear.. other thing you can do is clay it if you really want to. or make a mold..

oem stock studs on cubs wont work on any head really. last few i have made my own studs for the cub cylinder's. or you can go the cheap route and lock tight them hangin half way out the cylinders. it works. i just dont do it. the arp studs are nice but they are a lower grade stainless exhaust stud for ricer's... never stretched any that i have seen tho

lets see the vids!! the oem yfz rear swingarm guide is a total joke there is one built into the stock skid plate i believe. i think i had seen where tm maybe has an actual bolt on real chain guide for the stocker swingger.

NGK caps are great.

your right i'm done with this thread. you have some kind of wacko personal vendeta against me for absolutely no reason at all>?> i've said what i needed to say. all i have to say is i stand behind my work 100%. i do these in a timely fashion just like everything else i try to accomplish. i"m honest in my repairs and how i live my lilfe. yea i run my hobby shop in the garage at my house. i also have a seperate job for the day to day needs like every one else. for those that want to copy my work and use it to make money off of sorry. your going to have to at least pay me to get one for an example.. do it like everyone else has done. god knows there are PLENTY of shops out there that all they do is imitate.