camatv

dont be cheap with it.. thats the best thing to do.

i took off a set of 34's adn installed 35pwk's the low end came up nicely and were much easier to tune

it will feel weird untill you retrain your self.. i used these video's a lot back in the days we had them on vhs. some of the info you cannot really do on an atv. but for big leaps in your riding skill's they can teach you a shit ton. if you watch some of them or find them you can use what you can for atv riding. i always liked the therories behind this style of riding mcgrath was one of the first to utilize these techniques for maximixing tire to ground time to make you way faster in mx/ supercross racing.. some of these types of video's i have found at local libraries most were the first volume. almost all the techniques are the same just old ass bikes and 80's neon gear he he... there is a video on starting techniques and clutch control.

the R>E> pipes are pretty heavy top end pipe. that nice flat pull when they come on is what i noticed also. with a pv set up pulling up the front edge of the curve the motor is very very linear. i personally didnt like them as much on a smaller cc cub but the pv motors and i bet larger cc motors like the 10's that make more tq natually would love these pipes.. those sucka's are peaking at over 11.5 rpm... they come on hard way before that. i dont see a blip of peak at 100+hp over a 5 rpm range like a lot of other builds. nice..

lil differnt port work and it would have screamed on top too.... the cub and cheetah have nearly identical base's as well as internal port number's.. both should interchange without much work possibly some case matching and filling in if needed.. there is that the answer your looking for?

get a new/ used OEM one. also the athena's port timings are retarded high for a "rider" bike. the only one i have been around was a bitch to tune also. i didnt assemble the motor just tried to get SOME low end middle rang e power out of it. wasnt good to great by any means. but screamed on top. the best jetting i had found was total crap one clip positions off.. they were that sensitive. its possible that a bad assembly or huge mis matches internally ( porting wise) were also contributing to the lack of low end. stock banshee's actually make pretty decent power compared to other "stock" atv's..

10mm trex, superior sleeve or vito's...... get the biggest you can afford then budget about 3 times the cost of the motor to keep it all together and pay for the frame you will need...

looks like possible head gasket leakage (coolant bypass = deto~!) and that can cause the ring land to cook out. squish i would set more like .50-.60 low 60's will run for ever.. cub's / servals like higher squish clearance for rider bikes as well as most drag setups. .048 is as tight as i would go IF it was on alky AND the rest of the motor was 100%... if its a stock stock head. might also have sharp edges that got hot and caused deto to rear up also. the head gasket needs to be NEW NEW NEW NEVER reuse an old OEM head gasket. tq the right way and make sure your squish is loose all the way across the band. you do that and the motor will run for years. ( if the rest is in good shape) i have a stack of 421 cub pistons that i "tested" clearances when these things came out ( cub).. my trail 421 is at .65 tho... pump gas. custom dome runs excellent. you DONT need tight squish clearance to create compression.... its much better to get it in the domes desing instead of milled stock head...

i have ran 39's on stockers.... i like the oem carbs or 28/30pwk's over the 34 pj/./. but thats just me.. i believe the rd's were also points? some of them at least..

im sure it is.. wow that cylinder could use a LOT of work!! hell i'd boost port them! looks like fun. the triples are pretty small and the rest is pretty basic porting internally i'd say. get some deck down measurements an i can run the numbers for you. need to know crank and rod length deck height etc..

and then down to kansas to get me !

hahahaha thats awesome!

i have a haynes manual. i write all kinds of info in it to help "remind" me. the factory manuals are great for specs n sctuff..

i dont understand yoru question if i read your Q right you say you have a 4 mill long rod init and want to know how to get a 4 mill long rod in your motor?? i'm going to GUESS that you have a long rod ( 115mm) stock stroke crankshaft ( 350cc) and a big bore 68mm stock cylinder motor.. to do a 4 mill stroker you would need to have the porting check'd by someone that knows how to do this and then have the domes set up for the stroke. a spacer plate makes the transfers all crazy and the motor will be a top end only engine if that. correct domes are the best way to go and the only way i build them.

my wife's 350cc with t-5's did a solid 65hp on gigots dyno years ago when it was still a pump gasser.... it was a pretty simple build i felt.. fmf fattys arent to bad. if you want more ZING on top get shear. if you want a middle range top end'r look at cpi. both have issues. i'd say even consider sniper...

to me the apt is a solid theory and seems to work well. the billets look bad ass. the cast should be well within the price range of other carbs... i'm waiting on the alcohol versions OR them to just send me a set with big bowls to start working on my own needles..... i personally feel if the company dosent up and totally fail like some atv industry firsts have ( please dont screw up!@!) these COULD revolutinize the carberator....

your on the right road... jettiing is not 100% the same from motor to motor. the more you play with it the better it will get. then the temp might change and your all screwed up again.. BUT get them close and you whould be fine for a pretty wide range.. yea i dont know anyone else that knows anything about PV motors ( cough cough........(-----")

i have seen these cyls all over the place price wise. cannot rember actually ever seeing one sell. id like to build one just to say i did. it would definatley need to be setup and built by someone who knows what they are doing. if you use a spacer plate just to make everything "fit" theport timing;s maybe so far off that it will never even pull itself. "stock" porting on an aftermarket cylinder can be all over the place. only cyl i know of that's even close to OEM stock cyl port numbers is a serval. and even that cylinder has way different flow characteristics most t-rex cyls i have seen bring between 300-550. depending on how complete they are.. just as an example.... cub's are a whole differnt ball game. those are known performers that use shelf" pistons and pretty much anyone can put one together and get them to run pretty decent. in all reality the 421cc cub 4 mill is pretty much setup right out of the box. you get the domes halfway right and get it jetted in pretty close slap on some drag pipes, they are gonna run well. most aftermarket cyls are NOT that way. the prox 400cc the t-rex and most all billet cyls even the stockish looking athena, vito's cyls take a lot of real work to get them to run well.. and that is reflected in the price.. the piston that can be used, the sleve material, the overall cyl condition and not just a flashy 4 min polish job will dictate the price i feel. but it would all come down to what someone is willing to pay. i mean really does that turbo s-10 have a ebay turbo slapped on top of a bone stock 4 cyl and runs bad ass now?? i'm sure that took some time and some work with competent people that understand those...

it looses its pep.. i have had alky in a steel drum on concrete and it seemed to hold up fine. but i kept it sealed really good thats the best thing with alky is sealed from the outside. the less "air space" is in the jugg the better. i usually keep my "extra" in the 6 gallon race juggs i have. it holds up ok but when i go back with a nice new fresh drum sure can tell the difference in the way the bikes run.

how many differnt threads of the same thing do we need?

put it in gallon milk juggs and burry it in the back yard. then hope the atf dosent come hunt ya down

i have been emailing them about these carbs and askign about th ealky versions adn how they might be a nice addition to the atv drag/ riding market. if your interested in them PLEASE just send an email about them .. maybe the support shown will prove to them that there is interest in them through bansheehq along with atv industy. the biggest reason the lectrons are not as popular ( in my opinion) is the company really pushed them in the motorcycle drag classes and kinda ho hummed around the rest..

i would if someone asked. but i wont in this thread. its not about head desing i am thinking its mostly about a blaster head and the somewhat accurate description of how and what the head desing does. heck i can go get one of my 2 stroke books that anyone can buy and re type the chapter on dome design. but having an understanding and what i would call the willingness to actually TRY whats suggested in them...

to test the coil boots unscrew them off the wires ( yes they do) when they are off run ohm's meter on the screw end adn inside where they plug into the top of the spark plug. you should have about 5ohms much more than that OR if they rattle. they are bad and the resistor has broken or is cooked. also on the ends of the wires there can be rust in there where they screw on clip the wire back a tad and then lil dilelectric grease and back together. if the boots are screwed you can get NGK boots to replace them. you can also check the resistance through plugs as well. the gap on the pulse is 20-25 tho. i just put a business card inbetween the trigger adn the stub on the flywheel and tighten them down. with a wide gap the stator will give a very funky signal to the cdi and it will cut up on top bad. check both triggers on the flywheel seen some bent flywheels have problems and even one time a bent crank stub! a 65hp 421 has some big time problems... the entire setup needs looked at. could be: it has some big time ignition, pipe choice, carb choice, low on compression, wrong / bad porting , if its pv stuck valves for sure from using wrong oil in gas mix, i see this a lot actually. they wont open adn you have basically stock porting numbers on the exhaust. talk about a top end killer,, dome choice etc etc etc..

what about the transmission? i'll probably take the wheelie bar wheel too.