camatv

rebuild the motor. you can screw with all the external stuff all you want. its not going to run better.. yank it split it redo everything inside. then take the good motor, and fix everything on the outside. your comp is way to low..

how was the riding?

still here.

tim at stellar was selling the balljoints that fit stock spindle. think they are a 16mm bolt. give them a call they were int he 20-25 buck range.

dont even look anywhere else vegas jeff... did my wifes NEW seat and i wont use anyone else ever again.

oh heck run it!! take vids! if its on the net it must work!

damn dude how wide is that front end! HA looks nice. why dont you take a few minutes and look at the other threads in this topic... there is a lot of great information on HOW to do this mod both the quick and UGLY way and the oh i do have some skill and like it to like nice way.. no matter what its going to take time and effort how much effort you put in is whats going to make all the difference..

this is awesome

must be why my 87 dosent wheelie as easy.. that extra half pound in the nose.. AH HA

weekend weather has been nice. i sure hope so!

if your looking on the cheap. try a stocker modified. if you cannto find one let me know i MIGHT sell my DMR bullet. its full suspended. 6 out front 12 out rear

might try that hmm.. you can also buy new pipes. usually the carbon is built up a lot at the opening from the flange from all the mis match turbulence.. and sometimes at the silencers tubes inside. repacking can take care of that with a wire wheel on a bench grinder.. if you have a heavy buildup inside the pipes your jetted way to rich or using a shitty oil that is not burning off right.. castrol 927 does this and yamapube does this bad also.

wow i re read some of that post on planetsand. that was LONG time ago. you did realize that started life in 2002 as far as a topic. its 10+ years old now.. still relevant but at least there are some really good minds contributing to that post. i only read a few pages and brought back a lot of memories... its really sad there is just not the same kind of conversations going on today.. to hard to separate the people that might know the people that should know and the people that are full of shit these days.. i love that comercial with the chick who believe's that anything on the net has to be true no matter what. ( she read that on the net rember!)

i launch my 421 stocker motor in 3rd and just start slappin gears till it stops spinning

oh lord. the lowerend cranking compression on almost all motors that are "normal" is not going to be so affected by miniscule rod damage or other issues .. so i actually agree with spurd on this one. so what. 350cc 4mill most 10's etc etc are not going to be adversly affect by crank compression as som HUGE cc motor on a tiny lowerend OR a tinny cc motro in a HUGE lowerend case area. like your 350cc in 10 stroke set up. how much CC did you loose running that 350cc crank in a trenched case vs the loss in cc intake of the motor's lowerend charge.. that was significant. yea i can see how it sucked. in those situations i would start looking at low end comp. i cannot think of anyone or heard of anyone running a comp gage on their transfer ports to measure lowend comp. although it has been done. if you actually knew what the cranks looked like back when blair or jennings or whatever was looking at or even read more than just a few pages in those books you would realize why it was such a huge issue back in the early 70"s YES 70"s and why it was talked about. also in those books there is a lot of talk about how it is not AS important now that the factory had redesigned the crank webbs to take up space adn increase the bottom end cranking compression. unless you are building some crazy wacko engine and have had issues with it running well then ccr is not as important as it may seem. OR building on a set of cases some HUGE engine they were not designed to handle as the cp cylinders seem to do o so often. this of COURSE is just my opinion. to ME in my opinion if you are overly concer'd about cranking comp you should also have titanium rods for reasons the GP bikes had them.... along with flywheel weights.... and stop complaining about howmuch a ( fill in the high quality part ) costs. only thing post's like this can do is start about 90 uneeded posts asking about cranking compression.. and if their 350cc needs the cases stuffed or the transfers filled back in.... stuffers are cool. though.. not saying i dont use them in certain spots.... or in other words..

have you consider'd a LSR shark chasis? yea they look weird but to me its a bad ass...

i have a 421 stocker cyl in my trail bike. its fun no its not as EASY as a cub yes then can run with some but better be a bad ass cyl....

are those the ones using studded hyme joints? like the ultra light schtuff?

good lord 200+ must be a light ass rider adn chassis set up!!! i have a stock cylinder 421 ( 68mm bore 4 mill stroke crank) its not a "drag bike" by any means but it runs very well. lots of tq on it BUT as stated its a HUGE combonation of correct domes, reeds, correct porting, crank true, piston balance, ignition tweaks, etc etc etc that got it to that point.. my wife's 350cc has spanked a bunch of 4 mills in its limited exsistance. most of that is from massive porting and lots of tuning and motor set up. along with a chassis it dosent overpower and is easy to ride. in my opinion thats one of the biggest things i see screwed up on smaller builds. jsut chassis that cannot handle the hp or cannot put it to the ground..

egt temp's 950-1050. thats after a long full run. (300FT +) and the probes in tHe correct place. and everythign else working like it should. when i ran the egt i would tweak till after a few runs around on the strip i'd be in the 950ish range. then if needed usually if i bumped it to 1050 it would gain about a half bike length. on the dyno this was worth about 2-4hp.. but that was a long time ago.. pig rich dosent do anything but waste alky and make your motor crappy. ( unless your setup cannot handle any heat in the motor due to extreme tight tolerances) i also FEEL that a motor tuned corectly launches much stronger and will pull up into the pipes much stronger also. plus they seem much less likeley to bog or have undershift issues.

yes its possible. big HP number's AND rideablilty are easily dooable with a PV motor.. IF its built right.. and thats a BIG if.. i run a 535 cheetah and a 485 cheeta both PV motors and after setting them up to what i felt was right. they will pull my 290lb ass right out the hole. and run like no other.. at the HQ ride i rember out launching pretty much any bike there. and i'm one fat ass. kearns t-rex i feel there is more in it and some more chassis tunning and some work with the pv's to make them actually do what they were designed to do is going to make some big changes.. i am personally thinking of trying to find a stock stroke t-rex casting and resleeve it to a very large bore. like 76mm or possibly bigger.. just curious.... cub's can make big HP numbers but to do that you have to narrow the Powerband up SOO much they will never pull themselves worth a crap. OR be soo pipey that if you miss a shift or eat a few cheese burgers they will be boooogggggomatics

single a-arm chassis built RIGHT (LSR) will handle whoops and all kinds of bullshit IF you know how to ride it. i have a dual a-arm chassis as well and it is much more comfortable. the overall geometry of a chassis is going to affect it so much its hard to describe. over the years i have seen a LOT of junky ass crap chassis with horrible geometry absolutely fail in my opinion. they wont launch to save their lives look like stockers when they do ( wheelie and not hook right) OR they twitch like a mofo at any speed. thats more unsafe than any LSR (or corectly built) single arm chassis could be.. i have had both my chassis up for sale with no real interst in them seen people buy other chassis and watch them reck them or flop all over the place in the whoops.. best advice do your research befofe deciding what to go with.

welcome..

dang that an awesome vid!! i have a +4 show chrome LSR hd swingarm... and i live in kansas..

yes. take the silencers off and make some tubes. it will be so anoying ly loud you are for sure going to piss people off.. you could repack them kinda loose and they may have a deeper sound