camatv

sweet. it really is worth it to take a little more time and try to make these look good. can't wait to hear a race report" also ha ha

sweet! what motor did you go with? twister? la-sleeve? kinda hard to tell (kinda) throw up some more pictures! always nice to see one built with a little care.

they are sapposed to help with top end power quite a bit by straightening the fuel delivery up, and shortening the fuel tract.. the floats, needle and seat are at an angle so the floats sit level.

i seriously hope you cleaned that bottom end up and took care of the rust issues.....

yamabond.

nitro to climb hils huh....

then all you oregoneon's need to make the HQ trip THE ride to go to. at least if it ever stops raining...

only spot i have ever been able to rev out 5th gear on my 535.. hell yea!

the logger i am going to use runs about 500-600 bucks.. used if you can find the right one is a lil cheaper. the setup/ build is very important will graph clutch to rpm seems the best way to see what the clutch is actually doing..... then as changes are made the results can be easily seen instead of guessed based of time. of cource this is just me.. and i'm a complete newb to clutch tuning. in the past i used my weight and tire size, pressure to control wheel spin.. in my humble opinion i feel the transmissions should be ditched all together and just a slipper used....

someone buy my outlaw so i can get this sucka

told ya runn em!!

i love watching the vids bobby takes of that place. you guys dont know how lucky you are to have a spot like that. its bad ass. probably some of the most fun i have ever had racing there.

ss and 421's are efficent motors' also seems the gearing was way off also. seems to me at least the bike was all out of gear in way into overrev last bit of the track... that can also lead to a very fast holeshot.. ( with low tq)

im itchin to rip my arms out.

either casting can make nice power if your shooting for more drag oreintated you should start with a cub. if for more rideable ( depending on your description of "rideable") shoot for a PORTED serval. most as cast servals left banshee owners somethign to be desired. i felt they did what they were meant to do adn deliverd lower port timings to make a "builder" have to work for a good running motor.. cubs you can go in there and fart around with a file and build the motor half ass right, run it on alcohol, buy "drag parts" and blamo you got a decent drag mill.

10 72 bore will make nice tq if built right. should be a really fun bike. just cause it makes 110hp dosent mean you have to ride it wfo all the time!! the added tq will let you motor your way around. instead of a bog from 20ft lbs of tq it will just burrrrr up anything like 4 pokes but still have that BRAPP that banshee's have. looks like a great build to me! sweet deal on that swingarm!! my old "goof off" dunner had a +6 and a 485 cheetah. it was a blast in the trails and crusing around.. didnt have to wing it out all over the place. let me know when your ready for a trans i'll hook you up!

stealth jugs? to go t0 72 would require a top case bore to fit the sleeve. if the bolt pattern on the cylinder is oem banshee the studs will be to close together to get a good head seal.. if the cylinders are in good shape now might be some other work to get them to have more bottom end. specific porting and dome setup might help. just have to find out where the ports are at now. if youstart playing with rod, and deck hight combo's you have to be careful with the head to piston clearances also.

borrow a tester from oreillys and try again. 60psi it wouldnt even start from kicking it...

cast lasts longer as long as piston to wall clearance is good and tight. fordged last longer for higher rpm motors and motors that are stressed more... you could look at it like one is harder but more prone to breakage due to the hardness the other is softer but more resilent to abuse and bad macnine clearances.. i have seen OEM cast pistons last for 6 years.....

it wont shift to 5th and 6th? might be something jammed inside but usually when that happens its completely screwed... pull the clutch cover off and see if anything external to the trans is jacked up. if not plan on yanking it out.

im hangin out with michigan this whole trip... what cal's not going !!!! what the hell. i will be sending him some text's to motivate him a lil bit!

just buy a billet basket already!!!! that plate/ cusion setup from matton was a suggestion of mine to update the lesser quality billet baskets out there. i have installed that setup on hinsons barrnets and the incrediby weak wiseco setups. the stock plate is VERY VERY hard and ridgid for a reason. some of the aftermarkets i have seen use ALLUMINUM what the hell

ngk caps.... forgot the part number also....

the banshee transmsiion has a couple of problems when you start to get higher than 45hp. the added stress makes the gears bang into its self along with some bad design flaws in the actual shifting mecanisim. the more modern ratchet shift designs of more modern atv's/ dirt bikes along with more modern dog engagement designs have solved a lot of that. realignment, cable changes, oil changes etc are just basic maintenance. if you want to solve the real problems unfortunately you have to remove the trans from the cases... welp what about us 40year old technology banshee owners?? please PM me if you would like more information on the modifications i do. after the mods the stock trans seems to shift well under power up to and around 100-110 hp.

the plug patches work great also