YFZ350kid
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About YFZ350kid
- Birthday 08/06/1987
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Location
Henderson, NV
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My Banshee (optional)
1997 Shee w/ alba red scalloped graphics on black plastics, pro design coolhead 21cc domes, fmf fatties and power core 2 silencers, timing plate set at +5. alternate= 2008 yamaha Raptor 700, pc3, no lid, k&N, two brothers slip on pipe.
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Did you get all of the chunks of waterpump gear out? Sounds like you have some plastic on the gears jamming it.
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I've posted a couple times over the past 3 years that i was getting the banshee back together, well. Finally got the motor done, now just gotta get it back in frame and do some cleaning up and shee'll be done. I'll post pics this weekend when shee's running
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Holley jets W/ Extension in stock carbs
YFZ350kid replied to YFZ350kid's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
No so much looking to save a bunch on jets, just wondered if it works because I have access to a lot of Holley jets for free... It's no biggie to buy the one I need. Just looking to find out some info. -
a friend of mine who used to do jr. Dragster and is now a pro level drag racer told me about using a jet extension and holley jets as a cheep alternative to using mikuni 4/042 type jets. has anyone done this successfully? also what size range should i look for to equal around a 230-350 mikuni size? Thanks
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I'm going to be doing a complete tear down and rebuild on my '97 Banshee. I'd like to replace the stock suspention with updated and better parts than stock but I'm not sure how price is going to work out for me at this time. my basic question is, on the frame, where are you all getting replacement bolts and hardware for all of the suspention and all associated parts? also, for those who have done a full frame refresh/rebuild, what extra parts did you change out/rebuild? Thanks for any info. for what its worth, Im in the Las Vegas, NV area.
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I will be taking the cylinders into work tomorrow to clean them and measure them, but 85-90% of the crosshatch is still in em, so i shouldnt have too much of a problem... I'll update as i take the motor farther down, gonna have to split the cases on this build, now i just gotta remember to seal the damn things up correctly, and I'll deffinately do a leak down before final install this time. lessons learned!
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and so begins the process... did a leak down test... left crank seal had a pinhole leak... and a couple very very small leaks around the case, guessing it was the case sealant i used... live and learn, just wish i learned more the first time... anyhow... heres a couple pictures, left cylinder has the hole in it. right spark plug (little rich but atleast safe) Left spark plug (bright white, little metal, not a good sign...) pulled off the coolhead, amazingly the domes are fine pistons out of the jugs
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i dont think compression matters much... if i remember correctly the right cylinder had metal on the spark plug, i'm hoping the cylinders didnt get jacked up as i sent them to a machine shop for the last rebuild... i know my jetting is a bit off, but on the rich side of the spectrum... i had 310 mains and 30 pilots, plugs were dark when ever i checked them.
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good call... ill build up somthing before i start the tear-down... i'm really hoping for somthing silly to be leaking like intake boots... i'd hate to split the cases again to replace a basically brand new seal... oh well, live and learn. i'll do my best to post pics and ask questions as my build progresses.
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well, ive decided that as much as I'd like to spend the money sending out my motor to a pro for a rebuild, i think ill give it another go in house... im just tired of the 'ole girl sitting hurt in the garage. I havent torn down the motor yet as it blew about 2.5 years ago, i think it went lean again after a fresh build, only had 5-10 hours on the motor... anyway, are there any checks that I can do before tear down that i should try? hopefully it will just be a easy top end rebuild, but again any advice would be welcomed...
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time to get the Shee running again... again... again...
YFZ350kid replied to YFZ350kid's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
thanks for the info guys... I'll probabily start calling around to the guys at FAST, wildcard, HJR and others. thanks for the info everyone. -
Hey everyone, I'm a Henderson, Nevada local and am looking for a reputable builder hopefully locally for my 1997 banshee... I've done top-ends before with varying success... but I currently dont have the time/space available to do a re-build/re-seal on my shee. shee's been sitting in storage for 3 years now with a blown piston and i'm getting the itch to have her runnin by this coming fall. is ATV Cycle Sports (steve abbot) still the recomended place in vegas or is there somewhere better? I've had mixed feelings on Atv cycle sports for quite a while. Just looking for some suggestions... im sure FAST is still king of the shee world. help a bro out to get my girl runnin. SHEE needs some LuVin
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hmmm, that would make sense, but i dont think its the tank vent... oh well, my new (ya i went to the dark side) raptor 700 should keep my dune season alive... and ill get the shee back up when i get the time and money... still gonna pull the head today though, just to see whats up, im hoping for somthing stupid like a pinched o-ring, but im expecting the worst thanks for all the info and things to check for
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well, to answer the race gas with 21cc domes is cheep insurance, atleast i thought, to help prevent detonation and possibly help the motor run a bit cooler... again, the 310 main for the carbs was jetted fat to try to keep it together... to those of you that are in the know, could over fueling cause a similar situation to going lean in a 2 stroke? i know in 4 strokes that it would only cause a rich miss if anything generally... thanks for all the ideas... im glad this forum had constructive things to day, i posted my issues on dumontduneriders.com and got ripped up by a couple folks on there...
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0.046 and 0.044 are my squish results right after it was built i did a cylinder leakage test at 10 psi and the leakage gauge read 4-5% leakage, the last time the motor blew when i put a hole in a piston was due to a cracked intake boot, it leaned out the right side while running comp and boom, thats all shee wrote... my water pump was just changed to a pro design billet impeller and i had the guy in the radiator shop where i work go through and clean the tubes and straighten the fins for me, so im not thinking cooling system... would the crank seal take that long to show its not seated correctly, i mean it took 15 hours of running for it to go lean and i used propane to check for leaks before putting the covers back on and i got nothing around any seal or gasket... im gonna wait a while before i tear down again, i might pop the head off this weekend but im not too sure... ill keep you all informed as i go back inside the motor again thanks for all the replies and ideas

