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camatv

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Everything posted by camatv

  1. deto, lost comp means something exploded. take the head off and then remind yourself why you sold your banshee??
  2. good lord this is still a rumor huh!!! i MOTORCROSSED a j-arm bike for a few years. back then a fried of mine had a j frame also. we dunned them jumped them slamed them all over the place. they held up find mine had denton +2's and his had majic? racing +2's// never had a problem.
  3. i like the shredded also.. i dont use the "pot scrubbers" i use steel wool from an auto parts store. ipack it in pretty tight actually/... i'd guess that if it starts to come apart there is a chance that it "could" get sucked back into the engine... but kinda doubtfull you could also say that riding around in the sand with open silencer ends can suck in dirt and sand...??
  4. shitty chinese crap probably hit you. hopefully someone will listen? i'd say that the "builder" needs to cover the entire repair top to bottom escpecially since you even asked about the weak rod cranks... on the other hand could very well have been a hydrolock.
  5. dont be cheap get the good stuff the first time around.. hot rods crank for 375?? that does sound WAY cheap. last couple 4 mills i did i refer'd the cranks sales to jeff or wildcard. ( most came from jeff.) i think they were in the 425-440 range? and when they showed up they were hot rods cranks .. you could also just sell that bike and buy my outlaw. it already has a bad ass motor. best frame and best suspension around. pick it up ~ gas it up~ ride ~ done. if your just drag racing an override is the way to go. if your a trail hopper, goof off on the dunes, play drag's the modified stocker is the way to go.. if you build the motor right the first time, and keep up on the maintenance plus keep it tuned well it will run for a long time. plus instead of being at the dunes with broken stuff you will be riding and having fun. saving 100 bucks on a build to have it break after spending hundreds just to get to the dunes really SUCKS!
  6. tylers GAS dm rips out of the hole... and umm yea a large CC motor BETTER have more power everywhere. kinda hard to compare a 400cc motor to a 700-800cc motor thats 2 TIMES the displacement. should feel like a 4 cyl cub... does that bring any light to the massiveness of these engines?? seems that the alky ones are the finiky ones... not sure why.. might also look into sustained running and what kind of heat capacity the dm's have....
  7. lookin good! there are a bunch of "dormant" colors available. not sure why the green is the most popular? oh well
  8. the "fiberglass style" is all the same i think. there are a few "options" out there. one looks like shreded t-shirts its REALLY quiet.. also my favorite is coarse steel wool. most times the 4.00 sack will do 2 silencers. and it holds up way better....
  9. there is plenty of potential in a serval. the just take a real "builder" to get the power out of them.. 0h yea i rember the old days. you had to actually know a thing or 2 to have a decent motor. not jsut buy a "clean up ported" 421 CUB and all of a sudden you got WOOSH power
  10. sweet! you should scotch brite the chariot cover and get some of those machine marks out of them.. to me the "brushed alluminum" resembles more of a 50's cast look i like it..
  11. good expansion chambers make in excess of 6psi of "boost" all on their own and all basically free. in my mind to get a boosted motor do do anything right you would need a way to keep the charge in the engine by different port timings OR some type of exhaust blockage.. and then be able to boost higher than a pipe could.. of course i'm no expert on this either. but some things with timing exhaust pulses out of a twin maybe...HMM.. i'd be curious what the things are thats being done to try and control the seals blowing out?? ( yes really i do listen to your idears and comments N20) plus more boost = more power = more HEAT....
  12. from the carnage pics just looks like an old rod snapped... maybe some deto was happening at times and stressed the rod some? if you were around or in water might have sucked water up and hydro locked it also. its a clean break on the rod... if you have open air filters please stay out of the mud and water. .. the trans modification is one of the best things you can do for any banshee motor in my opinion.. whats the use of getting and spending 4k on a big badd ass motor if it wont shift?? its no fun ripping the trails and trying to get them to shift from 3rd to 4th reliably. or bounching through the whoops in dirt and it dead neutrals on you and your holding on to the bars.. heck for as much as your spending on that bike you probably could have sold it and bought my outlaw? the shorter swingarms are fun but wow a 421 on a shorty arm is going to be nearly impossible to control . unless you have actually ridden a 90-100hp bike with a short arm its hard to describe.. i'm not saying i cannot be done. but for overall comfort and wheelie fun i prefer stock length to +4 even a +2 makes a big difference in control.
  13. ok guess i'll say something... yea those lil cubs can run ok. oh yea a cheetah can run way harder if done right.. if it still has the valves in it in my OPINION cc to cc they can whop a cub. and stay together better too. havent had my 535 for sale EVER? hell last hq ride in sahara it was still beating nearly anything else that was there.. and its freaking on its 6th damn season? hot lapped and ran for miles... and i outweighed every other rider there except maybe 1 other?? it will pull 16/41 with 14 paddle ext's and overdrive straights with my fat 300lb ass on it and launch so hard pretty much anyone else has to play catch up/... hell i sold all my cubs and now have 3 cheetah's. all pv.. i'm very happy with them they are very reliable and easy on parts. never seen one eat pistons like the cubs hmm? only reason i was selling the 485 was to try and fund a PV 611 cheetah.. its still here and might just end up with a lil boost behind it,,, not my fault i dont want to just give shit away? i posted a vid in the vids section. in one of the first runs there is a cheetah like a 12mill or 14 i'm not sure. that is running rippers and big ass gearing. when the bike didnt wheelie it accelerated hard as hell. go watch it. there were DM's there that weekend... if you want something you can hide a little bit , and you want cheetah casting do a 600cc those are some of the hardest running motors overall i have ever seen. or a 10 DM. those seem to work bad ass also. just get damn hot if you run them back to back.. BUT THATS JUST ME>
  14. hmm if the rear sproket is worn the hell out why did you buy a new chain.. ah hell i'm staying out of this one!!
  15. i'm going to say if its a serval. its somethign else. could even be crappy assembly and something is rubbing inside. crank rubbing cases, trans maybe? the 34's werent the best bottom end carbs. who tuned it for you or what?? you just throw it all together and hope for the best? maybe even possiblity of bad brakes or sticking rear, draggin rear bearings etc etc etc. these kinda "repairs" are EXTREMELY hard to diagnose over the internet. on a side note are you used to riding a 4 stroke? even a serval probably isnt going to make any real power untill about 4500-6000 rpm most 4 chokes are floating valves at that rpm ( yea unless they are high rev 450's) i have had to break lots of bad habbits on prev 4 stogee riders/ owners..
  16. all this bs and he somehow still sells parts.. 'whats bad is there are PLENTY of other great salvage atv suppliers on ebay... east coast atv is one i would use and have used often for used parts... if in doubt ask for the picture of the item you are actually buying if they wont give it to you then look else where.. in this instance i think all the blame is on you for not looking at the parts yourself. in face to face dealings you have all the power to say yea i want that or NO i dont want that and thats not what you said you had.. i deal on craigslist for this reason alone a LOT of the times. you can physically see and look at the item you are buying/ selling. that way when the deal is done its DONE> no surprises or paypal screw up or bad feedback just cause of "machine marks".. what a joke chariot. i'd be refuting that feedback for sure.
  17. sweet.. rip up the track!! have you ran it against any other ported or "built" motor.. running down and away from 4 poke fart canner's on a larger track should be a piece of cake on a banshee thats built right..
  18. if you have the cash and like the bike maybe a nice ported serval? OR find a set of decent 4 mill cylinders that are not drag ported OR a set of stockers and build a 4 mill or even a nice 350. if your on a budget a stock rebuilt crank and used low bore cylinders with new pistons would be key. then reassemble ( corectley) and leak down test. all new gaskets and seals etc.. use quality seals and gaskets there are some real trashy seals floating around these days. looks like that seal wasnt aligned right wne the motor was put back together.. that blueing is just from the crank rubbing on the case. with it all apart its a great time to do some transmission modifications and maybe some other minor updates throough out the motor for reliablilty..
  19. that video was bad ass!! never thought you could capture pure retard white trash like that on video, without it being "cops".. i laughed so hard when he was showing his "pro varmit remover/lawn cutta" ( yes matt i missspeeled those on purpose) i'd still like to see the lowriders... all the other shit in this thread is just entertainment.. all i can say is DUDE really just stop already!
  20. cut it. if it dosent come right out i just cut it. no way to heat it up. too much metal in the way.
  21. billet bowl. dual pj 40/40 or 41.3/44's OR DMR pj's can usually fuel a 421 pretty good. if its more of a rider 38's work fine or 36/38. my wifes 350 has 36/38 they are some of the most popular size in lectrons. if the cub runs worth a crap your going to need the extra fuel capacity. and not those goofy pj's that the openings are both at the same spot.. real dual pj's
  22. KAPOWW!!!!! thats the tune you want to avoid hearing.. alky with that much squish clearance you can peg a +12 plate no problem if the squish band is really wide you may have to back it off some
  23. this is an old trick from the 80's was mostly used on cr500's! nice come back!
  24. wacko! your uploaded tapaptalk'n linkage not worrkie fo me..?
  25. when you come to LS i'ma stanky that thang! hahahah well i guess i ride an outlaw for trails so yea overkill so what!
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