camatv

what if he is color blind?? i mean to him it might be "green or "yellow. then he's on here saying your a ding dong and don't know what your talking about. like so many others...

deff have the crank inspected. if all the bearings are getting slopy its probably cheaper to have a hot rods crank built up for drag racing.. BUT stockers done right hold up great. duneables eat shift forks for breakfast.... if your going straight drag just get a real override. if the motor needs re-rings deff need to inspect for wear in the cylinders and check your piston to wall clearance. usually re ring and "hone" results in too much clearance, busted skirts, and an unhappy rider

i think i have a set of big peg? propegs in the garage. i think the peg is 1 lower and a lil farther back?

thats an older style in the add. i like them too. just nice and clean. JD will hook you up and best quality i have seen.. HEY where is my LEGG one! HA HA

i'd even trade + cash for a set of PERFECT t-6.. yes T-6 NOT T-5

um is my post unreadable?? DUDE i have a set of NEW ones sitting here in the garage..... i could probably walk to okc and give them to you in a day...

after reading through that PDF that's a decent beginners guide. the info on the transfers is a lil wrong and all i'm going to say... really purchase as many differnt 2 stroke engine books as you can find/ afford. what i learned in most of the better ones helped me understand things that you can never read about on the net. also the info in them has made me think about the current available dome shapes and why they either don't work or do work. those books can also make you look more at the motor as a complete motor instead of just a "port job"// i can have more time in prepping a crankshaft than porting if i did what some of these books suggest. (and yea it works)

the reason you don't see technical threads is all the haters and bullshit that usually gets thrown in on the mix. let alone some of the so called ":builders" are just copying what they have seen done in the past ( you gots ta rember these things started in 1988ish.. that's a LONG time to "develop" a motor) and most like to keep things secretive to keep them earning money and why not? SOME have spent tons of time on dyno's, testing, and development ( breaking shit) along with the so called proper tooling.. hell i got into porting because i had a cylinder ported by CT and it came back running the exactly same it went out. what the fuck? PLUS i didnt have much cash but lots of time ( back then) plus i actually like to try different shit.. ( i mean really who else runs PV cheetahs anymore?) yea i started with about 3 sets of my own cylinders and also 2 of my own cheetah's and cubs are even another cylinder that if done right can make great power even whats available out the box. to me it dosent take much "port work" to get a cylinder like that to be truly competitive. ( Cub) but other cylinders and exotic motors take a real "builder and machinist not just a wrench turner.. hell i personally felt i told IMS wayyy to much on the PV cheetah's. didnt tell him everything but enough that i think he's heading in the right direction with it. also i think the 2 of us can both agree that current dome shapes ( basically available) are total trash.. and if you have the machine's to do some of your own work why not? or you could just build steam engines for a hobby..... naw not yet! i have tried to talk to some people who say they want to "learn how to port" and i felt they were just trying to do things to quickly or were not really understanding what the heck i was trying to say. so anymore i'm pretty selective on who i attempt to "help out" plus nearly every "builder" and porter has his ways of explaining the same thing... i mean really i can quote the entire paragraph out of the many different books i have read on porting and sound like i absolutely know what the hell i'm talking about. but showing up to a ride or the dunes or the track or whatever with something that PERFORMS, and stays together! is totally different...

i have a nearly new set big bore show chrome i'd sell. in kansas

is this a cheetah or a cub? if its cheeta the o-ring seals are in the cylinder? if its cub shouldnt be to bad..

cryo trans not really a big benifit if you ask me. i have a WCR "duneable" that was cryo treated. it shit forks faster than any other override i have ever had ( but there is a reason for that i am sure) if you can get it done for beer money.. hell do the entire engine.

thank god this dude asked where the gayest state was.. what the hell guys?>?

anything can be fixed. it just takes money..

wow thats some big time carnage! no matter what brand type style they will all do this eventually. the oem ( like what jeff sells) hold up a lot longer.

who says a 10 mill wont last?? i hot lap the SHIT out of my 535.. it is on alky BUT i'm sure on gas it would be just fine.. those guys you race that just blow off their tires have frame setup issues. its not up to the builders to set up the chassis. i have had to tell guys that i did cr500 kart motors that they need to get it to the ground. i just gave them the ability to overpower the track if they feel necessary.. if you use a billet 10 mill crank it will deff break. i don't care what anyone says its well known that billet crankshafts break all the time. forged is the way to go if you want reliability. and i mean like 4-8 years on a crank reliability. if it was me i'd consider a pv cheetah. but thats just me. if done right you would have the bottom end you would need and the top end if you were on larger tracks. you could also adjust the pv's for different tracks and conditions. next choice would be a 10 mill super serval cub with correct head ( and porting).. if your "class" dosent have a cc need then.... Or just a super cub 520.. BUT no matter what your going to be right back in the same boat as them friends of yours and blowing your tires off.... if you built a lowerhp motor its much easier to control and a lot of times having a bike that you can control will always get you a win in any kind of circle or MX racing.. and all that involves a LOT more than just a motor..

yup trans needs modded. no matter what its the best thing you can do to ( in my opinion) ANY banshee. even a cruiser or the ole "wife's bike" i do an entire process to these. no its not "top secret" but so far every trans i have done they seem to be very happy with. if you send one to me i can send it to any builder you want. i'm very easy to deal with! lots of things i have found wrong with them but most involve burned up bushings, burned up shafts, ( bad maintenance and bad bottom end oil) engagement edges blown off ( from trying to get it to shift), bent or toasted shift forks ( not so much on stockers) wrong adjustments and basically a total failure of yamaha to design a decent transmission. after the modification is done ( at least the way i do it) they shift bad ass, and will handle some power very well... and the plus is they wont destroy shift forks like so called "duneables" and if you think adjusting the detent is difficult try getting the spring pressure "just right" so the forks dont rub on the gears constantly and burn up in 6 months.. i mean unless you like tearing your motor down every 6 months to replace them?

lean..

i have a couple of sets of 2's lying around. they all need petals.. didn't know the 2's had more hp than the 3's. that's good to know. of course in my opinion then based on your results. i would just buy the 4's and never look back. at first i was going to just say. v-2's bout 100.00 v-3's bout 150.00 v-4's bout 210.00ish biggest difference i have seen. OH the 2's are easier to make look like stock....

if its done right its ok. are you going to see a HugE increase in hp no. i run box stock oem carbs on my 421 stock cyl they run just fine plenty of top end for me.

fuck the key's... if your on gas you can recut the OEM plate to get about 4 degree's out of it. and that mod costs 0 bucks... ( as long as your not retarded or ignorant OR dont have a die grinder)... the billet ones are sweet. BUT if you dont feel comfortable removing your flywheel and reinstalling your stator you probably shouldn't try and install this. rember blue locktight EVERYTHING i have ran combo's of dyna and plate also....

v-4 or v-3 if on sale.. chariot reeds? ( i have never personally ran a set.. sooo) stockers modified with boyesen 2 stage. stockers modified with boyesen carbon single stage. yes in that order depending on your "fundage"

the DYNA cannot be anywhere close to the coil,. you also need to run resistor plugs. try bR8es or whatever your running now just put the R in there the dyna is a digital igniton and dosent take kindly to all that thar noise commin off o that thar coil n spurk pluuugs ALSO check for air leaks. the "hunting for idle" is common for a tad on the lean side.. BUT the dyna could be doing it also.

HMM when i first read this it sounded like an air leak for sure. thank GOD you didnt put a 42 or whatever in it and try that holy crap it would have blown sky hi sounds like you found the leak. if you cannot fix it with paper gaskets you need to replace whatever it is that screwed up,, intake,, reeds whatever it is. if it wont hold 6psi at least you will NEVER get it to run worth a crap... why are you doing a blocked comp test??? an ENGINE will natually show a crazy high comp numbers if the exhaust is blocked off.. where does that pressure have to go?? no where. you need to rely on your engine all together throttle open comp numbers. and even then the dome shape will make all the difference in the way it runs and what fuel it will handle... a 22cc dome with 18mm band at .25tho clearance will blow up no matter what.... but still kick a low comp number..

shouldnt the owner know who built it? if the frame looks good IN PERSON and he has been racing it so what. whhaaaaa!!! NObody CHEATS in atv racing phhhh

looks like you need to figure out what exactilly you have. i'd also recomend someone in the know. "Sent From My Laptop Using My Fingers"