camatv

carb's 35mm pwk's air stryker or not dosent really matter. best thing with stryker's is the added vents out the top to stop them from overloading in whoops and jump's etc.. i'd prefer a set of 36/38mm lectron HV carbs due to the extremely easy set up and tuning. but thats me and i like simple... the lectron HV carb in that size will perform on the bottom a lot like a 33mm pwk BUT have better top end power capacity i feel. if your budget allows get the v-4's. replacement reeds for 2's and 3's are in the 100 buck range. so rember that when your looking for used reeds.... the CPI's should be just fine for you. if you want more power consider a differnt top end.. the biggest thing i would suggest ( of course) is a modified transmission. if it wont shift whats it matter if it has more power?? if you want PM me and i can get you information on the trans that i do. and of course all the other what i call "basic" engine build up stuff. billet basket, hd clutch, bearing'd clutch pusher, true'd and welded crank and upgraded crank bearings. and also possibly lightened flywheel, and ignition modifcations. either DYNA or a billet timing plate..

the oem cranks you have to buy new rebuildable style inner webb's. to do an oem crank correctley takes some real skill. you have to have them phased absolutely DEAD ON> if its off by 2 degree's your timing will be all over the place and the bike will have issues.. back in the way back days you could buy IMS inner webbs and rebuild a stocker crank. in all reality. you can purchase a NEW oemstyle hotrods crank for about 350ish? probably less than the labor, rod kits, and rebuildable center sections you would need.. used to be the labor alone was in the 100-125ish range .. since i do my own cransk i can usually redo a stocker for pretty reasonable. plus i can take a bunch of junk ones apart and after specing a ton of parts get one together that meets OEM specs pretty well usually with just using new lower bearings and thrust washers etc. but this takes time and a lot of specialty tools some of which i actually built myself.. if your motor has porting or really anything over pipes. it needs the crank welded..

blue point 90* air die grinder will get you started. i used one for a while ( till i got the ART 90* for the foredom)

what country do you live in?? and SEEE I TOLD YOU TO SPLIT THE WHOLE F'N MOTOR! no way an 87-89 case with the OEM crank would survive a new top end. even a piston to wall clearance debacle like you put back together.... yes weld the damn crankshaft... if a shop will rebuild it with rods well go ahead and do it. if the lower rod bearing exploded it probably trashed the big pin. if it did you cannot replace that on a oem crank. you either have to get new webbs OR buy a complete new crank assembly. i'd suggest a NEW hot rods oem stroke crank. you tried saving $$ and now you have a trashed motor with new trashed pistons in it... ye ha

i think thats a better question... you better check your crank runout, and bushing on the clutch basket, and the crank bearings ...

like i said.... i think i am going to take a picture of my porting "area" with most of my tooling out to show what i use... its a little overwhelming..

hot rods. 4 mills usually run about 400-435 with good bearings. thats not "cheap" enough for you??? dont know about the rest seen lots of posts of "broken chinese junky ass shit" if vito's actually "fixed" the issues they were having be nice to know... but otherwise i'll just stick to the hotrods cranks..

basically what i did was cut the front of the mount out where the U shaped thingy's are at on the box. then i cut completely around where the box is at the air filter. leaving basically only the air filter and the rest of the box in front of that. also take the front section apart and yamabond all over that area and then reasemble and remove excess. doing this makes the box slide right off the pins backwards but still lets the box support itself on the pins.. other times i have cut the pins off the frame completely and then trimed down the old mounts completely and made a little bracked that went on the front of the bolts for the plate and to the front rear fender screwes in the frame.. or sometimes not use the mount at all. the openings on the box went up to a 36mm kehien with no problems if i rember right./. variations can be done as well for more water control cut the entire bottom of the box off and leave the sides.. OR dont ride in the water.... i ran the above completely open style box on a more than a few bikes and if there was any loss in HP i couldnt believe it was noticable.. BUT i also used those larger opening plate OR modified the stock plastic one by resealing it and bolting it to the OEM box... then running a BMC or k+N filter. i really liked the bmc.... best thing was the filters didnt get holes in them the outerware PHH didnt melt and i didn't have all these clamps and insulaters and bullshit hanging all over the back of the bike. if you looked up under the seat just a nice clean air filter hanging out there.. i really like nice and clean stuff without all the crap like cup holders and remote controls for reverse camera's and shit like that.

its an all stock bike and she needs a lockup?? come on man.. i'd say replace the cable ( with OEM and LUBE IT) and use a nice newer lever with the ball bearing in it. hydraulic's are really only good for their auto adjust. stay stock on the springs. if its completely stock and has NEVER been trough in the bottom end also look at replacing the basket, the boss and the pressure plate. use a better clutch but get NEW OEM BANSHEE springs. get and use a bearing pusher for the clutch also. those items can really help with the feel of the clutch.. on a side note what bars was she running?? if they are the big goofy apehangers i see a lot and they are twisted way forward they can put your wrists are REALLY bad angles and make riding a pain in the wrists.. i personally have carpel really bad in both of my wrists and also some early issues with joints and stuff. the correct bars in the correct place makes all the difference in the world.. raptor 700 bars/ bend is pretty nice really. or any bar bend with not much pull back and not 18" high either.. i'd also say look for +2 arms, a +4 axle and shocks for the front. so what if its on stock pipes and bla bla bla. that should be a fun bike. if she is to weak to hold on anymore seriously look at a SXS..

get a manual and do WHAT IT SAYS TO DO> ohms test the BOOTS off the coil wires, i would venture to say flywheel, stator, or bad plug boots. you can get one of those spark testers and unless it will jump a big gap it wont fire the cylinder under a load.. if the stator is WEAK it will run on one cylinder.. and or break up bad on top end. also if the gap is too far it can cause this BUT usually they will idle just fine.. other electrical problems may exist you said you took it to a few "shops" did that have someone that knows how to work on this model specifically?? or just some "tech dude" that rides dirt bikes.. if you were close i'd say bring it to me and i promise i will find the problem had some really weirdo ones come across my lift a few times.. also its a far fetched problem but an out of phase crank can do this also.. thats something nobody ever checks for.. also i'd suggest a real leak down test..

ok maybe a lil off subject what did the "extreme" involve differently than the fork eating duneables... i have a "concept" as far as a spring assisted rider trans but have not started on it yet. i'm working on a trans "dyno" to help with some of my idears... that duneable may be working fine but unless those goofy springs are PERFECT it will eat shift forks BUT by the time you realize a fork is damaged so far it wont stay in gear usually the gears are jacked up too.

wow that took 30 hours. holy hell.. i could belive it if you used those lil files... a lot of "porting" is knowing what numbers to run, and practice practice practice. hand control and tons of patience. hell i have been doing it for over 15 years now and i still look at things differntly all the time.. still wanting to do a triple exh stock cylinder that dosent LEAK> AND can be ran longer than 15 minutes.. i use'd a blue point 90* air tool for a long time. it was a bear to use. but i learned a lot with it. and yes a TON of power is to be had by modding transfers. hell the best lowend ports i have done in the 130 range on transfers thats hard to do.. i recently purchased a SR foredom tool and a few other bit's and tooling. i kinda like it but sometimes miss the smallness of the dremel 's OLD style cable. the head was very small like a pencil and for whatever reason it gave me a lot more control over the bit i think.. i'm still "learing" on the foredom . practice on any tooling is really what it takes.. also i have tried about 100 differnt bits and cutter's i have come down to just a few shapes that i like the best that work for me the most.. also i cannot stress enough how important just the basics are in one of these bikes. i recently worked on one for a local. they thought it had a jetting problem ran bad and cut out really hard on top. the bike had really bad connections to the coil, one spark plug boot was dead on the ohms reader. it had an air leak on an aftermarket cylinder because some other shop reused too short of bolts for the intake and stripped the threads all out of it ( YIKES) the bike had been flipped and when it did it cracked the dyna ignition at the back and caused an ignition problem. concentrating on jetting or "porting" would have lead to no fixes for it and just more frustration...

shear's, if you want more for your "riding style and have some engine work... also consider CPI and or other drag pipes...

those look like steel bars... its hard to tell from the video but i dont see the clamps around the bars for the cross bar. alluminum bars with a cross bar wouldnt have done that. at least shouldnt have.

um ok i didnt read the last page of posts if i can figure out a way to add pictures to this site easily i can do a write up. everything i do to the box they come off very easily also if you have to remove the box to get to the bottoms of the carbs wow thats a lot of work... ever consider tilting them? much easier.. also the pro~design clamp setups is very choking. there are a bunch of other plates available that are much larger on the opening inside.. if on a trail bike not everyone and their mom is looking for the maximum hp. i have also dealt with clamping my silencers to the frame and attempting to "cushion" the filters from the frame i ended up going back to the box style. i still prefer that over the pods its just my opinion. and my preference.. i have a 4 mill stocker i am redoing and one of my plans is to redo the box..

how's come i always read about peoples motors all torn apart and such?? they not stay together or something?? i'd love to come down and help you tune those lectrons in. being taught in person the right way to tune them goes a long way down the road.. but i think its like 10 hours or something for me kinda sucks.. the local track tome i'm not sure if they will be running or even a schedule at all...

the pulse coil looks closer to stock than others i have seen.. i'd love to see an option with NO lighting circuit for drag bikes. just a pulse and a ignition side.. that would be kewl.

watched 4 flywheels break apart on drag bikes almost every one took out the crank bearings eventually. lost one customer that i built a motor for because he didnt "believe" that his high end miss was his brand new ricky stator. not that i really cared he screwed me out of 300 bucks later anyways... i have 2 or 3 on the wall if a motor comes through here anymore i will not finish it or claim it untill the stator is removed... i'd feel better about running a 15 year old OEM rusty stator than a brand new ricky..

haha

what happend to the pic?

some of those goofy ass 4 bar swingarms twist also. chassis should NEVER wobble or toss around at all...

oh also i think you can get 68.25mm or 68.5mm..

aggressive tril ported? thats great

me personally... i prefer a highly cut up stock box over pods. the pods rubb on the frame get holes in them and are running right next to your super hot exhaust. you almost have to have those goofy slip over insulation thangy's/ if your just a cruiser or weekend warrior, trails, dirt, sand. i'd suggest a highly modd'ed box. maybe i could do a write up on how i do them.. they are easy to remove and its only one filter to clean..

guess so...