clean off all that crap. NO locktight on the shaft NO other BS> use a new key lap the wheel ontothe crank and then replace your stator and the entire grounding of the electrical system..
there may also be an issue with the taper of the crank not being correct..
the flywheel can be arching onto the crank and causing an issue. i only use blue locktight on the nuts threads. and tq to factory specs. if you want you can also put a washer in behind the nut
im really happy that you like the trans. i spent a lot of time perfecting the modifications and what all goes with it.
sucks the fly wheel had problems..
this would be a nice place/ site to kinda imortilize some of the greatest machine's ever built ( atv wise.) not painted up stockers but nicely modified and complete banshee based stuff thats really not all that popular anymore ( what a shame)
if M+M is building the motor/ recomending stuff why not just use what they say to?
i mean if they are selling the motor, have put one together , dyno tested all the diff combo's, have a few opinions based on that experience with what works for them and the certain combo you are looking for why not just do it.
i was just noticing the lower frame section that was modified on them.. other than that with the shitty ass old trinity pipes they look like shit.. those motors had so much more potential its not even funny.
hmm dont take this the wrong way..
top case will need to be filled, port matched, welded, center bored for the sleeve and reinforced to accept the cylinder..
its not a cub..
where is the rest of that vid with that chick. damn..
oh and yea wcr transmissions blow..
the stock mod i do i think works great but never had one in a really big high TQ motor.
coup hit on the head. ride faster.
i have. stock rad, stock impeller, 50/50 mix of cheappo coolant, gas and i ride the bike fast NEVER overheated..
DONT run straight water. DONT use tap water. mix 50/50 coolant at least with distilled water. if you want to impress your friends buy food coloring and change the color of the coolant ( i've heard blue is neato)
those 2 from the uk dont look bad i like the lower frame hoop for the pipe clearance. thats a good idear. those are some SERIOUS BRAKES!!
somone copy all those pics and throw them in this thread.. the ebay listings will go away after a lil bit.
yes you need it..
its th eover flow tube when the carbs get to much gas in them it will drip oput of that tube without it the fuel will just por out the bottom of the carb..
if you need a bowl i have a bunch of them i'd send you one for 15 shipped.. i'd just need to know which side you have.
buy a few books, buy a few hundy in porting tools, clean up the entire cylinder and redo the exhaust, intake , transfer tunels and the transfer ports.. i hope thats a run on sentence.
pc's like 190-198 exhaust and 126-130 transfers.
hmmm that is actually an intersting top end. 85mm bore with stock crank. i'd like to play with it.
that top case has some work to get that cylinder to fit right. also looking at the pics and from some of my limited experience there is more work that could be done to the top case to improve it..
i'd love to machine it out for the pv's and use them as well. wonder what 85mm piston uses a 16mm pin?
buy a manual. there is a wiring diagram in the back USE IT!
on the headlight harness the black and the black/ white are your killswitch wires. hook them together and the bike will have no spark.
i switch plugs all the time its not a big deal. one of mine dosent even have plugs past the cdi its all hardwired in.