camatv

fuck no now go slap your "buddy"

first off if your an experienced mech you should know the importance of a manual. now that being said the bad thing about the manual is it only refer's to OEM stuff. so thats where we come in ( sometimes.) the creeping is worn clutch, and from age standpoint all that other stuff listed above.. the trans is an inherint issue with the actual transmission itself. the only way to TRULY fix that is pulling the motor splitting the trans and having a stock modified trans done and reinstalled. ( i just happen to know some one that does a really good one !!<<<) the tusk clutch is a great budget clutch. all the others are not going to be much better quality than that one. if its a higher HP motor i prefer the driveline performance due to its quality and cost. you will deffinetly want to look into a billet basket the mattoon is a nice one and at a decent price. most other brands are hard coated which is a very nice feature. BUT they have extremely weak backing plates and mounting hardware..

if your more than capable of doing ALL the work yourself its not that bad id HIGHLY recomend finding the best deal on a colplete roller and go from there. if you just buy a frame your going to mostlikely blow your 2k budget and rip your hair out finding all the lil parts.

sell the gold series and buy a set of SST's with forestry silencers. if its still to loud repack them

wow,.

i'd like to see a compareable PRICE version as well. for 550 i can buy 2 nology single fire coils and a dyna programable ignition. id love to see a test with jetting changes and compare these with a nology coil set up VS bone stock VS nology / dyna cdi, and maybe a digital PVL or analog PVL.. also would a COP coil from a gm work? thats what these look like. or possibly even a slightly modified yfz 450 coil? tell them that their high priced bs is just going to sit on the shelf. if your bike is fouling a plug from sitting i REALLY doubt its from a weak spark on one cylinder.

ha its not even done yet. i'm thinking of using a raptor 700 radiator. if not a cr80 should work. the cr500 rad is just one i had sitting around. its off of an 86. i dont ride very slow and the other one i'm doing will be an alky bike so it wont matter as much. i'd still only use at least a cr80 radiator they are dual row. the stock banshee is single row.

i stank leged that motor.

im sure matt shear has some.

it just never stops amazing me.

was sappenin!!

yes its too cold. stay home

ok i'll say it.. the yearly BHQ ride is THE sturgis for the banshee, dune addict. its a BLAST lots of drag racing, dune riding, night partying, golf cart racing, dog barkin, alky bombs blowing up, fire jumps, drunk fat jockey's, burrito eating, beer drinkin, mini motocross mayhem. if it blows blue smoke it aint no joke..

got the radius cutter for the lathe done!

the t6 is a better pipe anyways.

umm yea thats one hell of a dent. id be willing to say YES that particular dent will hurt performance. now being that they are PT's

i know i know!!. i'm working on getting it done. these are the things i'm also doing in the meantime.. building the following tools. , > working on this now, radius cutter for a lathe< , roll bender ( with springers help), and hopefully dies for the bender.. large 2hp belt sander with tubing cut capacity, project bikes, yfz, drag yfz, stock modified frame and to do these. i kinda need the above tools, also working on building a rotary frame jig with multiple jig bolt ons. hope to have a frame mock of banshee front, rear, yfz front rear, lsr outlaw front, rear plus i have a bunch of other stock chassis bikes, motors to build that i'm trying to sell to fund all of this... then there is still the day to day work out there..

the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting differnt results.. if you have replaced multiple flywheels, and multiple crank webs and neither are built buy the same company. and your getting the same results SOMETHING IS WRONG>> screw billet cranks. DEMAND a proper built crank or sue them.

either way will be fine. on 350's iprefer the 110 rod. i dont run my shit in the mud either. if the piston to wall clearance is to much welp you need a rebuild.. short rods are more prone to breaking? HUH?

maybe off subject but what about titiling a home built chassis?

i always wonder how the rollers " roll" when they are jammed in a sproket?

be nice to see that one get started!!

ok got tools i want to buy someone get these hot rods.

DDQ is spot on also i know this is a stretch BUT why not GO to an event you plan to race ASK the people that take the money at the start of the race and see what they REQUIRE and RECOMEND> also walk around and maybe even ASK some of th e people there racing in the event what they prefer.. every racing organization requires differnt things and has rules and regulations they require and some are highly recomended.

you got problems..