camatv

google "chrome platers" then CALL THEM ask them about rechroming pipes. ask them about warranty chrome from peeling and ask for a guarantee'd turn around time.

no if its for TORRS style set up it wont fit. if its TORRS eleminater style it might fit smaller carbs. if the carbs are over 33 mm you should buy the correct cable it will have a longer throw to it and can open the larger carbs.

i think the rich/ lean conditions your seeing is a result of 2 stroke and 2 stroke pipe conditions and what they do to the motor. thats interesting on the efi ability to correct for all that.

oo pretty.

beee PSHSHSSS beeeeeee PSSHSHSHSH beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee PSHHHHHHHHHHSHSSHSHSHSHHSSHHHHHHHHAAAAAHAHAHA

yes nuts interchange i have a pile of old nuts. ooooo that dosent sound right..

you will need a correct center crush tube also. are you converting a 35mm carrier? or just replacing bearings? if your just replacing theme measure them out and find what you need. if your converting call LSR OR sell the one you have and buy the correct carrier bet its cheaper than you think

set your camber/ caster were it needs to be, i like 1-2 degree's of lean in on top. set the toe where it needs to be. ( 0 - 1/8" toe in ) then you may have to modify the steering stop to keep the sterring from going over center.. thats what the stop is there for. IF your stop is bent forward you would need to bend it back. weld up the parts that are worn out and install a reinforcement tab. i have done this many times to frames.. its a common problem if the stem dosent hit the stop like it should might be time to make a few phone calls.. i have had to modify stuff like that more then one time to get it to work like i think it should. maybe i'm just to picky or like a bike that i feel is "safe"

stock pipes. get a torrs eliminater and an air box plate.

ya got it!! the ole c plane will get all that shit there eventually..

yea they rip. all the fart can bikes go to the back of the track later in the vid., ha

call k+t ask for gas domes. fixed.

clutch pack height stays the same there is no way to change that unless you play with thinner or thicker steels.. the springs i personally dont know of anyplace you can just call and get differnt spring rates i have a huge box of springs and will be doing much more with clutch tuning this coming year. staggering your springs can put differnt pressures on your clutch pack and may cause some warpage now i'd think this would be worse with a bike that is rode hard and has a heavy slipping clutch. in the sand/ dirt the clutch isnt as important as you would think. doing things with rider position and tire size can affect traction a lot like the way a clutch is used to control traction in a 0 change traction situation ( like asphault). the lockups i am just starting to understand more. and the more research i do about them and how the profesional automotive/ MC drag world deals with clutch management the more i think the current styles are behind the times about 30+ years. they are better than what was used in the early days but still nothing like whats current popularity in "pro" world.. i cannot find or know of a real time data recorder for our situation ( small cheap and useable) although thats one of the things i'm looking into with a modified digitron. if your playing with spring pressures and finger weights the only thing you can tell for sure is if you make a change in time on a timed track OR stop an excessivly slipping clutch. with out data management you ( in my opinion) cannot really tell whats going on in your clutch. my best advice is to do a shit ton of your own testing and research get a spring pressure tester and start buying springs OR you might be able to call barnett and ask them about differnt springs and go from there. the best advice i can tell you right now is rember changing yoru spring effect will change the lockup effect as well.

they are more like a cpi than a shear. the power hits hard and is very manageable. this is from roberts ported seval and my 36/38 tuned lectrons on alky;

1-5 n down unless you have asphault needs. 2-5 is old school and for peeps that cannot gear or know how to run an override and only run 300 ft real men run it out the back door with their leg in the air.

hmm no i believe they are 2 ring. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Piston-Kits-Kawasaki-H2-750-Wossner-NEW-/110794221152?hash=item19cbd9a660&item=110794221152&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_1813wt_1139 only thing i am concernd about is the side cut at the pin. might be to long.

the testing on this coil if it was really wanted to be done right would have to be what i suggested. i have the capacity and knowledge along with some very nice and gracious dyno tunner's and testers to really evaluate a product. if i do a real dyno test its done at a facility where my "opinion" and anything other than the balls out truth will come to light. unlike some other "testers" if i get a product i will report on it hoestly and will show good and bad of both i have the capacity and the products to usually test against and alongside other new "products.. why not send me a set if you want real world results. wont take me but a few weeks at most and maybe less if i can get the dyno time set up.

the reason they make soo much TQ is because they are PV motors. randy when ever you want to send them to me or come down let me know.

build it yourself and learn the hard way. only way to learn i guess..

its an kawasaki H2 piston if the crank is a 115 rod. then you would need to machine the windows in them IF you want to. they dont have to have the windows... also check out wossner pistons for the h2. about the better retail price i have seen is about 125 bucks.. harry probably got them for that low price because they bot a shit ton of them. the h2's i believe are a 423m07300 i have a set on the shelf out there. adn i'm with you on the retarded price 400 bucks for a set of pistons and a few o-rings ( 2 of which are WRONG) and some 250r intake gaskets from cometic yea right

the trans is a POS and you need to fix the real problem..

thats one back woods engine right there.. between the spacer. the garantee'd not to come out clips and the absolute certanty the ports are all jacked up, AND the PRO cut base gaskets.. that thing needs help what a freebee

id love to see that one. if thats the case i'll haul my "trail bike" WITH trinity pipes on it and get me some.. in my OPINION the inframe trinity pipe is good for mid cc motors. it likes porting and likes motors that breath and are tuned right. they are a great non HUGE inframe pipe NOW that said would i go BUY a new set for 700 bucks hell naw. im a lil differnt than the average "trail" rider i like a bike that i can ride and dosnet kill me i can motor my 421 stocker trail bike up dunes in low rpms and truck it around and not have to rev the hell out of it..

hmm if your going to drag race it. not sure why you would choose gas if you are. id say a set of shears ( like andy suggested) should be fine. IF your going to ride it around i'd highly suggest a set of snipers. i personally dojnt have any experience with rockets so i dont really know but due to the fit on them i prefer others. other that that its andys call its a bolt together motor. and they are spelled LECTRONS. electrons is when your in the dirty down south and you " gotta go to da electrons booth cause da new press is geeettn vetoed in"

that swingarm looks familliar.. you can buy the spacers from anyone that sells carriers. or make some most times i have to make them escpecially with used stuff the brake is removed they fall off and nobody cares. i zip tye them to the brake holder when i remove them/