sandrappy

Don't have a ton of hours with the solid mounts i made. However, before that i was running billet hangers, and they simply positioned the pipes to where they either rubbed on the frame or the left pipe even hit the cylinder. With the aluminum ones i can't remember how long i have ran them... probably 3-4 years minimum and they were bolted solid and pipes haven't cracked.

I've had issues with bb inframe shearer pipes as well. I worked on them forever trying to get them to fit and honestly they never fit with the carbs quite right. Then one day it hit me. It was the top mounts that was off. So i made my own solid mount and positioned the pipes to where they didn't hit the frame yet tucked nicely by the carbs, now they fight like a glove. I'd highly recommend making your own hanger instead of using a stock one (which will eventually tear because of the force pulling on them).

I tried torquing it a little higher to hold the flywheel on tighter so there was no movement and no welding action did not work and the factory 60 lbs did the same as the 80 lbs. The problem is i have ran the flywheel with nothing on it and only put locktite on the nut to make sure it didn't come loose. Still welded itself. I don't think it is the taper of the crank, because i had a flywheel weld itself so bad that we had to replace the entire crank web. Also has happened with multiple different flywheels and on different crank webs. Plus it is welding itself all along the length of the shaft, thus don't think the taper is off and not seating right. This last time i marked the entire taper of the crankshaft and lapped it until there were no low spots and all the marker was gone so it had a perfect contact area (wasn't any low spots to begin with anyway). Still welded itself. Also in the years i have consistently had this problem i have ran 3 different stators: the original one, a replacement oem one and a ricky stator. made no difference what stator was ran and didn't think it would anyway. How would a stator cause an electrical issue? there is no current on the flywheel or crank being generated. oh and i have also ran multiple different keys, made no difference. i literally have tried everything to fix it with no luck. It is not galling. I have seen a key shear before and seen a flywheel gall, this is not whats happening. The crank and flywheel are fusing together and when you remove the flywheel it pulls large chunks of metal out of the crank. Not trying to sound mean or come off wrong, but have any of you guys actually ran a billet crank? i know it happens to others, i'm wondering if anyone has had issues with billet twister cranks? Maybe just a crankworks billet deal??? Jereme6655 Oh okay i gotcha now. I will have to remember that wire trick to make sure the key is pushed forward and not holding anything up.

i thought about putting anti sieze on it as it is the one thing i haven't tried. I don't use an impact and will never use and impact on a crank. I torque it down to yamaha spec. I think its around 60lbs and then this last time i torqued it to 80lbs to see if that would help hold it. I can try the wire trick but once that flywheel is torqued down and if the key is actually holding up the flywheel i highly doubt i would be able to move that key with a wire. Not only that but the strange thing i noticed this last time is that the places it welded together was right on both sides of the key.

The flywheel is welding itself to the crank. When i pull the flywheel off there is actually chunks of metal ripped off the crank and stuck to the flywheel. I can get the flywheel off fine but it is ruining the crank shaft every time i pull the flywheel. If it runs long enough it actually will pull huge chunks out than i will have to replace the entire crank web.... which is expensive! I'm wondering is it just the larger stroke of the cranks causing additional movement, is it the two different types of metal causing electrolysis and fusing them?

Is it just me or does everyone's billet cranks weld themselves to the flywheel? what causes this and how do i get it to stop happening???? I have ran a ricky stator fly wheel, two different stock flywheels, lapped the crank to the flywheel, coated the crank and flywheel in red locktite, tried coating both with grease, lapped and installed dry, used multiple different keys. the list goes on. No matter what i do or what i try the flywheel always welds itself to the crank. I've had to replace the shaft once already and two different fly wheels. I've tried every trick in the book and this last time i pulled the flywheel it had just started to weld itself again. This motor hardly had any run time on it, so what do i do to stop this from happening for good? Also why does it only seem to be the billet cranks? i have never had a stock or hot rod crank do this. I want to hear solutions and not recommendations as i have tried ever single recommendation and none have work. So if you have had success with a method please fill me in.

In the past if i ran a direct link shock i always had the swingarm made for it. Metal tech would change the position of the shock mount and it would point down towards the ground, instead of the tabs point up where the linkage mounts. This makes the angle of the shock a little better. However i have a chrome swingarm now and was thinking about putting a direct link marvin shaw on it, and dont want to ruin the chrome by welding new tabs. Would bolting the shock to the swingarm with the mounting tab facing up be a bad idea? The shock would be more horizontal, and from measuring the distance is only slightly shorter. I'm just wondering if this is a bad idea for a dune bike? What are the negative affects of changing the shock angle?

Any time the transmission has been run it was not backloaded very hard if at all, and was defiantly never used to slow down the bike down the hill or downshifted like that. Heck with a stock tranny i won't coast down a hill with no throttle as your turning high rpms with throttle closed and no oil getting to engine.... I honestly think it is the engine overpowering the transmission. I think most duneables have been used with smaller engines. contacted WCR about it and he is going to swap me out for a "pro mod" tranny. Which is essentially a stock transmission that is under cut. So should be able to ride the piss out of it just like a stock transmission but be able to shift it better when racing.... or at least i hope so and that i don't have to take the motor apart again to pull the tranny.

Long story short, the bike isn't a strict drag bike. more of a dune/drag/hill shooting bike. Was running the stock transmission for years and finally decided to try an duneable override (couldn't shift it under power), Wanted to try dunable because a standard override is out of the question. Anyway sent the stock tranny to WCR and got a 1-4 with manual 5th and 6th gear "extreme duneable" cut. The engine hasn't had more than 10 minutes of run time with this transmission and has bent shift forks twice. I'm not sure what the cause is, but essentially riding it for a bit causes second to jump in and out of gear when under power. Pull motor apart and all shift forks need replaced. Talking with WCR he is blaming it on the matton billet cases saying that tolerances are horrible in them, and with those cases they have nothing but problems with cut trannys. What i'm wondering is should i mess with sending it back to him again to fix? Last time i only sent the tranny back and this time he says he needs the bottom cases to see what is going on and how to fix it. The bike doesn't get ridden much but a few times a year on holiday weekends. it was rock solid before but now the new motor has been in the bike for two years and really haven't even gotten to test it out yet or dialed in because of the tranny. So i'm looking for advice. should i let him try and fix it or say to heck with it and put a stock tranny back in it? I'm tired of the issues and don't have the time to keep tearing it apart. Also how have you guys heard how WCR's extreme duneable are holding up? was suppose to be the best thing since sliced bread......

Still got the pipes and want to get them out of here. I'll do $450 shipped to your door for these pipes. This is my bottom dollar.

bump. still got the pipes and have lots of guys interested. first one to send payment gets them. my email address above is also my paypal address. if you have any questions feel free to call! thanks

That picture shows up weird when you clicked on. This one is better.

I have a set of Shearer's in frame big bore pipes for sale. They are show chrome and in good condition, but not perfect. $465 shipped. Call or email is quickest way to reach me. 970-768-7168 tgeisick23@hotmail.com

I would answer the question, but I can't think with all the boobs in my face.... Anyway from what I have seen the dyna's are nice cause you can create custom curves, and it puts out more sparking energy then the stock cdi. On some bikes this is good and some it makes no difference. Basically the dyna's programability allows more precise ignition advance, then just adjusting a timing plate. The extra spark energy only really seems to help on high horse power engines that are feeding a lot of air and fuel into the cylinders. Also I have seen a few rare instances where a bike had a miss to it no matter what was done. Tried everything to fix it and the only cure was a dyna cdi box. Still can't figure out why it won't run with out a dyna cdi.....

I'd also get my cylinders ported when you put in the stroker crank. When you change the stroke of the engine you also are changing the port timing. This is the purpose of the spacer plate. It moves the cylinders up 2mm to accomodate the longer stroke of the crank.