camatv

normal override uses only rotation to move the gears up. what i call a "spring assisted" uses springs to help move them around. the spring assist i "feel" is better if your going to be shiftin it up and down in the trails.. both eat forks if you backload them hard.. i have had my std overrides last longer than the duneable i had. BUT the duneable was cut by wcr. the std trans was built by a shop that is no longer around ;( whay can you NOT drag race an override where the hell did this bullshit come from? id say if you have an normal override and you drag race and it works dont buy a dunebale just to be able to say oh its a duneable beech.

wont true up? send it to crankworks.. BUT a decent hotrods SS was like what 400 or so maybe less?

ditch that junky ass intake and buy a decent 2 piece. that is one seperate intake for each side like stock. and one that uses genuine mikuni boots instead of those rippomatic, leaky ass chinese bullshit

CALL NOSS Fix your motor Fix the problem that caused it to nuke..

heads?? or you mean top ends?? best that i have experience with: pv cheeta others that i would deff consider twister. t-rex in my opinion and probably many others is its to junky and to hard to get parts.. like pistons.. maybe if you did a domed pistons and remade the head?

single colors are soooo 1990's!! how about translucent black over the top of red with a gold flake clear? do with somethign NEW and exciting instead of RED... or BLACK.... or YELLOW>>>> my favorite is flamin banana

the dentons i have used needle bearings instead of bushings. i also really like tims ( stellar) desin of j-arms with the yfz tie rods and the big ball joints that a rock solid front end.. i have a PILE of BENT upper a-arms out there. they bend just as easily or easier than the j-style for sure.. the problem that i see is where the ball joint is mounts compared to the actual a-arm they are on a flat plate thats kinds pis poor welded on i bet a lot of peeps are riding bent a-arm bikes right now and probably dont even know or even care.. if you look at the a-arm where the ball joint is there will be a slight bend or peeling paint and rust there from a harsh landing. aftermarket j-arms or a-arms even WILL not have this problem at all.

sweet! hmm an in~tank pump like the 700 uses would be nice.. i perosonally hate the big clunky fuel pumps hanging out all over the place.. if you can plastic weld or build a alluminum banshee tank and just make the flange to accept the 700 pump assembly?

.40 is to tight on a serval.. or any cub.. personally i'd be looking more like .45-.55 range average squish clearance.. over .50 and they will live forever.. rev to the moon and be much easier on crank parts.. but again thats just me..

i have a ton of oem stock carb intakes. 25 pair shipped. they are like new and clean some have clamps some dont.. i can throw up pics later..

i have 2 brand spanking new e series white bros slip ons for 660 raptor one is new new new in the box with all the mounting hardware and etc. i just poped it to make sure it was there. other one is just the muffler part i dont have the rest to mount or hook it up its brand new in the plastic tho. sell both for 350 shipped. new in box with all 225 shipped. other with missing stuff 175. they both have the spark arrester rear caps in them with diffusers.

i dig it with the drag pipes!!! oh and if you part it i want one of the rubber nubs under the seat.. PHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

has anyone called kevin gigot about this?? his "kit" is reasonable. as far as ultra reliable with tune hmm. as the motor wears the tune needs adjusted carbs actually compensate for this some.. efi dosent.. i think a single tb is a good idear.. as far as the rest it should cost as much a set of carbs. i dont really know anyone who will lay out 1500 for injection on a ban unless they are going to be building a turbo.. oh and 34pj's blow and thank god they are discontinued.. in my opinion!! you would need a MAF sensor and a large range O2 sensor to really make it work right.. OF course i'm a complete ding dong but the OEM stuff i used to work on was lightyears ahead of the bullshit i see on the atv's..

find my thread. then look at all the other "builds" decide for yourself.

here is my suggestion... seeing that your going to be taking it kinda far away.. but a HOTRODS fully welded crank with american TZ bearing on it and maxload. use a cometic AFM or alluminum reinforced basegasket NOT that SHIT paper (i dont care what they tell you) have the top case filled for better surface contact on the basegasket. use wiseco pistons OR wossner pistons. lately i am prefering the wossner to the wiseco's droping quality.. use a NOSS head OR prodesign head ( i'd lean heavily towards the NOSS) PD style head domes are more and more becoming the std shape for domes. if you nuke one or have a problem getting a replacement will be easy. PLUS the CUB dome desing is pretty std anymore escpecially through NOSS ( Dave is the man!) get a Mattoon billet basket. get the transmission modified to work with the serval ( i know a guy who does this HINT HINT WINK WINK ) use a driveline HD clutch kit with HD springs and a billet clutch pusher with the bearing on it.. use SHEAR pipes, USE 36/38hv gas lectrons. is someone called me and asked for a serval thats what i would do. i'd also heavily suggest proper porting, and complete assembly and inframe tuning ( put the motor in a bike set it up tune it ride it) any less and i'm sorry i wont build it. i'd work around differnt carbs if i had to but the rest is pretty much set in stone.. BUT thats just me.. as far as the "kit" m+m's is one i would consider. i believe jeff uses a HOTRODS crank. I personally havent had much luck with the wiseco cranks due to bad assembly. andy's cranks seem to be holding up fine in the few i have built using those.

being where you are going to be riding and using the bike also makes me lean more towards lectrons with their relatively easy tuning and user friendly tuning i wiould lean more to the lectrons.. 36/38hv is what i would recomend. with external powerjet. preferably packard setup.

good clutch set up with No locker.. mattoon billet basket, driveline HD clutch.. can add the 8th plate easily and driveline has a kit for this. add lockup to above for great budget drag clutch. budget doesnt matter? hinson spring loaded bilet basket with straight cut gears. drivelien HD clutch and lockup if needed. ultimate is to add the hinson boss and pressure plate as well. and of course all the above will require a bearing clutch pusher. want to keep the stock cover?? add a gigot undercover slingshot locker.. instead of aftermarket cover and std locker..

jolly jockeys make the best chassis testers..

i raced 2 j bikes for a few years back in the 90's and early 2000's never a problem one had +3 dentons and the other had +2's one bike ended up being one of my dune bike i lightend the frame and had no problems with it at all.

i still will say that the cheeta pv casting is far from obsolete. a 421 cub and a 421 cheeta pv motor side by side is in my opinion no comparision.. saying that a pv is not needed for drag racing tells me whoever said that dosent understand how they work or what they can do.. all i'm going to say.

looks like i have a buyer for my 485 for 3300..

on average i have 4-5 bikes to clean after a ride on the dunes.. i use a pressure washer, blown gun on 80 gallon compressor to dry it and then lube the chain. done. next.

you cheap ass fucks!! that looks like a hell of a nice bike for the $$$$.. if the owner is a ding dong so what you know what he means and you can surely go and look at it and decide for yourself..

if they are so advanced i'm not sure why they have to copy the design. not even sure who came up with th e original design of the dome they offer.. MAYBE since trinity is a sponsor now they could chime in and shed some light on this?? grand prix dome designs of the late 80's early 90's still work today and are much more suited to this type of a motor.. hell even the BOOK on file at MIT has more info on this i'm sure.. the old mx motor's and books i used to read on this subject talked about it lightly. from what i understand you can get everythign from M+M at least i'm pretty sure.. the red motor in their sig is a PV engine.. if i do finally open a full on shop i would like to specialize in that particular casting.. OR do much more with the twister cylinder. first i'd have to get one to try out..

had fun for sure!! check the weather i'd like to go when its nice..