jasonsb

Crank seized up between crank thrust washer(copper colored) and rod. This is the 2nd time this exact scenario has happened. The 1st time I figured it was because of a stock crank not handling the new power. I replaced the stocker last year with a hot rod +5mm long rod welded. Any tips on how I can prevent this same damage? Appreciate serious help/advice! Background on findings so far: pistons tiny pits but still good, cylinders not scratched, one rod seized at crank, cool head may have been leaking in cylinder...will have it surfaced along with cylinders.

I'm not running v-force. I have the stock cages with boyeson pro reeds. Is there a way to tell when your reeds need replacement? I will definitely try some jetting changes. Now that some of you mention 6th gear.... My bike screams in 2nd gear and pulls the front up through 3rd and 4th. But it kinda loses that dangerous torque in 5th and 6th. Yes I do run 22 inch 8 paddles in the sand. I have to keep it in 2nd gear duning up small hills.

I definitely do not have drag porting. Wicked Motorsports did the porting and they called it a "duner port". I've seen my cylinders bare and pictures of other drag cyclinder porting. Without welding or changing cylinders, Wicked Motorsports rated mine a Stage 2 on a Stage scale of 1-3. At first I even started with 34 pj carbs and could never get the jetting correct. The stock carbs with 330-340 jetting make the bike run great. By the way, whats wrong with T5 pipes? Should I be running different with my set up? I was also thinking about the floats but I have never messed with them. Can a bike react this way if the clutch is going out?

My banshee runs superb on flat level terrain from take-off to full throttle. When dragging in the sand, I pull up the front end and shift quick if I take off in 1st gear or have to ride the hell out of the clutch to take off in 2nd gear. If anyone knows about drag cars, its sort of like a car needing a stall converter in order to rev properly with a big cam. When climbing trail hills I have to keep it in low gear. Most of the time I have to keep the bike reving in 2nd or 3rd gear to keep the bike from bogging. It's hard to trace the problem since I had all my mods done at once a while back. (porting , adjustable timing set at +4, 19cc domes, T5 pipes, dual K&N, reeds, Long rod crank) These are some things I've tried or the settings I currently have: (330 mains, stock & up 1 size pilots, needle in middle & 2nd from top, 13 tooth sprocket, stock rear sprocket, half race/pump gas) ONLY MOD I HAVENT TRIED IS PUTTING TIMING BACK TO CENTER. Any help would be appreciated!

I purchased a long rod crank that I will be putting in soon. Will my carb jetting change and the timing change? I'm asking cause I know that the piston movement may be a little different now...but I'm not sure if it will change with a long rod alone. I know that a stroker may change things, but I'm not sure about a long rod by itself. Right now I'm running 350 mains with the stock crank. Thanks for any help!

I meant to say $80 for boring to the next size. The cylinder walls are real smooth...you cant really see the cross lines. I put in Wiseco pro lites last year but didn't do anything to the cylinders. I have never bored/honed the walls and I bought the bike used 2 years ago. I guess it's time to bore to the next size.

I'm rebuilding the entire motor from the crank to the pistons...How can you tell if you need to hone the cylinders to the next size? The walls look and feel smooth. The reason for the rebuild is a crank failure. I know it is safe to hone the cylinders but why spend the exrtra $80 if I don't have to. Is there a way to tell? Right now it is at 64.50.

I responded with a couple of pms. Did you get them?

Need a good crank to handle 65-70 horses. Thinking about longrod if the price is right. Main preference is a good stocker that has been trued/welded ready to go. Please don't refer me to ebay...I already know the money wanted on ebay.

I have a chance to buy a HotRod race crank (standared stroke). I've been told that it doesn't need to be welded because of the quality of the parts. Does anyone have experience with this?

Thanks for all the good responses. What I really need right now is to learn a little about long rod, stroker, and stocker cranks. What are advantages? What kind of horsepower differences? Reliability for duning? Can I still run stock carbs untill I save up and upgrade?

Why do some people try to sell bad cranks on ebay saying that it only needs a rebuild? I can get a fairly new crank for practically nothing. I can get it trued and welded. That's an option that won't cost a lot. What kind of power difference will a stroker or long rod give me? I used to run about 65 horses with a stock unwelded crank( dumb I know!). I've been seeing them on ebay between $350 - $450 (long rod kits/ strokers

I had a previous post "do you think it needs a top end?" and now I know what the extent of the damage to my bike. The crank bearings went to shit and scattered all over the inside of the motor. Now I need to fix/replace the crank, pistons, and cool head domes. What are my options? -can stock crank be fixed? trued and welded -how can I make it long rod or stroker? Which is better for the money? -Can I put long rods in a stock crank if the crank can be rebuilt? -Piston choice? Wiseco or Vito's -any other suggestions...I don't want to spend a shit load but I might as well do something now that my motors is out. See below to know what my bike has! I want to keep my bike 50/50 duner/drag

I think he's asking what the TORS removal Kit is? The kit will allow you to run the carb cable without the TORS system. You don't really need the whole kit. If you want to remove the TORS, just get new carburator tops and a new throttle cable. You don't have to buy the drill kit and screws. YOu can adjust your idle the good old fashion way...look at the slides through your carbs and adjust the top screws above the carb caps.

This piston is not too bad but it has a few dings in it.