lowriderb

for maybe running lower compression and timing, you could just try launching in 1st... 2nd gear doesnt always work out for every situation and if you dont adapt to the conditions then you wont win races.. also depending on the gearing, tire size, your weight, swing arm (for spin) ect.. different gears would be better.. if i remember right my 421 was running 180-190psi of compression, the timing was on 9 or 10 at the plate with the stock cdi.. the squish was a little tighter than .036 but i dont remember exactly what it was.. the motor liked the 38's i had on it as well and im sure if i geared it different i could have launched in 2nd with 22in tires..

the add sounds kinda dumb, "dont buy those big carbs you can only use in special surroundings" wtf? i thought everywhere we ride is a special surrounding.. they also look like knock off kehins..

you have a pm..

the areo tube arms are strong for straight lines, the side to side flex on those are the weak points.. the ladder style can be braced for most beating, but i never went off anything huge with the 10 over i used to have.. some minor jumps in oklahoma when i got to go.. with bearing and pivot tube in the one i had weighed in right at 7lbs.. mostly both are used for drag racing.. the strongest style that ive seen that will take the most amount of abuse is the round tube style swing arms.. they are a little heavier but its worth the strength..

the torque that motor makes is stupid, ive been told about a few people that have been raising the exhaust ports much higher than needed just to get the compression and torque down.. each motor is different and takes a different set up..

im pretty sure its going to be around a +11 or 12 out back and +28 or so out front, rigid drag chassis.. those numbers arent exact just yet..

just be sure to include the corrections made to the last one in the vids, like i posted in that thread do NOT put an extention through the rods to take either of the nuts off of the crank.. following the clymers on video would be best..

hopefully in the spring ill be able to get some vids of the 2 and 3 cylinder versions up.. if i can hold the camera while riding..lol

they are made by wiseco, i dont have the part numbers but they are made specifically for these cylinders...

here they are compared to the cubs.. stock (.040 over) pistons vs the 78's..

theres no reason to push that motor over 16k rpm's... it makes peak power in the 9-10k range.. also a good point that i was told about them is that they are so over built you could do pretty much what ever you wanted with it (power adder wise)..

i would deffinitly look to at least get a billet 2nd gear for the trans.. im sure its been covered before.. im going with a 1-5 on mine as well..

same subject.. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70401

when they talk about strokers they are talking about the total stroke, and normally they are talking about the total stroke added, the 4mm stroke would be 2mm up+ 2mm down.. making the total stroke now 58mm instead of 54mm total stroke..

they are cast pistons like stock, i wouldnt expect much performance out of them or to hold up to the beating a forged set could.. and yes ive ran them before too.. and i wouldnt run them again..

methanol is a dry chemical, it will eventually disolve brass (such as parts in the carbs) and aluminum.. that is eventually, not right away.. being that when it dries completely when it evaporates it will cause steel to rust unlike gasoline which is made from oil which when it evaporates leaves a sleight oily deposit on the steel keeping it from rusting.. when methanol evaporates it cools down, that is the advantage of the fuel.. the cooler running motor temps help with hp.. purging is when you run gasoline through the motor till it doesnt stay running anymore then your done.. drain the gas and hook the alcohol back up.. purging every day after running is overkill imho at the end of the weekend is tipically good enough unless your on a long trip..

crank bearings are a little tricky to change for the at home mechanic.. you would be best off bringing it somewhere to have them changed so the crank isnt damaged in anyway, also while its there have them true and weld the crank..

if your going to follow the thread dajogejr is talking about, read through the thread first to see the added comments from other people.. splitting the cases isnt hard to do, just be sure to have yamabond or threebond handy to put it back together.. and deffinitly a torque wrench..

usually you dont have to purge the bike every time you put it up.. i usually dont purge it till the weekend is overwith.. that way you dont have to keep changing plugs since when you purge with the gas it will foul them.. also ive always ran 36:1 ratio with gas and alcohol.. no change there either..

no, not at all stock cases nor the regular billet cases will fit a caracal type motor in it.. the caracal cases are as wide as tripple cases to fit both cylinders.. your talking about building a 15k+ motor that pretty much takes custom everything to run..

tipically alcohol likes compression and timing.. with kehin carbs they cant be converted back once they are converted to it.. mikuni carbs most can be converted back (tm's in particular for sure) and the power jet would just have to be shut off..

for a ti frame i dont think a stock geometry frame would be worth it.. a chromoly frame for 3500 and 3500 into the motor would make for a stronger running bike than a light chassis and stock (close to) motor.. besides a few of the ti chassis's that ive heard about people having have broken them at the stress points (spindle area of a'arms, motor mounts ect..).. where chromoly and mild steel doesnt tipically. also dragging takes just as much concentration and skill to ride a bike to potential as mx.. jumping isnt my thing either, i would rather be fast.. if anyone wants to try this out, go to a drag track, run your bike.. then get a good rider (that is familiar with your bike and how to drag) and let them run it.. garanteed .2's faster results at least..

for something like what your building it sounds like the boondockers kit would work best.. it is a dry system.. dry's can be easily reliable.. if later you wanted to swap it over to a wet system all you would need to get would be fogger nozzles, fuel pump, fuel solionoid for the major components needed..

you can get in touch with calvin pollet with cp industries about building one, but there is a waiting list, and it is at his preference wether or not you will get the opportunity to build it..

its not that a wet shot is harder on a banshee, its more violent when shot.. we put a 15shot (wet) on a 7mm stock cylinder.. when it was dynoed it hit 107-109hp.. when it was ran with the nitrous it would blow the tires away instantly... tried two different sets of tires (to make sure it wasnt a tire issue) with the same results.. i say grenade because there will be nothing useful left after.. running nitro is similar to runing nitrous but spraying it all the time. so it ends up being harder on crank bearings, pistons, ect.. than just running nitrous..