lowriderb

927 and benol are the common ones.. the ratio we usually run is like 32:1

nitrous and nitro are two different things.. nitrous yes my friends run it and i plan on running it on my big motor as well.. the wet shots yield more gain that the dry and are much more violent when its sprayed.. the dry set ups are tipically more forgiving than the wets as well.. nitro is short for nitro-methane basically its what the top fuel cars run.. with that i havent had the chance to mess with it just yet but i plan on it.. with this type of fuel additive if your tuning isnt spot on your motor will grenade.. more than likely im going to try the nitro out on a smaller motor before i put it on the bigger ones..

the different cuts in the trans depends on the bike that is being built.. a 1-4 works best with the smaller motors, launching in 1st and going through the traps in 4th geared for that. the bigger motors usually like to have 5th gear so the owner may decide to have 1-5 or 2-5 depending on rider and what gear they want to launch in.. with the really big motors they normally cut 1-5's launch in 1st just to get the bike rolling and then hammer 2nd gear.. the neutral down options are just personal preferences. the dunables are just what your going to be doing with the bike at that time..

you may have bent a shift fork..

out of 20 races with 20 different riders you didnt lose one race.. are you counting only 4 strokes or were there some other banshee's in there...and in those races did you line up with anything fast? or are we just internet racing now, and in that world nobody has ever lost a race..if thats the case then my bike has never been beat..and it dont even have carbs on it..lmao. the gimic pistons will not out perform the real thing.. simulate all the port work you want with them, i would think the original poster would be happier with the real thing.. the actual gain from them is minute when compared to the real thing, and you can get a set of regular pro lites, and have about 100 left over to put towards portwork which usually is running around 350 or so depending on what you get from where..

well since its been explained already why a vito's shitty ass piston design would snag an exhaust port.. or just break the skirt period i dont think ive got to re-affirm that.. the moron put namura pistons in his bike from what i found out (from his friend that put it together for him).. that i know of they dont make high compression pistons.. and i wouldnt trust the clearances of my motor to a vito's piston regardless of the pin offset to raise the compression. with purpose built motors your never going to see some sort of gimmic piston in those or my motors.. the guy that i work with HAS THE SAME FUCKING PLUGS THAT I HAD IN MY HAND AT THE TIME.. they were b8es plugs, he just thinks he has some special plugs... b8es plugs are not special is what i was saying nowhere did i say anything about the iridium plugs... also if you read what you wrote, you said that "the iridium plugs are anti-fouling.... its much harder to foul then the regular plugs." isnt that what anti-fouling means? so moron anything bright to touch up on seeing how you and him should meet and share motor building tips? who's the idiot now? :shoothead:

its 28 newton meters for both base and head...

if you think thats funny listen to this.. a guy i work with was trying to tell me he had a banshee with high compression pistons.. i started to tell him theres no such thing, and he proceeded to tell me i didnt know what i was talking about.. so i start telling him what ive built and what i have currently and tried to expain to him that there are no SUCH THING as high compression pistons for a 2 stroke.. :: the conversation ended when he told me that he buys special b8es spark plugs that make it not foul plugs.. (at this point i walked out to my truck and got a ngk b8es plug, which he agreed is what he runs :shoothead: ), i told him he was an idiot and had to stop talking to him for the night before his dumbness rubbed off on me... :shrug: without dumb people in the world, i dont think it would be as fun to be here..lol

if you have a mechanic putting this together then he should have the right mind to tell you not to run them.. they are cut on the exhaust side of the piston to simulate the exhaust port being higher than it actually is.. that is what they do.. pro lites with a port job is the way to go..

i would highly recommend you DO NOT get these pistons.. they are a waste of time and money.. save your money that you would have spent on these and get a real port job, you will be happier with the outcome and you dont have to worry about the pistons snagging the top of the exhaust port..

i havent seen anyone have to mod the needles with the lectrons either.. the pwk's dont seem to be as easy to tune as the tm's but thats just what i prefer more than the pwk's.. the lectrons are extremely easy to tune, the needle is only for idle and the rest is on the power jets..

im not entirely sure, till i found it the motor wouldnt run or would lean out till it got progressivly worse till it wouldnt run at all past idle.. it did it since i got the carbs so thats the only explanation of it that i could think of, found the nat and then ran great..now i dont need the carbs (go figure..) guess you can say the banshee's dont like the "nat mod" to the carbs..lol

5k if you only paid cost for the parts.. you dont need a billet trans for a 20mm a billet 2nd gear is deffinitly a must, the basket and straight cuts for it is 700 as well.. pipes, carbs, ect.. 5k for just the motor just isnt enough.. hell the cranks are like 1900 or so and the cases are 2400 thats 4300 right there..

a 709 is not a 18mm motor to start with.. what your talking about is the cheetah dm top end (78mm bore) the crank your wanting for a 709 is a 20mm.. the 18mm dm is a 688cc motor.. as a matter of fact ive got a 20mm crank and dm cylinders for sale as well right now...

a nat in the inlet side of the float valve on one mikuni carb will drive you nuts.. i got own3d by a nat for like 150 bucks worth of 795 series pistons.. ::

the cheetah's seem to like the bigger carbs so 38's may end up being on the small side anyways.. i ran the 38's i have on my 4mm cub.. imo i would go with the 14mm out of the two strokes.. that little bit more power is always nice to have.. i would also look into some 40-41mm carbs or so..

9 times out of 10 if the motor seized then it was probably operator error by either not tuning the motor or letting the motor warm up to operating temp before tearing off on it.. ive ran wiseco pistons in all of my motors and havent had one seize on me, though i have melted through a couple.. but thats a different story..

a 4mm cub is a good choice if the power can be used.. that deffinitly is a motor that can contend no matter where your at.. the stock lenth rods are 110mm and the long rods (for the stock on up to 10mm cranks) are 115mm's.. the angle the piston puts the rod in is less with the longer rod, so there is less force going sideways than verticle. putting less stress on the lower rod bearings, pistons, connecting rod, wrist pins and bearings.. the stock stroke crank is 54mm's of stroke, and the 4mm is 58mm's of stroke.. a 4mm cub in this situation would be a pretty wild motor, but that would be a fun ride..

i wouldnt get the v3 reeds imo, get your stock reeds ported and buy yourself a set of tdr's for them.. then take the 250 youd have left and get you some tires to hook up with your new found power..

really no reach around?? :ohmy:

that may be a little too much tire for just a piped banshee... though it may turn them it wont be effcient till you get more motor..

bigger than a 20 :biggrin:

Im selling a brand new 20mm crank (74mm stroke, 137.5mm rods) which has never been ran or taken out of the plastic. 1400 shipped also a brand new set of 20mm cheetah DM cylinders that are fresh from plating, have NOT been ported yet.. (this is the cylinders only).. 1100 shipped im selling them because i am going to go bigger before this is even built.. PM me for any more info you need on them.. B

ok, well since you guys like to stay slow.. i think ill just stick to the idea that im going to run dual carbs on my bike.. and that would be dual 40mm's like i said before if you wanted more bottom end then guy a damn 4 stroke and be done with it..

areodynamics? you know how much faster air flows over vinyl that just regular plastic?