lowriderb

anti-sieze!

the boost ports in the banshee's would not be big enough to flow enough to be worth the hassle.. they will not be as big as what is built into the cub cylinders.. or what is in the 250R's also for the cost of possibly ripping the ear off of the cylinder i wouldnt waste my time with them.. even if it were welded.. when it rips it will be across the base of the cylinder and through the primary transfers.. pretty much ruining the cylinders. then again both of the motors that ive seen this happen to were 95-109hp motors..

for a drag port i would raise a 350 up to around 198* exhaust duration.. 186-188 is around stock.. and the transfers to about 132...

with the stock cylinders i wouldnt do it.. to make the boost ports big enough to be worth while you will run the risk of cracking the ears off the cylinders.. imo i wouldnt cut them into the stock cylinders... also drag ported with 190* exhaust duration? that doesnt sound right..

aww come on dune.. if he goes for the overnite option you could get it to him..lol off topic: did you find out if you would be able to make it to the clash yet?

if your dragging then i would go with at the least a 2-5 override with a lock up.. but depending on what your actually going to be using it for then it may be easier to just keep the standard trans.. i havent heard of many people breaking 2nd gear in the stock trans.. there are things like billet 2nd gears that you may want to look into if you plan on launching in 2nd all the time.. though 1st gear starts only depend on if you are planning to launch in that gear or not..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-ADJUSTA...sspagenameZWDVW

the bigger power adder would deffinitly be a wet system (nos ect.), the "safer" system is the dry system (boondockers).. if its up to me the two different set ups cost about the same, i would go with the wet system and run a rectifier to the battery so it will keep the charge.. that way you dont have to worry too much about charging the battery while out in the dunes.. and once the nitrous system is tuned in you will gain more power for the size shot..

wet or dry shot, what fuel? the wet kits your going yeild more power than the dry.. they are also the less forgiving.. with a wet kit, a tipical jet spread for gas would start about 4-6 steps up for the fuel.. say 12 nitrous jet with a 16 fuel jet.. methanol the tipical spread is 6-8.. the nos kits have a chart for the approx hp gain from the jets included with the kit..

the basket and gears i bought straight from hinson..which was the newer style with the springs not cushions and that was shipped.. http://www.hinsonracing.com/store/product.html?prod_id=20 depending on the carbs you buy will cost more.. for the next set of carbs im buying i will be going with lectrons, directly from lectron set up for alcohol.. http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/ the cranks are priced from twister.. http://www.twistercrankshaft.com/cranks.htm case work is an average of different places.. trans work is an average of different places.. assembly is an average of different places.. the 14mm cub that my friend built went some 3.80's without the bottle (he is 135lbs), as well was spinning alot of the track from too long of a swing arm (+11) with a wheelie bar.. the bike weighed about 255lbs (suspended chassis). the only reason he took the top end off (which i listed for sale, for what he told me to list it for) was because he is getting a different top end.. and at the very beginning of the post i said "if youve got the money to spend" meaning if your going to pay to go bigger here is what your looking at..

if youve got the money to spend i would look to get a billet crank.. as well as supporting parts to make the 10mm run.. billet crank (10mm) about 850-900 (estimate) 10mm cubs 1100 (long rod) carbs 500 (rouge estimate) pipes 560 trench work 550 cub domes 75 (cool head/noss machine) billet basket with straight cut gears 620 override trans 375 (1-5) lock up 320 assembly 175 (estimate) properly set up you should run harder out of the hole and pull through faster than the 4mm's.. another thought to add to it would be to possibly go with a little bigger stroke like a 14mm cub (which run very hard) the only difference would be the cost of the crank (about 1600), case work (1100), and domes cut for the stroke.. going bigger past that would only cost the difference would be the crank (1800 or so), cylinders (2900-3600 depending), billet 2nd gear 330 (at least), bigger carbs would be needed (aprox. 700), pipes (about 600).. if your on an extreme budget and still want cubs, you could do a 4mm cub and just get carbs, pipes, override, billet basket, lockup ect..

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66498

if after checking the tors and parking brake systems.. the carbs are clean and in sync the reeds are there, the filters clean.. swap cdi's with yours and see if it still does it..

cylinders should run about 900, and the crank should be around 450.. so 1350 for you to install the crank and cylinders.. as well as needing bb domes, i had good luck with the small bore cpi's, and cubs like bigger carbs.. i would run at the smallest 36mm carbs.. and ive found that 38's ran the best for me..

first thing i would decide would be what budget your going to work with. once you decide what you want.. a 10mm for trails would be a bit much, but not out of the question by no means.. for drags the 10mm with a well thought out set up will run better than a 4mm but that will come down to rider ability in the drags as well.. if your going to stick with the stock cylinders and still want a bigger stroke you could consider a 7mm.. that would hit right in the middle line of the other two cranks.. if your going bigger than you could do a 10mm cub, once you go to the aftermarket cylinders they all cost around the same (cub vs cub ect..) but you also have to think about all the supporting parts your going to need to make each different motor run and the costs of that as well.. with the bigger motor your going to have to replace parts to begin with or after they wear out.. like for instance your clutch basket.. the 4mm may not be too hard on it, but your 10mm will ect.. for a tight budget i would get a 4mm stock cylinder, some 35 or 36mm carbs (intakes for them), and inframe pipes.. run the stroke through the cylinders and have them ported for your riding style.. that shouldnt cost but about 1000-1400 depending on what deals you make and what you sell off your current set up.. if you have an unlimited budget... well thats a different story..lol

one piece intakes are sold as well.. the 14paddle tires are 425 shipped now as well..

i posted these up before but here you go.. the 4mm was mine.. http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-7-or-10mm-stock-cyl http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-10mm-trex http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-350-banshee

the dirt digger clutches dont usually last too long with a good bit of power to them.. though ive been running barnett steels and springs with stock fibers with a lockup with no problems for a while.. when my new motor is done ill see how this set up holds up to alot more power..

you would have to run a battery to run the system.. there is a rectifier that you can adapt to your stock electrical system to keep the charge on the battery.. like sheefreek said the boondockers dry systems are safer than a wet system like the NOS system.. if you have stock pistons and such with your crank not welded i wouldnt recommend either system till those have been changed..

small bore pipes are sold! thanks

ive got two sets of mikuni tm 38's (acohol) one set was ran on my 4mm cub, the other on a 14mm cub, $375 a set. two sets of intakes, one is trinity intakes that were put on the 14mm for 4 rides $140.. the other are boss intakes (i think) and were bought about a year ago $100. two sets of cpi out frame pipes, the first set are big bore that are new (4 rides) $500, the other set are non stamped small bore, the stinger has broken off on the stator side pipe and was tig welded back $200. also one set of 22x12x8 14paddle extremes that were used on the 14mm cub, 2 trips (the nipples are still on them) $425. pm me for any other info if you need it..

yeah i figured it was.. but either way there are a few of our bikes that have stepped up and are going to be built for it..

well invite him to run in sand over at sicily island for the clash this coming october.. im sure that we'll have some pretty stiff competition for what ever bike this is..

youve got mail..

lol they usually got to start with the small bikes first... and work their way up to the biger bikes.. :biggrin: