lowriderb

im having to get some different parts for the motor im building so these have to go towards the new ones.. i have a brand new (2nd time out of the box to take pics) hinson clutch basket with straight cuts new is 700 without shipping.. im asking 650 for it.. used direct drive clutch cover with new billet quick change cover and new lock up.. asking 270 also here is a billet 3 piece stator cover, im asking 170 for it as well.. these prices are shipped as well.. pm me if you need anymore info..

to fit stock cases the whole mating surface has to be reworked and resurfaced to fit the cylinders.. the front and rear of the transfers will be open on both the inner and outer transfers.. as well as having to be bored to fit and the center stud adaptor on the intake side didnt fit all the way into the cylinders.. i hope you have your machinist on standby..lol

here's a pic for a 10mm.. mine will bea little different stretch.. but will be similar..

they run about 3400 for the chassis (steering assymbly included), wheelie bar and fuel tank.. to make it a roller you would just need to put an axle in with tires and put spindle mounts on the front... in a couple of days ill get some pics of my new chassis if you wanna see..

if your just going to sell them, they are worth more to you as virgin cylinders..

ive ran the stock ignition on alcohol for a long while, the only difference was i ran b9es plugs.. with a timing plate i set it anywhere from 6-10 degrees advanced.. another alternative past the dana boxes would be a pvl.. that is a direct fire ignition that doesnt use a cdi..

ok.. kickstarter locked up... take the head loose and kick it as hard as you can?? wtf kind of thinking is that?? you have no idea what you could be doing to some of the other parts in there if its something in a bind that you dont want screwed up any worse.. start with the easiest things first.. pull the side cover off and see if anything is not right.. then work towards the top end if nothing is found under there..

like i said i would pull the clutch cover off and see if theres anything in there that is not right... the next thing i would do is pull the top end of and see whats what in there if there isnt anything under the clutch cover that is wrong.. im sure there are some pics of what everything is supposed to look like around here..

it sounds like it locked up.. from where theres not telling, but if the bike was brand new and your ripping on it then it may be the top end.. first think i would do is pull the clutch cover off and see if its not something under there that is the problem..

i have ran stock carbs converted to alcohol on my 350 stock cylinder on up to the 38mm carbs i ran on my 4mm cub.. you do not go through twice as much oil as you do with gas, i have mixed mine at 32:1 ratio since i started running alcohol, think of it like this, there is twice as much fuel being put into the cylinders that would equate there would be twice as much oil now too, not premixed just becuase of what is in the fuel already.. you do have to purge your bike, some people go overboard with it and purge every day after riding, this i believe is not needed by a long shot.. go riding for the weekend, purge the bike when you get home (i normally purge my bike with 97pump fuel at 32:1) the carbs do need power jets in them for tuning it in.. the power jets are auxillary jets put on the filter side of the slide in the carb.. there are a few different types out there from some that use actual jets in them to adjustable ones that have a needle type screw in them.. and aggressive dune port would do fine on alcohol.. just keep an eye on your gas tank..

its deffinitly a fun ride.. it will carry the wheels at least half track on motor (before it was tuned in on the dyno) not just the power output but the weight of the whole bike is what makes it upsetting for many that have lined up with it..lol it weighs right at 135 without the bottle on it and right at 140 with it on.. heres a little more info on it and at the bottom there is a link to some vids of it.. http://cpcustoms.com/blasterdragchassis.htm

xr: the first couple of runs on the dyno were deffinitly less than impressive.. when you ran it last fall it may have only been putting down about 45hp/28tq, after about 30mins of tuning on the dyno it was pushed up to the 58hp/35tq.. then the spray was tuned in which when you ran it, it wasnt doing anything either.. socallinit: thanks.. once the motor is fixed from all the leaks i would imagine this little motor could hit up to 80hp on the spray..still with the same bore and stroke..

mixing 50/50 race fuel with gas doesnt make your bike run better with the compression at 150 and timing at +4, he may not need that.. you only want to go to higher octane fuels if you have to, that would depend on if it were detonating while running good ole 97 octane.. the gearing would deffinitly effect your run and deffinitly how hard your spinning the tires.. but i would change the front sprocket before the back (they are cheaper to begin with).. changing the front would be the same as chainging 2-3 teeth on the back (opposite of each other..)

you could put a spring loaded roller on your bike.. that would keep the tension on the chain like you want.. im under the impression that they designed some of these parts while drunk.. or at least to make fun of americans..lol here's the pic of my dm cylinders compared to a set of 7mm cub cylinders (same size intakes as stock)..

going by your sig, if you have a ported piped and properly tuned motor you should at least be pulling away from them with stock gearing running 22in 4 snows (once you start hooking).. if the port work is questionable pull the head off and measure from the top most edge of the jug to the top most edge of the exhaust port, also take note of the shape of the exhaust port.. that will give you a good idea to what extent the jugs are ported to..

i dont think the bigger chain will bind under too much of a load, especially if your going to be running 15 tooth and up sprockets.. having rollers on the shift forks could help, but the better design to prevent them from bending is what i would be interested in for sure..lemme know if you want a guinea pig for them :biggrin: ive seen the shift drum be force out of the cases (clutch side) on just 14mm strokes so im really ganna have to watch this big motor with doing that closely..

in distance you should be the 450's pretty easily, once you get into around 3rd or 4th gear.. banshee's shine on top end... the chassis set up on the 450's is better suited for all around riding to begin with, the banshee's suspension is 20+ years old.. but dollar for dollar your going to go faster on the banshee than any other 4 stroke..

cutting the dogs off the trans gears is normally done when you are cutting for an override.. to finish the override the drum would need to be cut as well. the shift star should be your first (also easiest) part to get at for hard shifting.. the next thing you should deffinitly look into is if your shift shaft is still in adjustment.. that could make things difficult too..

yeah i know what you mean about the name of the cylinders..lol, but hey i would call them grilled cheese as long as they run hard..lol billet shift forks?? hmm.. that sounds pretty interesting there.. the chain should be easy.. i would deffinitly go to the 530 chain, they are a little heavier than the 520's but by the time you pay for two 520's you could have bought all the different size sprockets and one chain for the 530.. (the 530 is what i am going to be running as well) the front sprockets are 25 each, the rears aroun about 65 or so each.. the chains are made to stand up to street bike powers for the oem chains and the good aftermarket chains are good enough for the 500+ hp busa's so i think im not going to be breaking this chain..

firehead: good luck with the build of your motor.. i deffinitly wish i had the ability to make my own trans and such.. maybe you could build the next billet trans with a 1-5 or 1-6 for the asphalt guys.. i forgot to add earlier that "DM" stands for dominant male as well..

malott1 is right on.. ill take a pic of my dm's tomorrow when i get back where they are.. the smaller cheetah's are 73 and 74.5mm bores, and the dm's are 78mm bores.. the dm's were started for the big stroke monsters but now there are some that are coming out for the 4-10mm strokes as well.. different port layout but 78mm bores.. there is ALOT of case work to be done in order to make the dm's fit on the stock cases!!

at local races tripples arent too common but they are out there and do show up from time to time.. the laydowns are hitting awsome times, but with a well designed rigid upright chassis you should be able to run with them (given the power output is around the same..)..the huge twins are running with them now as well.. cc's of the motor may help with the classing, but a smaller motor may run harder with a better set up and tune than a bigger motor with a half assed set up..so that would be another point to consider as well. in a suspended chassis your adding weight back that you already didnt want to have with just the suspension components (even if its strutted, there is still weight there that you dont really want) on a given race day though you may end up being the only or one of two tripples at your track (depending on the area). so your class may not be as big as you would like to see.. either way its still interesting to see one run and run well.. what sort of tripple are considering building? imo i would look into the banshee cased style tripple more than the sno-mo stlye, because i would rather that type of set up.. that is all personal opinion though..

what you saw at sicily island isnt anything... the spray set up was only used once (vids were posted a while back) and it wasnt doing anything.. now itll be on.. :biggrin:

"tipically" the bigger tripples are on laydown chassis'.. the "smaller" tripples (if theres a such thing..lol) are normally the banshee style ones in the atv type chassis.. right now there are a few 18mm tripple dm's out there that would be in the 0-1324cc class with you..

yup, that is the one.. its already been decided that the basket needs to be changed (this is the third or 4th basket its grooved to the point of no return).. also some other work is going to have to happen to fit another fiber in the clutch pack..