lowriderb

cpi's will out perform toomey's in the power dept. out of frame pipes will make more power than inframes..

if you paid through paypal file a claim before 30days passes (thats when you cant file a claim anymore) describe in that the whole story and send it.. paypal will handle it and if they dont respond (which ive had a couple of sellers try to get around) paypal will conclude no contest to mediation and award you a full refund (without paypal fee's) in 7 days. the only way for the sell to get out of it would be to respond through paypal and if they plan on sending out items they have to provide paypal with a tracking number for proof.. and even still the claim is open till you close it like that..

are you running a pingel? then 479's suggestion is easiest.. or with the pingel you could aim it towards the carbs more so that the fuel outlets are facing more towards the center.. with the stock petcock run the tee lower towards the carbs and run the right side shorter so the tee is more in the middle of the motor..

pics for wellsy

then there should be plenty of room, unless your pipes start reaching into the area where the boost bottle/x-over tube used to be...

4mm stroker.. much more torque made with the stroker, and you dont have to bore out your cylinders to .080 over.. and waste all the good bored you have between where ever your at now and that...

email them to me and ill post them for you.. [email protected]

its either a 4mm with a stock bore (.040 over will be a 379cc) or a bigger bore on the stock sleeve..

take off the boost bottle.. there instant room..

im sorry but they are "twin" cylidners not "similar" cylinders.. ive never jetted one side different than the other... if they are needing different state's of tune for each side then there has to be a problem seeing how they are supposed to be exactly the same.. could the stock carb on the right side have something clogging the fuel inlet, or main jet.. outside of that i would search for an air leak somewhere down the line..

im meaning from when your sitting on the bike (left is stator side and right is clutch side) the stator side would be open to air, the clutch side would be open to the crank case oils.. the reason why i would suggest getting the cub cylinders over putting in the big bore sleeves in the stock cylinders is because it would cost about the same total (sleeves installed and port matched)

where the flow goes depends on how the fuel lines are ran, with the stock petcock the tee can be pointed more towards on carb more than the other (more vertical) and the liquid will flow where there's least resistance.. which can lean towards either carb. a crank seal that would cause an air leak would be the left side, the right side would be burning oil.. blown head gasket (stock head) is possible (if no air leaks were found anywhere else, check the base/intake gaskets as well) if the bike were to run out of coolant (which would be blowing out of the over flow) it would lean out because there wouldnt be anything there to seal against. blown o-ring (aftermarket head) would be about the same as a blown head gasket.. the big bore sleeves will cut down big time on the transfer area in the stock cylinders.. also for the cost of it you could get a cub setup (or similar cylinder setup)

im pretty sure the hinson pressure plate is a direct replacement for the stocker... when you put the plate on is it pressed against the fibers all the way like the stocker did?

see about doing a leak down test searching for an air leak, it does sound like you leaned out did you change anything thing with the tuning since the weather has changed? and here is what people use for an aftermarket petcock http://www.pingelonline.com/hex_dual_race.htm they are about 80 bucks shipped from them, and very worth it so you dont have to worry about not getting any fuel..

blasterhq went down a while back, that is the new one that has pretty much exceeded it.. if everything is torqued down all the way around on the cylinder, you may have to use some rtv between the cylider and the exhaust flange..

blaster site = planetblaster.org thats alot of oil for the mix, even with alcohol we only run 40:1 the seal your looking for is inset into the bolt on neck of the cylinder.. see if that one got put back in since the bore.. (new top end gasket set should have one in it also).

have you checked the reeds? also what did you gap your plugs to? for what fuel?

on top of a leak down, were you letting the bike get fully warmed before taking off on it? also are you sure that the bore wasnt too tight for the pistons? as well as getting fuel to that side carb? (running stock petcock) what were you doing when it seized?

the stock carbs can be ran without a powerjet, thats basically what grr was adding with the jets in the side of the carbs your describing... i wouldnt run them like that for 20 bucks each you can get a mikuni power jet assymbly and it will be easier to tune the carb without worry of stripping out the hole for that jet.. depending on the motor the stock carbs and pj34's can be set up without powerjets, i dont remember exactly if you have to drill out the fuel inlet any, the dump tube/main jets are going to be drilled.. without the powerjets they will be drilled a little bigger than with them (for the added flow).. with my stockers the mains were drilled so you can see the threads on the inside of the jets (without power jets) so you can get an idea of how big they would be.. id have to look at a stock carb again to remember if the fuel inlet needs to be opened up.. also to be on the safe side doing this i would get a pingel.. the stock petcock may work with the stock carbs for the shorter distance runs but for longer hauls i wouldnt feel safe with it..

your best bet would be to degree it and find out what the durations of each the transfers and exhaust are, then figure out what the blow down is. you also want to look up what roof angles people have had best luck with (there was a big thread on it a long while back on planetsand) then figure out the width of the exhaust relative to the bore (73% is about the max for a reliable set up that wont eat rings)..

like few said before as long as it says on the bottle it mixes with alcohol then you could run it.. the common two are benol and castor 927. you also have to convert your carbs so it will flow the fuel to run it..

also if your looking for drag handle bars you can get the same ones that are on ebay for 10 bucks.. http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/...11A1C7020A6EF2D

got some pics?

ive ran 927 and klotz (both only because they mix with alcohol) with no problems out of either oil.. the only reason we run klotz now is because its red and you can see its mixed easier than 927 in a jug..

there are plenty of builders out there that can handle what your wanting to do without any problems, the best thing to do would be to call up a few of them and talk with them about what your wanting to do. if they sound like used car salesmen then dont buy from them and call the next place ont he list..