lowriderb

lol.. some people like the shiney's..

a timing plate is a timing plate.. there is no difference in performance between the two plates..

the cast pieces arent bad.. like others said use a little locktite and snug the screws down.. i ran a cast plate for years on my different motors till i went to a pvl.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-YFZ3...sspagenameZWDVW

who built it, what wall thickness was it, what was it built for, was it steel or chromoly (and what style carrier was it for) and what was he doing with it when it did break? aero tubing was not meant for side action, if square tubing gets in a pinch it will fold over, round tubing seems to only bow or bend when hit hard enough with that lateral much force.. then also it would depend on how it was gusseted and or welded as well..

actually the twisters have more conservative port timings than the cubs do starting out.. like i said though if you have the funds (about 3k or so) for the top end and crank for the twisters i would go for it.. the cheetah's are next in line at about 2500 or so with the crank, then the cubs are third at about 1800 or so (with a 10mm crank).. all the cranks im talking about are billet cranks also and there are different options that will change the prices up some..

its a twist and thumb throttle assembly..

also make sure that the swing arm is chromoly, its stronger and lighter than steel...

it would also depend on how its made, supports and such that are on the arms.. i havent seen a round tube arm break yet either..

mini twisters are a complete top end, comparable to the big cheetah's.. the cubs may be cheaper but the power is in the twisters.. the cubs are cheaper because its only the cylinders.. my 10mm mini hit 131hp/70tq with no porting done at all (best time of 3.62@89mph(spray) 3.74@80mph (motor) in oklahoma) (soon to see what more it may have in it).. my 4mm cub (sold now) hit 106hp/53tq with porting, a 4mm big cheetah hit 120hp/62tq with alot of porting (best time of 3.91@76mph at planetsand drags) the cubs dont have power valves, i dont think that it was an option on the mini's either.. the big cheetahs can have them (optional).. the minis are at the top for price, cheetah's, then the cubs.. the full top ends at more expensive than the cubs (which use stock parts like reed cages and head).. imo if your going to do a motor and have the funds go with one of the full top ends and have all the right accessories for that motor..

check to make sure nothing shifted like the drum retainer clip or something like that.. about the same thing happened to my friends 14mm and the retainer for the shift drum broke from the axial pull on the drum and from cases flexing with it..

another option for a lower front and not going to struts would be a pair of 300ex shocks.. those heims are huge on those struts..

another thing to consider would be to split your cases and have your crank trued and welded so it doesnt come apart that would be for reliability.. then you could run some 19cc domes and just be on the verge of having to mix a little race fuel, though i have ran more than 150 psi of static compression before on pump fuels the general rule of thumb is around 150 you want to start mixing if its detonating.. all the different heads do pretty much the same things.. the billet heads (cool head, noss, rk tek, ect..) advantage would be the interchangable domes.. if you dont have the funds to get a new one find a used shell with studs (if needed) and just get some domes and o-rings. polish it up and your good to go..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...p;rd=1&rd=1

chromoly with a round house would be the only way to go.. weight of the arm would be the next thing.. if its not in the 7-8lbe range its heavy for a drag arm..

if the 9 extremes are what was on there why not go back with the same tires.. if your wanting to try something different with the tires, you may want to just borrow a friends set to try out if they are a different roll out or paddle number or type..

a dealer just told a guy i met that it was normal for a banshee to shoot flames out the silencers.. and that banshee's only run if they are wide open too.. :thumbsup: good thing they guy had his thinking cap on and called around for some second opinions on that flame idea.... they also told him that putting pipes on a banshee wouldnt do anything performance wise and not to rejet it when he did..

cast pistons (yamaha/namura) are prone to failing once they get any time on them.. if your going to pay yamaha's price tag on pistons you aught to get a set of wiseco's and not worry about it..

wiseco pistons would be the only ones i would run, you can find top end kits (pistons and gasket set) for about 150 or so..

they also make a coil over version for duning ect.. you can still set the shock up how you like it you just have the luxury of running the shock a little softer to let the spring do its work..

ok sure..

while you have the cases split checking out your shift forks, check the shift drum between the two gears that your having trouble getting into, also check to see that your shift shaft is within adjustment.. with the drum check the slide grooves for any knicks along the sidewalls..

thats pretty much what i was meaning when i said something else wrong with the gears.. the billet 2nd gears that are being made are all be manufactured by the same company so it really doesnt matter where you get one from if you do decide to pick one up..

i think all the billet 2nd gears are made by the same company, you can have a stock bike screw up 2nd gear.. it would just depend on the gears themselves..

unless they changed how to put more steel in the sleeve then, the sleeve is a bigger diameter than the stock sleeve, the extra space area being taken up has to go into the transfer port area as well making the transfers smaller.. there are a few different types of sleeves out there so someone may have wised up and started making the sleeves thinner at that may mean you get less bores out of that big bore sleeve..

for the cost and performance a set of cubs would out work a bb set of stock cylinders... for cost only get the stockers ported and you will be happy with the results.. the bb i wouldnt go to unless you ruin a sleeve.. for the technical side, when you put a bb sleeve into a stock cylinder the transfer ports are made smaller and cannot be cut enough to even get it back to stock size unless you plan on welding on the cylinders.. then you can get some room back but still not as much.. the rest of the ports would stay pretty much the same.. a bb sleeved motor will run well but not as well as a stock sleeved motor if both tuned properly given that the port specs are equal.. what i would do if you are wanting to do something that will use 400-500 skins would be to get a 4mm crank instead of bb sleeves and then have the stock head cut and rechambered with the port job.. that would end up costing about the same as putting in big bore sleeves into the stock jugs, and will net you more power in the end..