lowriderb

here's something to look at.. this is the lock up on the blaster.. this is NOT enough weights.. but here's what it did with these weights..the black line at the top is to shows the slippage of the clutches as it gets higher. motor.. nitrous.. theres deffinitly more to be had, with the motor to still be fixed much less being able to put the crank power to the trans..

heres a graph of The blaster.. so far on motor its ran (fastest time of a blaster that ive ever heard or seen) of a 4.61 backed up with a 4.57 (no spray) it has some issues to be worked out like the head gasket leaking, something leaking out of the cases (air leak), not enough weights on the clutches.. on the spray.. (i had to print it out and scan it, my printers almost out of ink so it came out pink..)

as far as the jjanda axles they stand behind their work.. i havent seen anyone break them at the keyway's jet, the busa powered bikes should be putting out way over 200hp for them to consider breaking.. most all the splined axles that ive seen ended up twisting on the bigger motors, but that doesnt mean anything of the gt performance axles (i havent seen one of them). the splined axles ive seen do this were the lsr ones..

the carbon ones i was reffering to were the v3's..

tdr reeds are very good.. im not too fond of the carbon fiber reeds.. they tend to break when you least want them too..

the 800's are pretty damn quick for being a 4x4 with auto.. for a stock banshee you better be on your game 125% in order to out run it..

with alcohol we mix klotz at 40:1, depending on the motor set up the main/dump tube in the carb should be around a .110-.116 the power jets would just depend on the type used.. the ring gap on the two strokes isnt usually widened like they would on 4 strokes.. the compression is controled mainly through the head/dome design, for an asphalt bike i probably wouldnt run more than 150 or psi.. for your suspension you could get some struts or marvin shaws and drop it to the ground.. you probably also want to get a much shorter arm for asphalt.. maybe a 4-6 over.. thats 12 is going make you spin soo much out of the hole.. also i would consider getting some american racers or hoosiers and getting a wheelie bar.. hope this helps you out..

dune: she's getting to the point now that its about to happen.. pretty soon i think its ganna be her piloting the blaster in front of the crowd again.. :thumbsup: theshee: 421's are deffinitly potent motors.. 4.0's in a stock frame with that size motor is doing pretty good, sub 4's in the stock frame isnt heard of either.. drag chassied 421's are running very hard too..

yup thats the one..

when they made the second run it was the first time craig had ever tried to spray that motor.. it was a close race if i remember right, the 400 was only around a bike or so behind.. with tuning and stuff still to be done its going to be a strong runner for sure..

with stock jugs and no spacer plate the 4mm should have the pistons coming to a positive deck height..

dune: wheres the vid of that "400" getting beat by a blaster?? lol and yes not a motor swap.. a blaster with blaster cases, blaster cylinder, trans, ect.. :biggrin: needless to say it did end up going into 4.5's without the spray.. its still a damn blaster!! also i cant wait till the clash, we can line up my new bike with the "400"..lol dont worry ill give him a head start.. :thumbsup: http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p316/Du...mgAnch=imgAnch3 http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p316/Du...mgAnch=imgAnch2

wet kits spray nitrous and fuel (sprayed together, nitrous is "wet") directly into the cylinders, alot more power, and less reliability (gas jet differences are usually around 4 jet sizes, alcohol are about 10 tipically *fuel being the larger jet).. electronics are needed like a fuel pump, battery ect.. you could call summit racing and have them set you up with a twin cylinder motorcycle system for about 600.. dry systems (boondockers) sprays nitrous into the cylinders, at the same time it bleeds pressure into the carbs forcing more fuel to flow out of the carbs. there is fuel added with the dry systems, just not directly..(hense the nitrous is "dry") also there is less power made with them, but the reliability is higher..usually only a small battery is used for the nitrous solinoid, the rest is pneumatic.. both systems can be used with alcohol, they just need to have much more fuel added to the system for it.. nitromethane is a whole different story, basically be prepared to buy a few pistons and bores before you get it right.. nitro is hard on everything, because its like spraying the motor with nitrous all the time.. being hard on the pistons and cranks.. getting nitro right will take time and tuning, you will need ALOT more fuel than methanol..

not to sound concieted or anything, when i was running the 10 over arm on my 4mm cub with 22in 12paddles (frame and everything were as light as possible with the stock frame) i was at 265, now im going to be running a much larger motor with only a 11 over stretch 25in 16 extremes and i now weigh in at 194.. so im looking for it to hook hard as hell..

hell i saw one set of guys (if there were more morons in a group anywhere else i would have to challenge that ) probably 3 or 4 bikes with bars made of carbon steel.. needless to say each bar was bent like noodles.. and what was up with the wheelbarrow wheels?? :thumbsup:

thats pretty much on any surface.. a down south you dont see many if any 14 over arms on any bikes unless its something huge.. hell my bike is only going to have an 11 over stretch out back on it... with a bar too..

easy solution without spending money.. cut the springs on the slides.. a few coils at a time till it gets comfortable for you.. make sure they both are even as well.. :thumbsup:

depends on the surface your running on.. down here that combo would net you losses left and right.. because it would just spin most of the way down the track.. hell with the 10 over i was running on my 4mm cub it was sometimes too long with 12 paddle ul's all depending on the surface it was being ran on.. the idea is to get out long enough to prevent you from flipping over or pulling up uncontrollably.. any longer and your just spinning the tires too much.. too short and your going to have problems launching..

run premium pump fuel for a stock motor.. with the minor mods that your talking about you should still be able to run premium pump fuel still.. do NOT run 87.. the stock motors are not designed for it..

alcohol likes compression and timing, tipical alcohol settings are in the 170+ psi of compression and around +8 or so of timing.. starter fluid would work to start it as well.. or a squeze bottle of alcohol.. wtf is it with no air filters.. do they stop filtering air at different temps.. if they do thats news to me..

+4 timing on alcohol.. :shoothead: no air filters.. :thumbsup: drag port with only a +4 arm.. :yelrotflmao: that couldnt have been that fast of a bike.. this goes to show bike set up plays a huge part in going fast..

if its only going to be hill shooting the two different arms your talking about would be fine.. chromoly is the type of material the arms are made of..

i know that port work will lower the compression, misnumbering the domes is a very sleight possibility but i doubt it.. decking the cylinders or having no port work would be the only way i could see that much compression with the domes you say you have.. even then i would question it.. have you tried more than just the one compression tester, no matter the brand you have it could be out of calibration.. the dealer could have dropped it ect.. ect.. if your willing to pay me for my time then ill be happy to show up to check the compression on your bike.. also i wouldnt recommend going with that high of compression with a bone stock crank, they are known to come apart even after trueing and welding it i would think your on borrowed time with it because of the stock lower rod bearings and outer bearings.. also i forgot to mention, with the swing arms, if you want to change arms you aught to think about swaping over to a round housing carrier as well, it makes it easier to adjust your chain when you need to..

20cc domes with 190psi of compression? have your jugs been decked and do you have port work.. that is pretty much the only way i could see that much compression with that size dome... unless your running a big bore set up then that may change the idea some.. on an unwelded crank you are asking alot, on a stock welded crank you are probably still asking alot out of the stock bearings, but they will hold for a little while as well.. to the original poster: a +4 arm should help you control when your bike comes up pretty easily if your bike wheelies redily all the time.. jumping with any swingarm could be dangerous, but like was said i would stay away from the lighter style arms.. round arms are the stronger of the styles..

properly jetted? each and every bike situation is different, how do people settle for a bench tuned a motor and not fine tuned one after its running? for a stock bike and buying carbs, your coming off the money anyways why not get some 33 pwks or something like that.. then you have a decent sized carb, that you can build into and still not need to buy a new set..