97Screamer
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Everything posted by 97Screamer
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I hear that. I usually hoard parts til I have everything I need then tear into it. Build the stock stoke for now and then the 4mil when you have all the pieces back and ready.
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They work on Works also. I have them on a set of Works and a rear Elka. I have also used them with Axis shocks. In all cases I added a rubber strip for a tight fit.
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You cramming a DM in that roller Kawa?
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This one is all you Tony!
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Sounds good. Old style AC does not need to be kicked with the heel though, there is a recess in the heel guard just like the stock ones to allow for proper kicking. That is the exact reason I sought them out over the xfr. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
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XFR definitely have the heel kick issue. I have an extra set of the aluminum heel guard style AC propegs if you're interested Gusto. Only problem is they are stored at my buddies house 100 miles away and I couldn't get to them for a couple weeks.
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You need to do a compression check to answer that. 20cc will be close to the limit but every motor is different. I'd also run stock timing with that small of domes on 91.
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I use the same as Tyler, they are nice. If you just want the worm clamp and bushings I might have some extra ones floating around.
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Sucks man! Simple Green has never done me wrong.
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Oh no, the oil debates have migrated from FB to the forum.
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Yep, that's the shop I bought some from. High quality, I'm happy. Again not an exact match but I didn't care about that.
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MacDaddy sells good stuff, I wouldn't hesitate to buy.
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There is a shop on eBay that sells most year reproduction graphics for under $100. They are not perfect but pretty close. This would be the most economical option if you don't need an exact match.
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All sold, please delete
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Billet water pump drive gear
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I'm on my phone with Tapatalk now and sure enough all the chrome bike pics are there... Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
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https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/for/d/2002-yamaha-banshee-fully/6742772342.html
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Oh damn, weird. I don't see any of the chrome bike in this thread on my computer. That one is for sale too, I see it on Craigslist, $5500 I think.
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Weird, is it still like that? On mine I only see the orange j-arm bike.
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I bought a bike with a Ricks cdi and it ran fine. I switched it to oem for piece of mind though. They are cheap enough you might want to consider it as I've heard of people whose bikes wouldn't run or run poorly with the real cheap ones. In a pinch you can back out the pins on the plugs with a jewelers flathead screwdriver and swap cdi. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
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There are three jetting circuits you'll need to set independently. That write up above talks about them also. Pilot circuit is startup and 0-1/4 throttle, needle 1/4-3/4 and main 3/4 - full. Of course there are overlaps etc, these are general numbers. Tune them one at a time or you'll drive yourself crazy randomly switching jets. http://iwan-ae.info/yz250-jetting-chart/yz250-jetting-chart-overview-101-all-offroad-com-jet/
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A lot of the ebay jets are junk. Wrong sizes etc. If it runs good with the old jets leave those in, what am I missing? In general the best write up I've found for tuning carbs is on the Duncan Racing website. If you follow the instructions you'll be dialed in and understand your bike better for future changes. https://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf
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That stem is on the inner hub. Worst case scenario you're out $40 for a new oem one. Left hand bit will take that right out, I've done it on a few that were sitting for years.
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Hope you got the set with the left hand drill bits. Hands down the best for extracting screws.
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Tony, this explains why everything in your motor comes loose...
