97Screamer

I'll sell you one that will come with a spare lol. They are stock on lots of ~85cc dirt bikes, check out eBay.

Nice. Did you know this thread was here before you bought it or just stumbled across it? I wonder who converted it to a-arm,

Good to know, thanks! I'll talk to Brian, the ass end on my bike is way too heavy.

WTF. I had no idea the play axles were that much lighter than stock ( and I assume the LSR I use now). Is that true, I might need an upgrade?

You are correct it mounts to the grab bar. If you google banshee grab bar it mounts to the two tabs inside the hoop. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Gusto's question is the most relevant. Porting, timing and domes will give you the most power for the money. Better shocks will make you faster in technical riding than any engine mod.

Sounds toasted. Pull the head and show us pictures of the carnage.

Call Roger at Wicked ATV. He knows more about Athena setups than just about anyone else and will get you straightened out.

Correct. I would never run a motor without a leak down test. Most of the time, if properly cleaned and inspected, they pass but once in a while you have a bad seal or what not that will cost you a motor far too soon if not corrected.

With a stock head at sea level your compression should be 120psi. What head/domes are you using and what is your elevation? Most of the flex hose compression testers have shorter threads than your plug and in my experience read 5-7psi low. You'll need to get an adapter that threads in as far as the plug for an accurate reading but I usually don't bother to even get mine out of the drawer. No, an air leak will not impact on your compression unless its huge.

I don't know why a radiator hose replacement would cause it to overheat, more likely an air leak.

Yes your motor is likely locked up. You can pull the clutch cover to look for anything out of place to be sure but it sounds like the symptoms of needing a rebuild.

You are correct that an 87 will use different hardware than what I posted. I'm not familiar with the particular hardware the 87s use. Worst case scenario you can upgrade to the newer swingarm/carrier design and hardware but I'm sure you'll be able to find bolts that will work.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2002/banshee-yfz350p/rear-wheel What year is your bike? If its an a-arm those should be the part numbers. If its a j-arm I believe they use a different attachment. I have a complete swingarm/carrier that has a set on there and might have another spare set if you don't find what you need.

Este articulo ya no esta disponible = This item is no longer available.

Assembling the engine won't be an issue if you're comfortable doing an oem engine. There is enough wiggle room to do them one at a time even though its a monoblock. Remember the crank is 180deg out of phase, i.e. one piston is down while the other is up, use this to your advantage. I've never run Oko carbs but I wouldn't skimp on the carbs and risk an expensive engine. 33mm PWK aren't much more money and are a very proven setup with that motor. FMF Fatty pipes might be ok but would still be choking that engine, the rest of FMF pipes aren't worth testing IMO. Snipers will be the best for that motor. Pro-circuit, SLP and CPI are all pipes I would be looking at if I didn't want to spend the money on Snipers.

A Hotrods or Driveline 4mil crank, Serval cylinders, Wiesco pistons, Chariot billet clutch basket, Driveline hd clutch and promod trans will be a solid setup. Porting the serval will make a bigger difference but you can always add that later. The 421 Serval will already be a huge improvement over your current setup. Big bore engines (421 serval included) require a different dome than the small bore you have which is why the discrepancy between 21 and 23-24. If it were mine I would ditch the stock carbs and boost bottle as well. 28-35mm PWK on the carbs depending on the type of riding.

Troll post...

That's your problem, these bikes run best with *F, not *C. In all seriousness though a 27.5 pilot isn't a bad idea but if it idles good and only have a problem on the throttle I doubt its the pilot. Could be a clogged main circuit, bad reed, or low compression. I'd start with the easiest to check and move down the list but my money is on the reed.

Give him some credit, wang crank is also included.

That is a matter of personal preference and I haven't done business with all of them so its hard to say. All of them have be vetted and are good people to deal with. If I wanted a 521 cub or serval Redline would be at the top of my list with FAST, Powerline and Wicked close behind. Again there are several other sponsor that I'm sure are equally good to work with, I just haven't personally.

Your best bet is to contact a site sponsor and get everything you need. You will get the best advice, setup and price calling and talking to one builder rather than trying to piece it together. There is no good aftermarket stator. Buy a couple so when it fails you have an extra.

Seems like a good deal, doubtful you would have got them much cheaper than that.

I also didn't know this was an option with Wiesco. I've been running coated wossner pistons for years though and have been happy. For wossner, the coating has a moly additive and provides decreased friction and tolerances. I'd imagine wiesco is similar and not just hard anodized. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

I've installed three of the cheap eBay radiators and all lined up perfect with no problems. If that's as close as yours gets I would send it back. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk