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97Screamer

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Everything posted by 97Screamer

  1. Meaning the new stage 4 and 5? I haven't ridden on either of those, only the new stage 3 and old stage 3,4,... It was my understanding the new 5's are the same as the old 4's except slightly lighter due to the aluminum bodies.
  2. You cannot buy legacy series stage 4 new anymore. The best legacy shock is the stage 3 with rebound option. If you want high/low and rebound the new stage 5 is your only option.
  3. The aftermarket stators currently on the market are not reliable. Keep looking for a good used OEM one, they can be found for ~$150.
  4. It is my experience that Elka shocks have much more potential than they demonstrate out of the box. Having them revalved by a good builder will make them better and run you about $200. I would ride them as is for a while, til you get the feel for them, then send them in so you see the difference. You can of course wait til your first rebuild to have them valved or never do it at all, it was just a recommendation. I recommend you get your shocks rebuilt at least every 50 hours but lots of people wait til they leak to get it done. Remember they are full of oil that wears out just like in your transmission, the more you service them the longer the internals will last and the better they perform. I should also mention there are better shocks available but for new at your price point I think the ones you're looking at are the best value.
  5. If its not I have a mint one I'd sell. I'll wait for BlackandYellow to respond though, hes a good seller and I'm not trying to step on his toes.
  6. They are a good value and a great upgrade from stock. If its in your budget spring for the rebound adjustment on the fronts. Elka are known for sending stiff setups so error on the side of a less stiff setup when giving the spec. Then after you ride them for a while send them to someone to get rebuilt and revalved and you'll really have a nice set of shocks for a reasonable price.
  7. Sorry, I misunderstood. I'd be afraid of pulling it back off with green loctite on the taper.
  8. You're like a month late to the pricing police party Nick. Bold font almost made up for it though!
  9. Blue loctite won't hurt if you have reason to question the quality of the threads. I've never used loctite on a flywheel, I'm a torque to spec'er. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  10. 97Screamer

    Discs

    I got some you can have if you want, just pay shipping. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  11. People that don't know how to use a torque wrench or tighten in a cross pattern don't like them because they leak and strip threads... Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  12. Please message me your email address if you're a serious buyer and you'd like more pictures. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  13. $1000 firm. Extended standard travel Roll Design arms with like new Elka Stage 3 shocks. Setup for approximately 220lb rider with these arms. No cracks, dents, bends or repairs in the arms. The two upper balljoints in the arms are loose but will come with good ones as shown. I will install them, I haven't yet because if they don't sell I will be powder coating them. Lower ball joints and bearings in great shape. Comes with stainless tie rods but ends are loose and while usable will need to be addressed at some point.
  14. Air leak. Buy or build a leak down tester and check the engine. Compression testers have check valves in them, tells you nothing about if the cylinder/intake is air tight. An air leak could lean the cylinder out enough to do what you describe. Masking it with jetting it richer will make it worse. Swap (or replace) plugs, blow through pipes and silencers and do a leak down test.
  15. Leak test? Swap plugs? If you've swapped sides with the carbs, plug wires and reeds none of those are your problem. That also eliminates stator, cdi, coil, wire harness. Problem has to be a leak, a blockage in the pipe/silencer or something fubar in the cylinder itself.
  16. A long rod crank requires pistons that have the pins moved also to account for the longer rod. In wiesco long rod pistons are 795 series, not sure about Vertex because no one besides vertex would recommend running them 😁. Spacer plates are, as you said, to avoid having to cut the domes. They also set the lower port to the correct location but make the upper port timings worse. Not to mention the possibility of air leaks. If you want to get proper performance from the engine send the cylinders to get ported for the 4mil crank, buy cut domes, and throw the spacer plate in the garbage.
  17. http://www.hsdracing.com/Yamaha-Banshee-IMSROLL-Pro-Series-Foot-Pegs-Prodview.html
  18. Thanks, maybe someone else will think so and buy it. I don't ride it, it's just a spare. Below is my main quad. I wasn't planning on selling but have been wanting to do a custom frame build. Maybe this thread gave me the motivation I need to sell it and build one. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  19. I can't do it. They wouldn't come with the bike. It would come with AC propegs like the OP has.
  20. If the op isn't selling I've got one I'll sell for $4200, come get it guys. Similar build specs, little more chrome. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  21. If you are getting 12V at the plug your problem is between the plug and the bulb (i.e. the wiring in the housing, socket or the bulb itself), has nothing to do with any other component. I would start by connecting the bulb to a 9V battery and confirm its working. 9v should be enough to light it up although it will be dim. If you happen to have a 12V battery laying around that's even better.
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