97Screamer

Everything you need to know is here:

Red to yellow and black to black, meter in AC mode. Should see about 10-50 depending on RPM if I remember correctly. It that checks out you can check voltage out of regulator and make sure its ~12V (I measure at the light sockets but you can check back by the regulator if you want).

What makes those OG plastics different from the Fullbores currently being sold new for less?

Gusto nailed it. Suspension will make you faster and more comfortable. Terry throttle and 28mm PWK carbs (I have both used in great shape if you're interested) and pro circuit pipes. T6 will limit your power if you do any additional work in the future like porting or the Driveline kit. As you mentioned, your bike is not an anniversary edition. Those are all yellow with a carbon fiber printed radiator cover and only made in 2006. It appears the previous owner put the graphics on a different set of plastics.

Chariot. Best fit and finish, fewest orings, best value. Avoid anything Vito's imo. Used to be quality stuff til Rattle Can Ray bought the name, now everything is made as cheaply as possible and usually junk. Stock dome size is ~23cc, 21 or 22 is a good pump gas dome depending on your local octane.

I have a hydraulic clutch and HD Driveline springs and its easier to pull than my stock springs and ez-pull lever. On a ported stock cylinder you should be fine with stock springs. At the very most do every other HD spring as Gusto said.

49"... I'm all for shedding 10lbs of unsprung weight but I'm not willing to change my front end and buy new wheels to do it. I'll definitely keep the billet axle in mind if I ever change my front end or build another one. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Boo. I guess I'll be gluing my piggy bank back together tonight. I didn't realize the limitation in the billet axles.

Are they still limited to 42" width with normal offset wheels? Is your front way wider than the rear Tyler?

Suspension will make you faster than a new motor. If you want to do a new motor as well a serval is a great choice. Talk to a couple site sponsors and get opinions on what they recommend for a setup for you and then make a decision which to buy from.

Yes run it down. Some people aim it at the bottom of the pipe so they know if its too hot. You shouldn't have to ever add coolant, the first time it gets to temp it will find equilibrium. If you are consistently loosing coolant after that you have a problem. Coolant level in my experience is just over the fins when cold.

Floats are my favorite. I don't care about weight, my bikes are all pigs. My ranking out of the shocks I've owned would be Floats, Axis, Elka, Works. I've also heard great things about PEP and Stadium but never owned either. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

It would be equivalent to taking the spring off a normal shock and running it. You wouldn't have anything to support the weight of you or the bike, just ridding around on the bump stops. I've owned three sets of floats and numerous coil shocks and do the service on all them myself.

No. Adjusting the air pressure is equivalent to changing the stiffness of the spring. Every float has one length just like a normal shock. If you run it with too little air it is still that length, just tons of sag and no real damping.

I'm not trying to bash on your arm but if you haven't mounted it and can return it I would consider it. They have a history of breaking on anything that gets ridden more than a drag bike.

With the stock carrier adjustment, it is easy to misalign the axle which lead to your bike crabwalking and/or broken chains. Even when properly aligned, the adjusters can walk around somewhat, especially with higher power motors. If you've ever adjusted a chain with a roundhouse you'll never touch a stock one again.

Swingarm shop arms are junk if you're actually going to dune it. Also, upgrade to a roundhouse carrier style while you're at it.

Tyler is right, there is no chart and every engine is different. Take your best guess on the safe side and read your plugs like the rest of us.

Maybe just the pic but it looks like the crank is separating. Better get out the feeler gauges. I don't know about the rod, you could convince me either way.

Fair enough.

Lol, I'd like to see that equation.

280 on a bone stock bike? I'd be very surprised if thats the case. I don't even change my jets going from ~75 during the day to ~40 at night, 20F is not that cold. I'm not confused even though my post may have been confusing. The 215 was from a mathematical standpoint, I recommended the 210 because of elevation and 220 to be safe. If he needs a 280 the bike is either not stock or has an air leak imo.

200 is stock. 280 sounds very rich to me unless you have exhaust and/or have removed your airbox. I'm assuming this is not the case since you said your bike was stock. A rule of thumb is one size on the main for every 30F on a stock bike. That would put you at 215-220. With the elevation that's where I came up with 210. If you wanted to be safe 220 would be a good starting point.

If your bike is truly all stock I'm going to say stock jetting 200/25. The temp and elevation should just about cancel each other out, maybe a touch lean. You could go 210 on the main if the plugs look lean and adjust the air screw.

I've never heard of such a thing. Does it look factory stamped or like someone added it? Definitely a 1998 should have a normal 17 character VIN. I have a 95 and two 97 and had a 2001, all had normal VINs.