I would trade you for a pair of stock carbs but in reality your setup is worth more. You'd be better off selling it and buying a pair of stock carbs or better yet a pair of Keihin PWK. Id go with 35mm on gas or 39 on alcohol. Either of those you can find used for under $300 if you look around. Your setup is worth $150-180 in my opinion, more with the airbox.
Vforce are your best best. You can pickup new Vforce4 for about $200 or a used set of the older ones for about half that if you shop around. The pedals are about $100 for a complete set so if you go used make sure the pedals are in good shape.
If you want the best performance port match the stuffers to your intake. When you get around to it I'd look at a new carburetor and pipe setup, they are definitely restricting that motor.
I've got a set of stock hubs off my bike I'd sell for $25 shipped if you're interested. They are spray painted red but have good bearings, I pulled them off for billet hubs.
You'll need to measure the port timing to be sure. You can lookup and print out a degree wheel and how to use it or buy one for a few dollars. You can also measure the height of the ports from the top of cylinder if you are reasonably certain they have never been decked. If the person said he ported it for a 4mil and to use a spacer plate I wouldn't have him do any more work on your bike.
Make sure to never ask any more build advice from whoever told you a spacer plate is best.
To properly build a stoker motor with stock cylinders you'll need to have the port timing corrected for the longer stroke in addition to having the domes cut. Just throwing a stroker crank in without porting will run like crap, might as well keep it stock. With the price of the driveline 4mil top ends have a stock set ported really isn't worth it anymore imo.
The common way its done is with a spacer in the body. Waste of money. The yfz shocks already don't have enough shaft travel, putting a spacer inside is hard on the internals and also further reduces shaft travel and in turn wheel travel. Often time the people that do this mod also don't respring the shock so not even that is setup correctly.
The fact is yfzr shocks are great shocks but to have them PROPERLY setup for a banshee you would be in them for far more than much better aftermarket shocks.
Working on a couple builds myself and no spare electronics. They are all over eBay for $30-40, that's like the price of lug nuts on that pretty axle. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
If you are bottoming out your Works shocks they are not properly setup. Bottoming out has nothing to do with shaft travel. The Alba arms take a 17.5" shock. Standard travel +2 arms a 14.75" shock. Neither will work properly with x shocks. Sell the x shocks and use the money to get your Works setup for you.
Fireball will make you any size you'd like. I usually buy longer oem ones off whatever and cut them to length. I run lsr yfzr tubes which are just over 14" so tubes for +1 yfzr should be close. You'll need 12mm ends to run yfzr tubes but with that wide if an arm you should have 12mm setup anyways. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
I'm sorry, they are sold. I have several sets of nicer freshly serviced Works I'll be listing this week, message me if you're interested and I'll see if I have anything setup for your application. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
Can't help on metallic ones but the original carbon ones are readily available.
https://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/v-force-2-replacement-reeds-banshee.html?search=vforce
Anything Vitos made in the last decade is cheap junk. Stay away from everything Vitos and your bike will thank you. VForce4 are the best general purpose reed you can get, worth the extra money if you're going to upgrade.
The box is part of the TORS (throttle override system). Leave it unplugged. The technical info section of the page has the manual and any and all diagrams you could want, I recommend you spend some time getting familiar over there: https://www.bansheehq.com/technical-information/