itsaripper

Two more .090 and .100. Wisco makes pistons for those bores.

It would have been good to have taken a die-grinder and clean up the break. That way the harmonic virbration would not be able to form any cracks. Sometimes nothing ever becomes of the break, but if it where mine it would break after about two hours when I was 50miles from home.

_No_ you can not use stock reeds. You have to use a solid one piece peddle, like the ones from TDR or I think Boyesen pro series. If you are going to do this take a lot of care to not knik the rubber. Just take the side edge out till it is strait. I noticed better throttle responce, more mid and top. Now to everyone who is going to say just buy V-forcce. I think for a little time and $35 or so you have a set of reed cages that $220 v-force are going to have a hard time beating. I have seen the DYNO run on Planet sand Yes the V-force beat the ported stockers. But that was on a heavy drag ported banshee. On other dyno, runs that were on less ported cylinders, they beat the v-force and sometimes the v-force beat the ported stockers. Usually it was not two horsepower either way. So if you prefer V-force buy them, it is a free country. Good luck

Here is a picture of the front Yes I took a hacksaw blade and cut just above the middle bar on top and bottem. Then used a flat file and brought it down even. For the main body I used a new rat tail file and the flat file. Later sets I have gone to useing the dremel tool, way faster. The reeds I used were from TDR, called hyper-tension .018 , I think they were $33. Call 1800-321-6354 or to www.Bansheesuperstore.com I also used some 3/8 spacers in front of the reed cage to put the cages back a little and bent the returns out a little more.

Here are picture of reed cages that have been ported.

03limitedban You are right about the long rod. I stand corrected. But on a stroker it works just like I said. Let me give you a example. Take a two inch circle and a fifteen inch circle. They both have 360 degrees. If you move something from 10o'clock to 2o'clock on the two inch circle, it goes pretty fast. Now do the same on a fifteen inch circle and it take a lot longer. The piston hangs around the top longer and the bottom longer. My understanding of the 795 series pistons is they are used on a long rod only. The long rod being the RZ 400 rod used in the banshee 350. The stroker has to be delt with by some other means. Useing a plate or moving up the ports, and cutting the head for the piston to come up the extra. A longrod stroker can use the 795 piston but it is only taking care of the long rod. The stroker takes something else to compensate for its added length. Now if I am wrong here again at least everone can benifit from my stupidity of putting it out here for ya to read.

You have four choises 1 Stock crank : stock type pistons, OME or Wiseco 2 Stock crank, long rod : Use wiseco 795 series pistons. The pin is moved up to offset the extra length of the rod 3 Stroker crank , stock rod: Use stock type pistons again here 4 Stroker crank. long rod: Use Wiseco 795 series pistons. This is where you use the spacer to take up the extra space the stroker crank gives you. You can also have the head cut to take up this space, and have port work done to raise them to keep the timeing right. The long rod will give you more torque, which is really what moves you, and that is good. What is happening is the piston stays at TDC longer to let the gas burn better. At BDC it let more fuel charge in cause it stayes longer befor it moves up to close the ports. It has a better angle on the crank. If I have got something wrong here I'm sure it will be pointed out momentarly

The rule of thumb is use as small a carb as you can get away with. You wiil get a wider spread of power cause it will work down to a lower rpm. That will make it easyer to tune Haveing said that, the more you port the more air you will move through the cylinder. Because of that you will kiss lower end goodby and hello mid and top end. This is where the larger carbs will work better. My 2cents here Go with PWK28 or PWK28s bored to 30 34mm and 35s are going to be way to big.

Here is BenB jetting FAC. It will answer all your questions. www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Print it out and refer back to of often. I think it was copyrighted so do not try to sell the info

What you did getting the CC of the head wiil give you a ballpark idea of where you will be. If the head has Orings to seal it will be closer to the 19.5cc. If not and you use a head gasket then you have about .010 compressed space there. Your piston is not going to come all the way to the top of the cylinder, called deck hight. But you can ajust with bottem gasket,or machining some off. Brand new piston and ring will give you the max that you are going to get with that setup. The best way to know is bolt it on and take a compresson check. McDizzie has a bunch of formulas that you could use to see what you have.

The only way you can come close to knowing what the head was milled, is No 1 to pull the head. No 2 to put a piece of sodder in the spark plug hole and crank the motor over slow. That will squish the sodder and then you could conpare it with a known stock cylinder. But really all you need to know is what your compression is. So go buy a compression gauge and get the compression. Add race gas as needed.

Most of the time it is to much premix. Try going to a 40to1 mix on the oil you use now. Or try going to a good synthetic like Amsoil dominator and mix it at 50to1. Your jetting could also be rich. What does the plugs look like? Black and wet or light brown and dry.

Well lets see, the bumper, lazerlights, flame grill, and the 450 shocks, should be good for atleast 10 HP each. Then the pipes, 400 kit,and porting should be good for 5 hp each. So your about 55 hp. Do you believe that? I am the bench racing champion. Anything else you need to know? Really the only way your hp will be know, is to take your bike to a dyno and pay them to see how much hp it makes.

I looked at my spair engine and it lookes like the C holder on the right with the philips screws holding it on, is on the out side of the shifting drum. Take them out and slide the drum out a little bit and there is a slot it rides in. Maybe I am wrong but that is all I can see from the picture.

Go ahead and po po porting reed cages. All I know is what I have, by the seat-of-the-pants dyno, exsperianced. It didn't cost me $220 dollars, I improved off idle responce, mid and top end were improved too. That was with stock carbs. When I put on a set of tapper bored stock carbs. (Bored to 27.5) Mid to top end was like when I put on a the after market pipes. Yes this could all be had with a set of V-force reeds. But I like to do thing myself and don't nessasary like to just go with crowd.

Here are some bigger pictures of porting the reed cages. The one with the dark center is a stock reed cage, the other one is the way I ported the ones currently on my Banshee. The ported reeds have to use the TDR hyper tension reeds.

Hope this picture comes in, sorry it's so small.

HEY!! Man you are going to have to get past they worked on your friends banshee. More important they don't run right on yours. So like Meat said you are going to have to get to work and clean them again. It happens to everyone. I have cleaned my carbs out and put them back on and they leaked all over . Take back off and go through again and didn't find anything. Put them on and they didn't leak

Try useing three of the old springs and three of the new ones, just alternate one new and then one old. That should lighten up the pull some and still give the clutch good pressure.

First off why do you want to go back to stock? You put the choke on the left side, right? The little black hose is on between the carbs? The slides are in the right sides? That would mean the slanted part is at the back. One of the guys I ride with had a main jet fall out and it had no power and smoked a lot too If you are going back to stock, depending on your elevation, you should be at 220 on your jetting. Also synce the carbs. Take your filter off and watch the slides. Do they both come up at the same time? If not turn both tors ajustment back to the left. Then open them up the same amount till the engine ideals. Again make sure the slides are leaving the bottom at the same time. Everyone is trying to hop up their banshee and you want to go back to stock?

First take a hair dryer and set it about 10 inches away from it and let it dry that thing out good. Take some compressed air and blow the stator off. I am assumeing you did pull the flywheel. If you haven't do it first. USE A FLYWHEEL PULLER. Lightly sand the magnets inside the flywheel. Look it over good for loose wires and or bear wires. Clean the ground off that is on one of the three bolts holding on the stater. Put flywheel back on and try it. If still no spark, Yep you have to get a new stator.

Your going to need new two bearings and two new seals. The yamaha part number for seals Right side: 93102-43341 Left side : 93106-42026 These seals are only one mm apart on the inside width so I have used two of eather one I couldn't find the yamaha part number, but I think they were in the $20 dollar range. I went to a bearing house and got some and the price was about the same. The brand was RBI, number was 6007-2RS. The brand yamaha had was NSK no. 6007VVC3 If you have your axel off go ahead and take the bolt out where the swingarm hooks to the frame. Grease the bearings and neverseeze the bolt so it won't ever get stuck inside the pipe that it goes through. Some people take the inside seal out of the bearings and put a grease zert in the carrier and fill it with grease. Then give it a couple of pumps every ride or two.

Check the plug caps. Make sure they are not jumping inside. My caps were old and the spark was leaking out at low rpms, and so one cylender would miss. Then it would kick in and seam ok. Backfireing on a twostroke is lean on the jetting, unless there is some spark issue. Make sure your reeds are seating good on the cages too

Did the oring break into half or did you slice a piece off the side of it? If the oring broke into half there is something wrong with the oring material. But if you installed it in without greasing it, you could have sliced a piece off. Then when everything gets hot and exspanded you get a leak.

Cheap mods Port your reed cages and use single peddle reeds. Mill your stock head .030 Mod your stator plate to advance your timing 4 degree Have your stock carbs bored out to 27mm Clean up the intake track with your diegrider or do a Spots port by Race Logic. About $85 for the kit Spendy mods Buy V-Force 3s, about $220 Buy a any of the cool head type heads, with some 20cc domes Buy a " Ricky Stator" stator plate, $35 not to high really. Buy some Keihin PWK 28s Ebay $180 to $250. Get a port job by a reputable porter. It really come down to how much you want to spend