itsaripper

Your carbs are running out of fuel. Check for a bend in the gas line that is restricking the flow. Also take the gas petcock out of the gas tank and clean it with starting fluid or brake clean, and blow it out with compressed air.

Try Tony Doukas Racing. 1-800-321-6354 Or WWW.Bansheesuperstore.com They sell Hyper-tension reeds, tell them what you have and need. They should be able to make it.

Well of all the things you need to do to hop up a banshee motor, porting the cases will prolly be the last thing done. It will make you a couple of hp, in conjunction with the other porting done. If you have the cases apart putting in a crank, yea, do it. Sorry I don't have any pictures.

When you get out to .080, which is the eighth bore size.

Check the reeds, one may have broken clear off

Buy a Clymer's manual, you will need it if you are going to do any work yourself on the banshee. I know it is your first post here, Welcome to this forum. Now there is a little thing up at the top called a SEARCH, its a wonderful little tool that get you lots of information. Just ask the right question. Its been covered like 10,000 times. Good luck

I also say stay with the stock carb, or close to it. Your throttle response will stay because the valosity going through the carbs is still good. The bigger you go the more the valosity goes down. Having said that I bought a set of stock 26mm carbs, taper-bored to 27.5 on my banshee and it felt like when I had put on the aftermarket pipes. It came on stronger and was better all the way to high reves.

Yes, that is the carb I was talking about. Does anyone have them and can give a testamony of how they run. Are they a good copy or OK?

Are these carbs you are talking about the OKO, Keihn lookalikes? I have been wondering if they were anygood. The price is sure right if the carb is not junk.

Boy what was I thinking. After all that I wrote I forgot to tell ya about the 90 degree grinder for the transfers. Go to www.ccspecialtytool.com and look at their tools. Real top notch stuff. Just be ready to spend some bucks. However when I look at their motor I still think Fordom makes it for them. If that is true then the CC Specialty stuff should or could fit the fordom.

Ebay Put in Fordom. There is useally some good prices on there, and some decent knockoffs that will do a good job. You need a high torque motor that turns up to 20,000 rpm's. You prolly won't use it at that rpm much but when sanding it nice. Then put carbid bits in and look there. Lots of choices. You will need several different shapes. Also a few 6inch long to get into the transfers. I have both double cut and single cut. Double cut seam to take it out faster, clogs up more, single cut leaves the surface rougher(could be the shape I am using). A little penatrant or WD4o will keep the clogging down. Also when you are cutting aluminum dont bear down hard and use high speed. (That is where the high torque motor come in) The grinding makes lots of heat and you can acually liqufy the metal and it make a hard spot that become harder to take off. In the reading department also read A Graham Bell book Two-Stroke Performance Tuning ISBN 1859606199 John Robinson book Motorcycle Tuning Two-Stroke ISBN 075061806X Take it slow you will be learning a lot in a short time You will make power opening up the intake. You will make more and better power opening up, and getting the angle of the incoming gasses right, on the transfers. You will alway make more power moving the exhaust port up. But it moves the power-band up. So you can screw up a cylinder real fast. Also another thing to think about is you need to port to your pipe. The rpm range the pipes are made for. Now if I have got something wrong in anything here I am sure someone will jump right in and correct it. Good Luck

I have been using Amsoil for three years. The old name was Series 2000, it was changed to Dominator. I run it at 50:1, it burns clean and doesn't leave a lot of deposets on the piston. The 100:1 is for two stroke lawn mowers, weedeaters, chainsaws, etc, small twostrokes. I have never used the gear oil. Because, my opinion here, synthetics are suposed to be slicker and that would make the wet clutch slip. I run strait old F type ATF, its cheap and makes the clutches grip. Been running it about the same time as the Amsoil. Never burnt up a crank or blew up a trans so that is just my two cents here.

If you are just putting in a new set of rings, that type of hone would work better than the one with all the little balls. But if you are thinking of honing the bore from stock to the first over (64.25mm). NO Take them to a machine shop to get them bored.

I agree with Rippen, Take it slow and reserch out the porting. The rule of thumb is that you port to the pipe. Kind of like with stock to mild porting the Fatteys or Toomys work. For drag porting you better get Grand River Racing, CPI, Rocket's etc. Don't get me wrong I am all for doing the porting yourself. But you can totally screw up the thing going to far in one place or a nother. So Google Sportsport and read what they say and look at their stuff. Is not a bad start for a beginer. Well good luck

Don't you mean 93 octane? If you can get 98 you can run 19cc dome no prob. If if is just 93 octane you should be ok with 21 domes. But 20cc are better and 19 is even better. Just run some Trick (114 octane) with the 93. Like one gallon to four 93 and you will be OK.

There are a couple of things that I would add. Befor you take anything apart wash the motor and the frame, then blow everything off with a air gun. Dirt and especialy sand gets into the little places around the base of the cylinders. When you get ready to put the rings in take one and put it into the cylinder. Push it down with the piston. Take a feeler gauge and make sure what the end gap is. New rings should be .012 to .018. I set mine at .014 Good luck

How much to ship the top case to zip 97530 Thanks

The top case. Did the crack run into the output shaft or up to the clutch release leaver?

This is what I remember about the airscrew. In is richer, out is leaner, just backwards from a car carberator. In to within 1/2 turn of botteming out is as rich as it will get, 2 turns out is as lean as it will get. After that you need to go up on the pilot jet. The airscrew is mostly to fine tune the idle when the air gets colder or warmer, more humidity or less. A nother thing, go to members at the top of the page. Find BenB in his signature he has a Banshee jetting FAX. Print that thing out and refer back to it often. It is copywrited material but I think its ok to copy for personal use. Just don't try to sell it. I think every new member should have to sign a paper, that they have read it. It would elemanat a lot of jetting questions. Oh I am not saying your question was dumb or anything. I had lots of these type of questions too till I read that Jetting FAX. THANKS BenB

Even though you are doing a rebuild, I would still check both sparkplug wires. Where the plug boot screws into the wire, mine ate out till the spark had to jump about a inch. It sounded just like what yours is doing. Ideled good then started missing as the rpms went up, then kicked in and ran hard right up to max. That is just something to check and eleminate.

Contact Ricky Stator they make adaptors that let you use newer year stators on older Banshee's. I don't know their number but google it.

When I was looking into having my stock Banshee head cut for domes. Andy at Grand River Racing mentioned he could cut RZ heads for dome also. I don't know if he still does of not. It may be a option though. Try this number 1-616-642-6186 during bussines hrs, or leave a message and he will get back to you.

Whenever a Banshee starts smoking heavy out of the right cylinder. The crank seal is bad. The trans oil will get sucked into the cylinder and burns. Also could be a hole in the top of the piston. So the fuel no longer burns but just goes right through. Or even could be a leaking head gasket. Not as likely but could be. The seal is the most likely. You will have to split the case to replace. Do both sides ofcourse, and rebuild the topend at the same time.

My nephews banshee was loosing fluid out the rear breather. It had a bug nest in it and the pressure would build up and push it out, then loose oil. We blew it out and no more trouble. Check the lines, could be plugged.

Here is a web site that seems to have good prices. www.funkmotorsports.com/banshee/ There is so much trial and error that go into developing a good port job. The knowledge that goes with it, that most porters don't give out much free advice. There is a guy that makes a thing called the sports port that you put over the port and mark the area to be ported. They are sold on Ebay too. It is a good way to get your feet wet. There is a lot to be gained by just cleaning up the intake track and getting a good set of pipes and reeds. If your fingers are itching to port first read a couple of books 1 Motorcycle Tuning by John Robinson ISBN 075061806x 2 Two Stroke Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell ISBN 1859606199 McDizzy is a nother web site that has a lot of people that build motors that talk about what they do. You can visit there for a while but it cost to join the forum. Good Luck