itsaripper

After twenty years of opening and shuting my gate I bought a Mightymule gate opener. Look at it at www.mightymule.com. I think it was $425 for the base unit and then I had to get the solar panel to use. No 110 power at gate. Use a remote that can be set to your code. If your electrical you could prolly reproduce it cheeper. Originally I was going to use a garage door opener. Setting up the gate to swing up and its weight would help close it. Or on a slide or wheels that pulled strait in and out. Hope this helps ya some! Well after the kids are gone, getting in and out to open that gate gets real old.

When you are going a long in any gear pull in the clutch, keeping the throttle pegged. Your reves will go way up. Is that what you were after? Seriously a stock banshee powerband will only go so high. To get more revs you have to get pipes that are rev pipes and port work. Also excessive compression will restrict revs.

Sheerdr Look at the big picture. About 98% of the news media are liberals. In other words Democrats inviromentalists, who want to get rid of those ring ding ding two strokes. If using Ozzy and his accident to sway peoples minds against four-wheelers, then they will say about anything to make the accident look really bad and the four-wheeler out to be a 150 mile per hour, 600 lb monster. The news media won't go to Glamis or anywhere else for that matter, and show the 299900 people having a good clean family fun time together. No!!! They focus on the 100 Boobs who are drunk and running around. Or some greaving family who had a member ran over or broke up in a freek accident. About the only thing I believe on TV any more is football scores and sometimes the weather.

Have any of you shop owners used these new Viper sleeves sold by Lake Motorsports in Waterford MI ? Would this be better with the bigger exhaust and the bridge. I found them on Ebay under Banshee viper sleeve It sounds like they go clear up to big bore too. What do you think? Better than stock ported? Or just a come on

Demsy, You should not take the reed stops off. They help high speed rebound on the reeds. But take and cut off the end with a hack saw just above the big hole. Then bend them out till they just scrape the top and bottem going in. Porting the reed cages is one of the simplest mods and cheep. By the way there is a nother set of reed cages out there that look real good. They are called G3 by Dir1. Suposed to move more air the anyone else. The long narrow peddles is a good idea. I havn't bought any but still look good.

When do you ever take it easy on a banshee? Are you just waiting to get a new crank? Just riding it won't knock a crank out of phase. But winding it up to 10,000 and dumping the clutch (IE drag racing) will.

The stock boots will only take a 28mm carb. If you want to go bigger UPP makes some aftermarket boot that go over 30mm to 34mm. Also the stock intake will take the 28mm but will have to be changed if you go bigger.

You lucky Duck. Living right there by the dunes. I bet on a summer evening you can set on your front porch and smell the 927 in the air, from the drags at Boxcar. There are alot of Oregon riders on here too. Maybe some of them will find this and drop off and say Hi. When we get ready to head over there again I will PM you so we can see if we can get together. Say you don't have alot of room in your front yard for lets say two four-wheel drive with trailers. No not really. We stay at the KOA, nice place and easy to get right on the dunes. A lot of the peeps on Planet Sand are into drag racing, and that is kind of what that fourm is geared to.

Jethro That was Backcountry on a race ported banshee. I guess if you have enough money to trick out a motor then the $230 for v-force reeds isn't going to matter. Porting my reed cages was free, just took time. The TDR reeds were $32. I am not saying the vforce are bad, I just never could justify the cost.

Yes!! I ride mostly at Hauser north on Coos Bay. That way we can go north to Spinreel or south to Boxcar. The weather has been real wet lately so haven"t gone for a month. Do you ever go to Planet Sand ? There are a lot of Oregon riders on there.

My first two wheelers were homemade mini-bikes, with briggs and straton engines. The first real motorcycle was a Ducati 250. I was a mid sixties road bike someone had stripped down and put knobbes on. Boy that thing was hard to get started, used to push that thing up our hill and coast down to start. Usually wore out befor I got it started. Some where in there I had a wizzer. That was a peddle bike with a motor. Mostly putt putt. Then a 250 Suzuki savage. A Carabella 125, a Bulltaco 250, then a Suzuki TM 250. Then I sold everything in 1976 and put all my money into raisen kids. In 2001 I got bit by a sand bug and bought a banshee and here I am

Something is not right with that dyno chart. All the other dyno's I have seen put the stock banshee around 39 to 40 hp. Their's starts at 52!!! If their off 12 hp at the bottem, maybe their off 12 at the top too.

The nipples are attatched to the teats, they are in front. I thought you kids got this in health class.

Well.............. After you posted the link. Purty big claims. They kind of look like Fattys. Them being new to the four wheeler circle they should price a little lower. For that price people will buy CPI's, they have a proven record.

Evil I don't know if anyone does it anymore but the carb can be bored up into the body. If you look at it when done it would look egg shaped. That way you get more bore but keep the original slide.

Sorry I can't see any pipes. Just those bouncing boobs.

Aussie quad racer I am readen this doing a search on RDs. Did you ever get those TZ jugs on the 350? Are they air cooled? So you are making a 500 banshee? Wow that should get ya some wheel spin.

Wahoo Banchetta congratulations!!!! NYUK your boy will be a banshee rider, just look at that grip he has on that finger. This all reminds me of a frase from a Crosby Stills Nash and Young song. "Teach your children well" They will live out your dreams and visions. Dan

To use the added carb you should put on a aftermarket head with like 20cc domes. Port your reed cages and get some TDR reeds, or get v-force II reed cages. Advance your timing about four degrees and run some higher octane gas. Get some K&N pod air cleaners or toomy upright one into two air cleaner. Now your motor can kinda handle the added gas. That LRD web site puts the carb mod at about last as far as where to go to add hp to the banshee.

Get on ebay and buy some reed spacers. Like about half inch ones. Put them on and they will raise the carbs up to miss the clutch release arm. They will also give you some better throttle response.

With a aftermarket head,pipes, and just basic hopup stuff, you prolly won't need to weld crank. If you take it out and drag race it, even stock, where you rev it to the limet and drop the clutch, then its a real good idea to weld it. This is just my opinion you should weld the crank when you get your motor to putting out 55 plus hp, or if you are in there doing some work, it is good insurance.

Hi Holyman, You have several things to conceder here at once. First you have improved the intake and the exhaust. Second the temp is way down. So what would I do? Well lets say the average temp on a spring,summer,fall day is 75 to 80, and now you are at 30. Thats a drop of 50, so raise the jets 3 points. Thats going one point per twenty degrees. I know its not 60 but better to go a little rich. Now the intake and exhaust. Go up atleast 2 on the improved filter and up to 8 on for the exhaust. That makes 3 +2+8 = 13 points richer. That makes it about 340s. I figured you had 220s for stock. But try this first (number 32 on Benbs jetting fax) the old pop the choke on the first notch trick. Warm up the motor and pull out the choke to first click and see if it runs better. If it does you need to go richer. This information was take from Bens jetting fax. So if any of it helps thank him!!

Hey here's ya some reading. Go to www.aircooled-rd.com In the site go to technical then to tips and at bottem the Dale Alexander archives. I know this is a air cooled RD but the princples are the same.

Like the bottle says 50:1. I have used av gas, 50:50 mix race gas and super, and super alone. It burns clean and protects great. Its the quality of the oil that gives the protection.

You can do this porting your self. Get a newer flat file and small rat tail file. You need to decide which reeds you are going to use. Stock type or the single type like TDR. How much you take out will depend on the reed. Go to www.roostfest.com and see where to cut. I am using the TDR .018 hyper-tenchon and cut out the vertical rib (up and down). Yes you can use a dremel but be carful not to nick the rubber where the reed lays closed. Good luck