itsaripper

It is the right side that smokes. Your pulling trans oil in through the crank seal. Also you could still be burning the old oil and carbon out of the smoking pipe.

Drain the water again. Take off the side cover. In the middle of the clutch is the clutch ajuster, a 10mm nut and what looks like a bolt with no head but instead has a slot for using a screwdriver. Take it out, use a magnut and take the steal ball out, then use the magnet again, and get the pushrod out. If it is bad the ball and the rod could be one. If really bad they will have mushroomed and won't come out. What kind of oil are you using in the trans?

After all I said I am going to back off and say prolly the stickers would be the best bet. But there is one more thing you could do. Sometimes at finer grocery stores you can get celery with a big blue rubber band, that hold it all together. Get two of those and put one on each side, on your banshee. They really improve your power band. OK

My vote would also be to buy some pipes. Now what kind of riding you going to do most. From the poll it looks like you want to make a low end pulling banshee. If you are riding fire roads or dunes, pro circuit, toomy t5s or some other top end pipe would be best. For other stuff like trails or even mx a torquer pipe like those SSTs or fattys or the T6 prolly would be better. Now don't everone jump on here and say I use fattys for drag racing or I MX and I have T5s. I know everone loves their pipes. The best bang for your buck is good and smart combinations of mods. After all that there are other things you can do to boost hp and not pay alot. Like port your reed cages. Then use some Tony Doukas reeds. Get a better air cleaner on there. Take the stock stator mount off and useing a dremal or round file, advance the timing about 4 degrees. Take the stock head to a machine shop and have them take 25 or 30 thousands off. My last one cost $25 Now if you get some money there are some other mods that would shoot you to the moon.

Advance the timeing on gas to about 3 or 4. Any more on gas won't get more hp. You should see about two hp. On my banshee it helped from off idle right on up to peak revs. It really is cheep hp, considering what all the other mods cost.

OK I wasn't going to answer this question, but it is always interesting to see the reaction. I use F type ATF. I have used it for three years and not had any problems. I change the oil about every 20 hours. Its cheap and makes the clutch grip not slip!!

Thanks for all the information. Hey moderator I didn't know there was a suspension forum. Sorry, I have not been on this site very much lately.

Can the stock rear shock be rebuilt? Who does it?

The first thing that come to mind is one of the shifting forks is broke or bent. That way you are in two gears at once. Drain the oil, and radiator, then take off the clutch side. Shift the trans and watch to make sure the shifting drum is turning. If it is turning that mean the gears are moving on the shafts so something will have gotten inbetween the gears. I have even seen something get inbetween the crank and the clutch gear and lock up everything.

Lets see if I can give you some idea of what I think is going on with your carberation. First your motor is a air pump, keep that in mind when you are jetting any bike. Then when it is running great it is a combination of all the componants working together. This answer is going to sound like I am all over the place, going in different directions. But anyway, you have had your motor ported, improved the air flow, now your pipes should work better. After the port job you can rev higher, more air flow, so put on bigger carbs. That improves mid and top end but the low end is sluggish. You have created a condition in the intake that is like you trying to suck water up a 5/8 heater hose instead of a straw. The valosity at low rpm's is low. The only way to get that back is to go back to the smaller carb or put more compresson in the motor to creat more suction. Get the head decked .030 or a cool-head type head with 20cc or 19cc domes. Watch those carbs start worken. But you will have to start running a 50/50 mix of reg and some higher octane. The 390 main seems a little rich. I hesatate to say put this size jet in, it will fix the problem. But take it back a couple of points and keep watching the plugs. Watch for any backfireing that is a sign of a lean condition you need to go richer. Hope this helps, Good luck

The spacer will give the reeds more time to open and close if you put them inbetween the reed cage and the motor. That should give you some more bottom end. Not gobs just some.

At the end of the stearing stem is a little tab that limits the stearing. When it gets a hard hit it can bend over or bend away from where its supposed to be. Mine had been pushed over and cracked the ends, when I got my banshee. I took a three foot bar and hammer and bent it back. Then welded the cracks. Don't hold the weld to long on the tab, there is a bearing in there.

Brian060 Try going to a Yamaha dealer site like www.ronnies.com. Go down to OME parts, yamaha, atv, then year, and banshee. Scroll down to shift shaft and that number 7 is the seal I think you need. Look around those exsploded views of the motor. It will get you familure with the banshee engine. Also the price is there so you can not be shocked when you go to buy stuff. There are several other Yamaha dealer sites just go use one you like. I am just used to this one

As a rule of thumb anytime you get a backfire you are too lean in the jet for that RPM range. Take the right carb off and clean the jet again. Something is plugging that main jet. Also sometimes there is a lot of crapolla on the little screan up inside the fuel tank and that will restrict the gas enough to let the right side starve and get a backfire.

The type and weight of the oil will effect the shifting. Have you modified the shift star yet? Also if you ever have to go into the transmission, put some shifting forks from the RZ into it. They have little rollers that run in the shifting cam. Really makes power shifting smooth.

Get the rule book for your area. Are you going to run stock or modified or super modified. How many modification you do will determan your class. If you run stock around here you can only have one modification to the body. Like putting something between the rear axle and the frame to make it ridged. The tires have to be a size that came on that truck from the factory. The width can't be to radical. But you don't want the wheels to hook up right away. You need to get moving with lots of wheel spin, then hook and pull like mad. Most don't use a auto, too much slip.They use four speeds and start in second. These are just what I know from around here. Your area may be totaly differant. What ever you do it will be lot of fun. There is a pull up in Amity Oregon at the end of summer. They were pulling a small sled with fourwheelers. There were several banshees pulling, but I missed that part of the pull.

Yes I run F type. Not Dextron II There is a big differance in the two. F type makes clutches grip, Dextron II has something in it to slip a little bit befor the clutches grab.

Are the bearings sealed or tapered with a cone? The sealed should be the same as stock, the tapered rollers should beable to get at any bearing house.

Don't let these people stop you, the only way to learn is to do it. There are a few things you will need. Get a degree wheel, and check out CC Specalties web site. They have the only 90 degree die grinder that is worth a toot. Also check out McDizzy for mapping a cylinder. Go wider befor you take the ports up. Good luck

DCBlack, There used to be several builders that came on here all the time and gave advice. I see them on Planet Sand and other sites. If you want to read up on all of this get two books: 1. TWO-STROK performance tuning By A. Graham Bell 2. Motorcycle Tuning TWO STEOKE By John Robinson

The seal is not blown out, it is just leaking. If it is just leaking or blown don't run it because that side piston will seize up soon. With the new top end you should have real good compression. Do the leak down test. It will show you where the compression is going.

I think rebuilding cranks is a racket. They know they have you over a barrel. A new one costs$380 or more, and to rebuild is about the same. I realize it is real tecnical and takes time to get it right. I took a rebuildable crank to a local motorcycle repair shop. He said he got them rebuilt in Portland by Twister for $140. I went HO Yea, OK do it. So off it went and four months later it finally got back. Guess how much it cost? $340 Im glad I had lots of time to save up. I kind of thought it would be more and I needed the crank. It was rebuilt real well sooo. It a toss up

You do have something wrong. A stock banshee should be around 39 or 40 HP. When you put pipes and a K&N filter on you should gain about 7 to 10 depending on the pipes. Your gearing is way high. Is top end speed what you want? 22cc domes are just a little up from stock. You should go to 20cc domes and mix 92 oct with trick110. Then advance the timing by 4 degrees. Look at the spark plugs. If they are brown your good, if light brown to white you need more jet. Try going to a 310. good luck

Do you have spark when the motor dies? If you do, its a restriction somewhere in the gas. If no spark, look into unhooking the tors. There is a little black box up under the left side of the gas tank. The wire on the thumb throttle needs cut but I think it needs to be wired back to its self. Then the E-brake wire need to be cut. The wires to the tors on the carbs can be unhooked too.

Mill .030 off your head. Take and port the reed cages and use TDR .018 and save up your money. If you just have to spend some money I would buy the head first with 20 cc domes. Keep running the ported reed cages till you have the $225 for the Delta II or III's.