itsaripper

Hi, Prolly the one thing that will make the most HP on a stock motor is a good set of pipes. Then mill head about 35 thousants, or get a aftermarket head with 19cc domes. The added compression will get you up on the pipe faster. But now you need some higher octane gas. Use a good synthetic oil like AMSoil dominator, or redline, 50 to 1. Add a set of podd air cleaners with covers. Now advance the timeing 4degrees. Get some VForce reeds or port the reed cages and put some Tony Daukes solid .018 thick reed on. Now if you still want to mess with the intake get some 28mm flatslide carbs. All this will help a stock motor and not cost too much. But the more used to the power you get the need for more power will hit you. Then a port job is now in order. So there are a few ideas to start your addiction to speed.

The first question is do you have aftermarket pipes. They are the one mod that is going to give you the most hp with a stock motor. With a two stroke it is the combination of all the mods that make power. Adding a set of carbs with out adding compression, reeds, timing advance, and or porting, will just cause the motor to bog off idle. Porting the motor and using the wrong pipes will restrict the power also. My sugestion would be: 1 pipes 2 Reeds 3 Ditch the stock air box and get pods 4 Get a cool head 5 Advance the timing 6 Carbs, but without porting, nothing bigger than the pwk 28mm This should give you something to ponder.

First the shifting forks have rollers where they ride inside of the shifting drum. They make the shift smother. Second the gear ratio on one or two of the gears is a little higher. I can't remember that now! It was either first or third and forth. With more power the RZ could take advantage of the higher ratio's. Third It was painted Black, made it tougher.

A nother option is to have the stockers taper bored. Almost as much air going through them as the 28s but they won't have any trouble with the slides leaking. A old trick the RZ racers used was to bore the stock carbs up in the bore. In other word take material out of the top to make the bore look egg shaped, then you don't mess up the side of the slides to leak. Everything looks stock but you have a much bigger carb.

I looked at my notes from five years ago. They said a Kawasaki KX 100 from 2001 came stock with a Keihin PWK 28. Ofcourse you would need to buy two. The jetting would be a little low for the Banshee.It seems like Kawasaki was selling them for about $95.

Is this your first modification? If yes, adding carbs are about fourth or fifth in the list of Banshee mods. Pipes are prolly first, a cool type head for more compression, second. Then advance the timing, and better reed cages. You can port your stock reed cages or get V-force. Put pods on the stock carbs. Then port the jugs and with that are the pipes able to handle the air flow. So now maybe CPI's or Rocket's or Sheer. With the porting and pipes now you need bigger carbs. Ok stop for a second and look at the Banshee engine. If you put after market pipes on it, you will move air out of it better. But wait go back to the carbs. They will move more air than the stock reeds, then the stock reed will move more air than the stock transfers can. So improving the pipes and the compreson on a stock motor will help it a lot. But throwing a bigger set of carbs on could cause a bog when cracking open the throttle because of the bottle neck at the reed and the ports. Is a combination of things that make more power. Not just bigger making more. That prolly wasn't even what you were asking about. I better quit thinking and go to work.

Yes they are the little metal things. You can take a die grinder and cut off some of the outer end, so you can bend them out more, to let the reeds open more. But it is better not to take them off, because they help the reed to rebound. They accualy help at hi rpm. Where does the Banshee run? At hi rpm's the reed will just slap the sides of the intake and sooner or later brake. Then how come the v-force don't use them? Because the v-force has more petal surface and all them opening up at hi rpm is not enough to need the back up. Also the angle of the petal, very steep, it only has to move a little to be open.

Whether they help your power or not depend on what your porting is and your carbs and your gearing etc, etc. If your porting is close to stock they prolly won't do a lot. Usually there will be some improvement in a spacific rpm, but not gobs. I have read posts that guys say a set of CPI's helped their power on stock ports. But they would prolly make 25 to 30% more if ported. It was said a lot on the old forum, the exhaust port will move more air than the stock transfers can move, and the stock transfers can move more air than the stock reeds and cages can and the stock reeds and cages can move more than the stock air filter. So from that knowledge where should you make the improvement? The pipes, Ports, reeds and cages, filter? It really get down to what is the best combination. One mod by its self may not do a lot, and sometimes can hurt. Like adding to big of carbs for yor porting. Back to how much air can be moved. Now you have to much gas going in and wonder why it bogs of idle. Ok, ok I wasn't going to write all that. Just got to thinking and writing. If they were cheap enough I would give them a try. They are somthing different.

Tell the kids to go build up their own Banshee. They can have it when they can pry your cold dead fingers from the handle bars. I am 55 and going the other way. I am building up a asphalt drag Banshee. Just Do What You Like!

A lot of rebuild carb kits are made up for more than one motor applacation. The O-ring you have is prolly to a motor that has the same Mikuni 26 carb but it bolts on instead of having a snout that goes into a rubber mount. The O-ring goes around the inlet on the intake. Honda four strokes use that style of carb. If you didn't find one in the carb taking it apart it isn't for your applacation.

Be careful about going big on a stock bore. The vacume your motor uses to pull(throttle responce) in the next charge of gas will be reduced a lot. It needs the smaller hole to speed the incoming charge of air up to draw the gas from the float bole up through the jets. The motor will run on these carbs but you will prolly have a spot that bogs or dies on the lower end of the RPM range when cracking on the throttle. You could add some compression to the motor and get a better throttle responce with the bigger carbs. Why don't you try and get the stock carbs bored out to 28s, they bore them up in the ventury not making a bigger circle but make it egg shapped. Also another option is to have the stockers taper bored to 27and 1/2. I don't know what the boring cost now days but it used to be about $40 a carb. Then when you are done you can sell them for what you have into the bore job. Anyway good luck.

OK This gets brought up about as much as "what is the best pipes? So I will throw it out there first. I USE F-TYPE AUTOMATIC TRANS FLUID. I have used it for five years and never had any trans problem. It shifts great and I change the oil at about twenty hours. It's cheap about $2.35 a quart hear. I have read all the reasons people think that it won't work. But you know what it does. So everyone will use what works for them. Just one caustion don"t use Dextron it has slicking agents in it, where the F-type makes the clutch grab.

Fast500 is right the sparkplug wire on my Banshee burnt out the inside. The spark had to jump over a inch and made it hard to start. When running at low rpm's it would miss. After the rpm's came up the plug started hitting. I got a new wire and plug boot and missing went away. Try moving the plug wires to the other side and see if the other plug hits, cause both plugs fire at the same time. One piston will be at TDC and the other at BDC. One exsplodes the gas the other just fires into the exhaust. So that should help you see if you have a bad wire or boot.

Here is a picture of what I did to my reeds. If you want to see more pictures, email me, and i will send them to you via email. Thanks, Dan

I don't remember ever seeing this setup you are talking about. But setting the carb that far away from the reeds would slow down the harmonic impulse to the carb coming from the cylinder. It would be somewhat like a valosity stack, which is used on the back of a carb to get the air started to lining up into the carb. It depends on how long the tube is to where the RPM range is the strongest. Also this in effect inlarges the case so a larger charge is waiting to enter the cylinder. I think that the gas would have more chance to drop out of the air streem between the carb and the reeds. But because it is a drag bike the rpms are so high there is no lag time to drop out. So there are a few thoughts on this setup. I don't think this would work on anything but a drag motor.

Okbeast Do you have a set of dome you are not going to use? Like a set of 20cc or 19cc that you would sell me?

If you are thinking about doing any porting I would say to look into a real porting tool. Like a Fordom, CC Specialty, WeCheer, and some good Chinese knockoffs on ebay. The motor is 1/4 to 1/3 HP and is remote (sets on a stand,or lays on the table). They have way more control because they use a foot pedal,varieble speed. When you are cutting aluminum you don't want the cutting burr to create heat and melt the aluminum. When that happens it will be a harder spot and then hard to get leval. Been there and did it. With those machines you can go slower and see what is happening better than a Dremal that turn at 20,000 rpms. Cleaning up the intake and the transfers won't hurt at all. Taking the exhaust port up and opening the transfers up, up meaning taking matieral off the top of the port, and changing the angle of the transfer ports as they come into the cylinder is where you can mess things up. Somthing to think about. I remember this being said often on the old Banshee HQ The Stock carbs will flow more air than the stock reed cages will flow, and the stock reed cages will flow more air than the stock transfers will flow. So think about that when asking "Will Vforce reeds help my stock motor?" Yes to a point, but if your cylinders are ported they will be way better. Then you might need some bigger carbs. Then all this you have done may be to much for those old pipes and you need some that work more at high revs. All of the component need to work together. Just putting CPI's on a Banshee won't do a lot,(prolly better than stock). But matching things will take you farther than radical changes on either end of the cylinder. Sorry about the lecture . Yea go ahead and clean up the intake,ports and tranfers it will help.

Wow it nice to see some names I know on here. Fixitrod, Meat, Benb. I haven't been on here a lot, but when I do, theres not anyone I know. Everyone moves around. I changed jobs, have a 66 Bronco I am working on and just keeping up with the HoneyDo list keeps me busy. Anyway good to see ya.

Are your pistons cast or forged? The first startup I just let it set and idle till the radistor was just warm. Wait till I could not feel any heat in the radiator and repeat two more times. Then the forth time take for a easy ride, not winding out to far, for about 10 minates. For the first tank of gas try not to lug or rev out to far. Just put some time on the motor. Remember everthing is tight and it won't hurt to let it work in a little. I have done the two heat cycles and ride it hard after that but it was on a dirt bike. I don't think the rebuild cost as much as the Banshee and I was younger and more impatient. Good luck If you have forged pistons you need to warm up your engine befor you hammer on it anyway. After its broke in.

Does it backfire when you are coming up on midrange, midrange or when you are up on the top end? Backfire is a sign or being lean. Does the motor pull good up to the top of 4th and your about to shift and pow. Shift to fifth and same pulls them pow, backfire. If that is the way it is acting, go up one on the main jet and down one space on the clip on the needle.

The Banshee case is one of the easyst cases to split. Just take off the clutch cover and drain overnight. Take the topside bolts out and turn over and set on head and trans top. Take off nuts and tap in a couple of places front and rear and the case will split. Just lift off. Clean up will take longer to get all that Yama-bond off. Try to find some RZ shift forks, they have little roller that go in the shift drum. Your banshee will shift so easy and less missed shifts.

The tool is sold by CC Specialty. Google it and you can come up with the web sight. They sell a 90 degree tool that is the best one to use. Cost like $330. So you better be doing more than one set of jugs. Fordom also used to make the same tool but I can't find it anywhere now, so the other one is it.

Take the motor out. Take the plugs out. Turn over so it is setting on the head and the back motor mount. Remove all the little bolts and pry the case apart and lift it off. Drain the oil first. Clean off all the goo reassemble.

Have you any pictures on here anywhere so I could see what your swingarms look like?

Ok so some of you have had bad luck with bored carbs. I bought a set of stock carbs taper-bored to 27.5 and they were like putting the after market pipes on. It was a whole nother level of power. I would only have a reputable shop do the bore, like LRD in Portland. Now looking ahead that is as far as you are going to go with these carbs. So the PWK 28 style will give more top end and still be good if you port more.