itsaripper

Hello Do you have a clutch push lever? The thingy the clutch cable hooks to down on the engine. Also how much for the crank?

This problem got me thinking, because I am always asking "what would I do". I went and got my RZ case and put the front row of gears in and looked at where the push lever assembly sets. You could drill a 1/8th to 5/16ths hole just 1/8 inch to the rear of center right on the case line. Take a long shank punch and tap the push rod out. Then fill the hole with JB weld and put the push lever back in and your ready to ajust the new rod and ball. If you have a clymers manuel look on page 122 & 123 at 14,16,17, and 18. You can see what I am talking about. The down side is the shaft could be swelled so much you can't get it out with out bigger hammer. If you do this you should put the nut back on the end of shaft and have someone backup the shaft so the side of the case doesn't have to take the pounding, in there where the bearing mount to the case. Thats just to not cause another problem. This is just a idea and if you aren't that mechanicly inclined maybe ya better not.

Is everything on these auctions from the 2000 banshee you talk about in the A-arm auction?

The TZ output bearing No. is 93390-00012-00. That is a Yamaha number. Also Grand River sells a 9 baller for around $45, look on ebay they have them on a auction all the time, or call them. All the notes I have on a 4 mill stroker say you can use the 795 pistons, if the stroker has the long rod. But you are still going to need to do something with the head or use a spacer plate. I wish someone had a fax on this to clear it all up.

Roosthrower I have heard that done befor. Did you take the halves clear apart or just lift bottom up enough to get seals in? If you didn't take clear off how did you reseal the inside case lines?

Just so we know what left you are talking about. Is the cylinder you are looking at, from when you are sitting in the seat or standing in front of shee? I refer left to right when sitting in the seat. Also you can say stator side or clutch side. If it is the clutch side I would say your case seal is leaking trans fluid into crank and making smoke. If stator side coolant is getting in to cylinder some how or jet is loose in carb letting to much fuel in. Also maybe float level is to high

If you loose a crank seal only that side runs lean. On the banshee you have basicly two seperate engines using the same crank. If the left seal leaks you will fry the piston, and there is not much warning. If the right seal leaks you start smoking real bad, on right bank,(burning trans fluid) or fouling plugs. If you need more octain ether side can detonate and blow. When the plug loosens up and blows out you almost always have a detonation problem. Maybe the 93 octane wasn't as high as was advertized. Did you have new gaskets on the intake track? If there was a leak by the reeds or boot, you could burn a piston.

OK I will try this. First you have the carberator, the outer end(big end) also known as the bell. Then the little end, goes toward the motor, into the boot. The boot is black rubber, round at carb going to square so it can bolt to motor. The reed cages are next. Square on outer end and inside look like the triangle you said. They go into the cylinder pointing down towards the base. The peddels are attached to it. Any cracks or ripping is not good. You should replace them. While you have them off port them and get some TDR reeds. That is one easy cheap mod you can do yourself .

Have you ever heard of the Yamaha 350 RZ? They did what you want to do already. Only the power valve system has better bottem end than the banshee, and made about 50+ something hp. I think they were made 83,84,85,86 for the US market. Look into one of those.

I just looked at my RZ case I am putting banshee jugs on and the case just does not come out far enough to seal the cylinders at the front. Where the little rubber thingey is. Any idea how to make it work. I was thinking about JB welding the case out front, then fileing it flat so the gasket would seal. Any better way?

I have a 87 and it came with a title. But some states don't give titles. Could you lightly sand the number area and use some paint remover? Or have they been ground off? I would call the DMV and be as anounamos as possable. Say "I am looking at a frame, to buy. Give any numbers you have. Is it hot? If no numbers then say, I am building a quad and the frame I have has no numbers. Someone lightened it for drag racing, or I had a friend do some clean up on the frame. I am getting it power coated and the numbers aren't there anymore. You may need to grind down some of the weld to look like it was being prepared for a power coat. Then ask can I get a title for Assembled in 2004"? But at that point they are going to want to see the frame to put some ID on it. But for $400 I would take my banshee down to the frame. Maybe pull the plastics, tank, swing arm(one bolt and whole rear comes off), motor, and front tires. After that it should look like you just bought a frame. Well those are just some ideas. Keep us posted on how you do.

What happened? I signed on yesterday and there was like 15 useless postes that half of them you couldn't read. Then the last two he ask if anyone wanted to fight, and started calling everyone gay. So I ask if anyone could just deleat him. If I would have had a button to push I would have been pounding on it!!!!!

Can somebody ban this retard from posting useless junk?

I figured it out!!! That was your muffler bearing clunking

I did the shift star mod myself. It turned out just like the pictures. I used a carbide bit to back cut the neutral. Also a small trick a engine builder showed me. Take a small round file and open up the inside end of the shift shaft where the shifting mechanism adjust bolt is. So that it travels a little farther each way to let the cogs move the star a little more. Mine shifts great. Putting around or under power.

Well then I would lower the mains one and do a plug check. I say that because my friend had stock pipes and the big K&N. With 220 it poped and snorted alot. With 240s he was over carborated. The new top end restores your compresson back to where it was when brand new. That should give you good throttle response. What pilot jet is in the carbs? Stock is 25. But throttle response is not your problem, flooding is. I seem to be going in circles Maybe someone else can give ya some more ideas. Good luck

With all that idle time you prollly have a shit load of carbon in there on the piston and the head. When you let it sit the humidity and time will loosen it up. When you cranked it over the carbon was in the squish area and made the smacking noise. Start it up slow again and warm up. Then take it out and do a couple of drag race runs and burn that carbon out. Only do that if you are sure the jetting is right. If when you start it and the smacking noise is there and your freeked. Take off the carb and the reeds and look in at the top of the pistons. To see if they are hitting the head or if there is carbon stuck on the piston hitten the head.

You could use a gear puller but that is getting extream. You should be able to put two screw drivers behind and gently pry outwards. A heal bar works good too. Just don't pry to hard, everthing there is aluminum and will crack or break. With the clutch plates out the basket should spin free, it rides on a bushing. The clutch housing is what is stuck. It is setting just inside of the clutch basket. If you pull the basket they both should come off. There is a thrust washer between them. So that is the extra washer you have when you get the basket off. I have use a puller on the clutch basket, but I only turned the bolt with a wrench holding it at the box end so I didn't have too much leverage. If it don't come off ya don't want to keep turnen.

You are getting to much gas if the plugs are wet when ya pull them. When your bike is setting does the carbs leak out onto the ground? Something could be in the needle and seat. Do you know the size of the main jets. If something isn't in the needle and seat then your prolly to big on the mains. What mods do you have? If you have pipes and aftermarket filters. Your jetting should be around 260. Now elevation plays in here too. The higher you are the jetting goes down. If you are closer to sea leval jetting goes up. Have you ever read BenB's jetting fax ? Find one of his posts and it is at the bottem. Copy it for reference its great.

Getting the jetting up to 280 to start like JJ said is a good to do cause you don't want to fry it right away. Like he said when you add better air flow you need to jet up. I would only let the motor run on the first three heat cycles for 3 minutes or till you can't hold your hand on the radiator. Then for the longer heat cycles ride around, it needs air to let it cool.

The motor will run till you shut off? It doesn't just die? If it just dies while riding for no reason, I would look at the coil. If it just won't start you have to eliminate some problems. First take a small screw driver and put in the spark plug end and push the kick starter by hand slow. Unless you don't mind getten shocked, it will make ya say Ieeeee!!!! If you have spark then its the gas. If no spark take a ohem meter and see if juice is getting to coil then switch, then if its coming out of stator. Do you have any friend that have a banshee that you could take their CDI off and try when this happens?

At my local airport they sell only 100LL. I never could get the 110LL, so only used 100LL. If you have 110LL you are not going to need all of the octane unless you are at 190 + compression. The aviation fuel is very consistant, FFA rules and all. It will run a little hotter than gas, because they use alcohol to boost it. I just left my jetting alone, but you should check your plugs and change if nessasary. I was running Amsoil 2000 with it and the plugs looked light brown and greenish. I have switched to a mix of 2gals of Trick to 3gal of 92 octane. The price worked out to the same without the added heat. I would still run it but like the other mix better.

The tap and drill I got with a motion pro kit are. Tap---6mm x 0.75 thread pitch Drill--- a number 6 You can prolly get one at Lowes or any tool department. Even Sears should have it. Metric is getting more common here all the time.

First the race logic templates work for a good start. Then you need to read a book by A. Graham Bell---Two stroke Performance Tuning. Also a book by John Robinson called Motorcycle Tuning--Two stroke. You will get a good overall idea what to do and where. For tools to do a port job go to www.ccspecialtytool.com . You will need the 90degree grinder that they make to do the transfer ports. They are the best. But Fordom also makes good motors and strait grinders. Hey maybe your dads shop can buy the grinders and carbide bits for you. Then you can become a" weekend hacker" as Dan at patriot racing called us. Just remember the guys that make a living at this aren't going to tell you all their secrets. Your going to have to ask and ask some more. Start out with the temptates and go from there to the transfers, take it slow and useing a degree wheel will help. I just remembered a web site www.McDizzy.com has a lot of pictures and help for begining porters.

I have seen dyno runs that showed 37 others 39. So lets say 38. Fatties and powercore exhausts should give you about 6 hp. The better air cleaner and reeds about 4 hp. But this is all relative, if you don't jet it right you won't get close to these numbers. If you port a little it will improve the effect of the pipes. If you were to port a lot you need to pipe to the port job. Like useing CPI's or Grand River drag pipe or Vito's Fat Bastard. Anyway back to the question. You should be at about 48 or so. You can get a few more with a Noss or a Cool head with 20cc domes. Then you need to rejet again and watch the compression to get the right octane. Once you have got past that Whaa Hoo of the stock banshee. You start on the never ending modifacation ride. Remember it a combination of parts working in concert that make good power. Just my 2 cents Thats all I had left after I gassed up.