itsaripper

LRD makes aftermarket frames. Mostly drag frames. They are real exspensive, $2000 plus, but are light, all aluminum. I just went to www.lrdperformance.com and couldn't find anything on frames. I guess you could call them.

There was a bike shop in Umatilla Or. selling cranks that looked like that on EBAY. He also never put Hotrod or Wiseco in the discription. Turns out it was a China knockoff. Ask if it is a Wiseco. If it isn't, you be the judge. It seams like when it is a Wiseco everyone put it in the discription. They want you to know that up front.

Parts changer on a bunch of old warnout farm equiptment. My other job is trying to keep up with my wifes ever growing Do list.

Sure any cleanup you do will help. It lets the air flow better and not have turbulance which slows it down. Porting the reed cages will help ya, better throttle responce and top end.

Brooke You hit the nail on the head, and I mean the hammer the nail and your whole fist went threw the wall. The media is so left. As for college it is the only place in the world that still believe and teach that communism is a great form of goverment. Between the two, you would get the idea that the US is always Bad, always wrong in everything, Imperialst, and just rapeing the world for more oil. I am getting to where I only belive the weather report, and its only half right.

I knew a guy once that took the nut sack from a buck he shot and put it on the 4x4 shifter on his pickup. He had it on there atleast till his wife found out what it was.

First off to be jetted right (making the most power) you are on the verge of burning a hole in the piston. So most of the time you start out real rich and go down. Now when the heat goes up the jetting goes down,also when you go up in elevation you go down in jetting, and the opposite if going the other way. For every 15 degrees move in the thermometer,you need to jet up, or down one point. It sound like you are going to be a little rich. If you were jetted right at 35 degrees you are going up 45 degrees so 3 points. Like 00banshee said check the plug a couple of time and you will get it right. Just don't hold the thing wide open for much longer than a count of four.

You are right about the jetting, it needs to go down some. As the heat in the air goes up the jetting needs to go down. When you move the clip on the needle you are like only going one fifth of a point on a jet. It is for fine tuning the carbs. Most of the time you don't need to mess with the needles when jetting. Anyway try it.

I would clean it with fire. Put it in the fire and watch all the dirt go away. Then go get a K&N. If you just have to use that stock POS wash it with dawn and warm water, shake out and let dry. Install and you are ready to go. Why do I feel like I just told someone how to destroy his motor.

Nighty, to answer your question about the transfer tubes angles. The direction they discharge the fuel is a critical factor. First off their job is to displace the exhaust (burnt gas) with a new charge of fuel. The main transfer port (big one closest to exhaust) is angled to blow across the piston and hit oneanother to slow down. The auxiliarie ports (the smaller one back of mains) are usually aimed up at about 45 degrees. Then the rear port is angled up at (looks like about 60 degrees) to help push the exhaust out of the top of the cylinder. I said all that to say clean up the ports but don't raise or lower them usless you know what your doing. The bevel is what you put on the edge of the port window. So the rings can go past and not hang up. Hope this helps and didn't confused ya more.

Oh yea!!! Power valve with EFI, lets say 70hp. Put it on the limited edition and make the motor for sale by its self too. They would never be able to make enough of them. Well pigs will probably fly first. I think the four stroke is it, in the future.

You said that well. The battle rages on in the reed cage arena. Delta IIs seem to be the go to set up, if you have $200+ to spend. I have seen dyno runs that showed them doing good on a stock engine,and better when on a ported engine. If you are a do it yourself guy then port your reeds and use TDR reeds. Cost, some time and $33. I have this set up and it works good for me. I don't know about the pyramids. What you use kind of depends on your money, skill, and the stage of modifacation of your banshee. Th G3 are a throwback to the mossberger reeds that came out years ago. The idea of a long narrow reed pettle is good. I don't know if the seat of the pants dyno would say they are better or not.

That is the shift cam. Look at the other end you can see the shift star. For 118 bucks that better be great!!!!

Yes the motor over heated. But if it just spit out a little water you are prolly ok. Your motor is water cooled but it does not have a radiator fan, so after you ride hard just cruse around for a minate or two keeping air flowing through the radiator. One more thing to think about doing sometime in the future is replace the water pump impeller to a billet one. The stock plastic can if got hot to many times will melt, and the motor will start to get hot all the time.

KEIHIN PWK 28 is a great carb for what you are doing. Call the nearest Kawasaki dealer and ask for a price on a carb for a 2001 kx100. My local dealer is around $100 each. When they ask why you need two say because I want to change the carb instead of the jets. Also look at www.motocarrera.com they sell mikuni 28s for $105. Good luck!!

One more thing to do before you bolt it all together. Take the rings, one at a time, and put them in the bore. Push them down about half a inch with the piston. Take a feller gauge and see what the end gap is. Should be no less that .014, and no more than .028. If the gap is less than .014, take a small fine flat file, hold the ring between your first finger and thumb, so just a little bit shows and take a few swipes then recheck. If the gap is less than .014 the expansion of the piston in the bore could cause ring to stick. If the gap was more than the .028 you should have bored and got new pistons.

You could also try Superior Sleeve in Portland Oregon.

Sorry to hijack your thread. But anyway, Thecabinboy, have you counted the pieces of that puzzle in your picture? You know that wouldn't make to bad of a poster. When working on your motor, you could look up at it and say" Oh the left ventrical alortooter should look like that!! Anyway just a thought.

Hey Meat Try some Amsoil. 50 to 1 is 13 oz. in five gallons and its red when your finished, so later you know it was mixed gas. Also very little build-up on the piston.

Can't they break those up with radio waves, and get them to pass. If its out you will almost not be able to eat fats or oils. You are going to be on a major diet change. I'm sorry to hear of your problems.

Thanks for the info. I was asken cause the head I have I can't get big bore domes for. Noss's head is cheaper, just was wondering if the pro-design big bore domes went in the Noss.

Will big bore domes go in a regular Pro-Design or Noss head? Or is the head specificly a big bore only?

walsh Here are two sits that have hiem joints. Hope they help ya. www.bajaconcepts.com and www.kartek.com

To answer your question about parking. Let me give you a mental picture. Have you ever tried to put five pounds of flour into a two pound box? If they can organize the drags a little better and get everyone who wanted to drag to the line. Its crouded but a fun experiance. I would go again.

That ain't going to happen. The wrighting is on the wall two strokes are going out. All the R&D is going into the four stroke guads. I have often wondered why Yamaha never offered the powervalve engine as a option. They could have said "Son here is your grocery getter 40hp banshee. Now over here we have the Power Valve version with 53hp. Which would you like and how many". Its only $500 more. Dahh would any red blooded American make the wrong choice.