Jereme6655

not to mention that you look like you got an allignment issue too.....like your right front tire is aiming WAY out compared to the left...

okay......look at your choke-side carb. If you look at the little choke plunger you can see JUST behind the knob there is a small nut.....i believe its liike a 10mm......if you upbolt it you can take the entire plunger out of the carb giving you access to the choke circuit....and the ability to clean out any stuck debris in there. IF you have a buddy with a banshee and stock carbs id suggest you ask him to barrow his choke plunger.....take his out and install on yours and see what happens....it'll only take seconds to do. They do have a problem with going bad on occasion......that's why Jeff at FAST usually carries a few used ones in his inventory...

nothing to do with it immediately......but they do play a role with each other... elevation has to do with amount of air molecules in a given area......more of them equal a better breathing engine which means that you get more compression in each stroke of your piston meaning more octane is needed to make sure the fuel stays stable under the higher compression so that it doesn't pre-ignite....... so how does elevation not have to do with octane?

depends on alot of other factors......we need to know ALL the mods on your bike AND what your elevation is before we can give a decent answer...

well now see this could be interesting.....because i believe that if you have a drag port, then you are missing too much metal in your ports to do the correct porting for the 4mil. however if you go with a serval you are gettin new cylinders to begin with. you COULD keep the other bottom and top end to either use it in a play bike or build a spare motor in case your the kinda guy that likes to get crazy with over-revs and has the chance to pop motors.... the serval should have more of a broad powerband to it.....more feel to the throttle than a real quick snap and your off kinda thing. that alone will help you out in dirt and gravel trails as you can come onto the pipe slower and not break the tires way too loose.

i know the parking brake will bog the bike to the point of non-ridable.......and some have had issues with it not allowing the bike to run... i wonder if maybe your parking brake limiter is activated but the melted wires are only letting it limit one plug. either way it is an electrical gremlin that you have......and you need to take care of those melted wires before you can try and track down anything...

im wondering if something is wrong with your choke circuit.....try and pull your choke out with your bike running and see if there is ANY change at all......if it doesn't change then i bet your choke isn't working......hence why its hard to start cold and easy to start hot....

to list a few things for the +4 motor.......your gonna need +4 crank porting for your jugs (to get the most out of the motor) rechambered head different pistons (blaster pistons if i remember correctly) larger carbs

i run the rarz2's on the rear.....6ply and do great in the dirt....great grip...but just enough slip to be fun....

there are actually alot of people on here that run 100LL as it is can be perfect if you need more than 93 but less than 110 octane. you wont see any gains from it.....actually you can see a decrease in performance if your motor isn't built with higher compression.... but yes you can run it without harming your motor......it would be kinda like runnin 103 in a stock 350 chevy....

[quote name='Coupelx' timestamp='1307938439' post='1244943' tear it down and have a look inside everywhere. it will be CHEAPER. hell yes it will......even if you just try and look for something wrong it will save you money. i mean if that idle gear jams cause of a bushing it's gonna lock your motor HARD along with leaving you on the side of the trail because the kicker and the motor are goign to be engaged at the same time......meaning your aint starting your bike til you fix it. i mean if it locks up your gonna need to tear it down anyways to repair it......but it's gonna take out AT LEAST the idler kicker gear.....AND the bushign will need to be replaced....or you can just check out the bushing and it'll save the gear (if that's what turns out to be wrong) and it will cost you a whole whopping $15.95 from FAST (farmandsandtoys.com)......and that's for a steal bushing...not stock bronze. plus there's no hassle of being broke......or the hassle of lookin over your stuff for more crap that the gear wiped out...haha

whacked out stator? try putting an ohm meter to it and see what your getting...

id check your float heights....almost sounds like your running your bowls out of fuel....

it honestly varies.....no two banshee motors are exactly the same.....even if they are both factory stock machines. Most get an average of around 115-125ish as stock compression....but it also varies on the altitude you are at. At higher alititudes you will see less compression but a normal running motor where as at low altitude you will see high compression and require higher octane fuel. if you are around sea level to say 1500ft of elevation then i would say with 145 you may have eiher a smaller sized cc dome in a aftermarket head (such as a cool-head or a noss head) or you may have a machined stock head. but you never know til you rip your shit apart and check EVERYTHING out...

done yelling? the serval and the wompus are not the same. The serval is an all around cylinder with modified port timings to allow the power to be a very usable all round power motor. the WOMPUS is designed for street racers.....yes it DOES have different port timings than stock and is meant to be a power motor.....but it looks REALLY close to stock....if you werent within 5 ft of it and knew what you were looking for, youd miss it. The serval and wompus are both mono-blocks.......but they are definately not the same....

Jeff at F.A.S.T. has a clutch kit that is almost raved about on here......ive heard that it can run just normal with stock bikes and also has the strength and duribility to hold on some pretty strong built up bikes.....

while you have the carbs apart....... pull the main jets out and clean them and record them so you knwo what you have.......do the same for the needles and also the pilots.......this way if you have jetting problems you know for a fact what your jetting is and we can give you more help without you having to go and tear through your carbs.

i know when im cruising nice and fast on a day that's say about 70-75 degrees....im running around 170-180......but if you come to a stop you can watch the temp go up up and away. hell ive seen it get to 205 just idling. But i also descovered (with having the temp guage) how to blip and feather the throttle at certain times to help cool down the motor. Since we have no fans we have to keep the air flowing through the radiator......alot of people will shoot a hill a couple of times and then take the bike out and give it hell in a straight away to get some air movement to ensure that it is staying cool...

it totally is all about how comfortable you are with it. alot of people don't care for it because (like earlier) on alot of quads people tend to roll on their wrist in the whoops. The other reason is that twist grips have been known to put people into the trees on trails because of 2 possible reasons.....the first reason is because of installation error.. when the new throttle cable is installed, some don't check to see if they have enough cable slack and the first turn they roll into on the trails tightens that cable and away the bike runs with you on it. The other reason is because of the twist......a twist on a dirt bike is breat because you lean with the bike....so your wrist stays level with the bars (for the most part). on an atv if you go into a turn hot, your hiking your ass off the side or at least leaning like a freak.....but the quad is still on all 4 which means that you have to cock your wrist to the side in order to stay on the throttle. Well....if you have your wrist cocked hard and your on the throttle with a twist.....some have had issues with getting their wrist straight enough to back off the twist BEFORE they launched themselves into the trees. Almost watched it happen over memeorial day weekend...

i got mine welded first thing before i started bumping up the power.....piece of mind type thing...

i THINK that the banshee uses a normally OPEN toggle switch. have you tried shorting the toggle switch wires to ground? I've never heard of a banshee straight from the factory without a key switch......i don't know if they would ever make them that way.....maybe it was a dealer done modification...

yes and no.......the dunables are more "forgiving" when it comes to the incodental split second of backloading.....but you still shouldn't try and backload any over-ride.

well the 513 indicates that it is a wiseco pro-lite piston.....the numbers that come afterwards tell what your size is. you can use a scotchbrite pad and some elbow grease to get the carbon off more so that you can read the pisons. and it doesn't necessarily mean that he lied. he could have torn it down and just had it re-honed and had wiseco pistons put in because he didn't trust stock pistons. or look close.....has the jug been resleaved and its back to what was stock bore size?

while doing a leakdown test just spray the crank with a little soapy water.....you will see it if it IS the problem.

gotta-go has got it right....you need to get your domes rechambered/cut to the 421. i believe that both F.A.S.T. and HJR can do it for you.