Jereme6655

They are usually said to be good to about 70hp. This being stated.....if you don't port it for the 4mil then you will be fine.....however if you want it to run like a 4mil should your gonna need to get it ported.....and at that point your stock carbs may hold you back...

the banshee will run with the plug wires crossed......actually there's not a right and a wrong plug that the wires can go on. The banshee will spark both plugs at the same time.....ithis is why you will see some of us with a given cylinder that goes down grab the plug wires and swap them around.....this is used to see if the dead cylinder problem changes side.....eliminating a mechanical problem or an electrical problem to narrow down what the cause is....

when installing the pods you can take sand paper and rough up the outer surface of the carb and then also rough up the rubber on the inside of the ring that seals to the carb. it will help it hold tighter. also you can make a simple brace......1 piece of metal that screws into the ends of both the pods and then another piece goin to a solid location....such as the engine or frame. This will prevent the pod from bouncing up and down on the carb and working its way off. also use quality hose clamps.....so you can crank down on them good.

are you SURE that you put the choke tube on the correct nipple? There are also carb vents on the side of the carbs......and yes...i have seen people put it on the carb vents and wonder why the bike wont run.

dont forget that behind the clutch setup is the half-moon shaped brace that holds the top and bottom case pieces together.......don't want to be yanking on that or using a jammer to get that moved...

yes worth it.....in the sand and dust. wouldn't trust it in wet conditions..... pre-filters will help also.... there are a few members on here that do nothing but ride dunes and they run ONLY pods........and haven't had a problem. just make sure you get them on real good so they don't wobble off on the trails (or you can put a brace in to hold them up better over whoops) and make sure to rejet after!

did you disassemble them one at a time or did you do them both at the same time? The reason i ask is because the carbs actually have side specific pieces......so you could have accidently switched the carb bowls by mistake. The bowl with the little brass bead in it goes on the choke side carb....

i thought that even the stock cylinder 7mm's were equalled out to be 421's.......hmm....shit my bad.... thanks for straightening me out! M&M for the win!

boring cylinders is basically like taking a giant drill bit and coring out the cylinder until it is perfectly straight again.....then after that you hone the cylinder......which is what smooths the cylinder walls so that the piston rings can travel nice and smooth and seal against the cylinder walls. site sponsors do both. And no you dont need to send the whole motor......you can just send them your cylinders and they will order you new pistons then do the bore and hone job......then they ship the stuff back to you and you install the new pistons on the connecting rods and then you install the cylinders over the pistons. by the sounds of it you should inlist a friend of yours that may have prior knowledge of 2-strokes and see if he can teach you as you tear into your bike. or you can also send your whole motor to a site sponsor and they will disassemble your motor and then do the work and reassemble it and return it to you.

my first question is........have you ever ridden a banshee before? or a 2-stroke for that matter? this will play a part in where you want the power...... if you are used to a 4-stroke then your in for a surprise in just the small little 350's bite when it hits in the powerband (also called coming up on the pipe) my suggestion is to read as much as you can on how to jet a 2-stroke on this site......then ride it with the stock motor that your recieving. After that is when i would hop back on here to ask what type of mods you should do...

mattsesc is his screen name on here......he is also a site sponsor....you can find him in the site sponsor section.

421....not a 420 lol. And your are REALLY pushing the extreme limits of your stock carbs....and pushing hard. you really need to switch the carbs out for larger carbs. and the correct fuel/oil mix question is going to give you alot of different answers. most will run between 32-40 -to- 1 however we have seen people run anywhere from 20:1 all the way to 50:1. but 50:1 is just a tad too scary for me to run....i keep my shit running with 32:1

your best/cheapest route? would be to purchase a clymers manaul and pull the cylinders off and send them to a site sponsor. They do this for a living so they know what to look for and how to do the work great. Personally i like FAST racing. however i do hear great things about kevin at hjr

oh boy..... yup....and i bet travis pastrana never needed a helmet at age 14. oh wait....that's right....he landed on the face of a 200ft jump at that age and hit so hard that he seperated his spine from him pelvis.....and wound up in a wheel chair for 3 months. but i guess he was smart enough to keep his head up......even if he was wearing a helmet. fact of the matter is.......even if you thinik you DON'T need a helmet.....put one on. You never know if someone is gonna do something retarted while drivign past you if you ride on the side of the road.....or if there's more bikes rounding the blind turn and the idiots are riding 2 wide around the curve. or what would happen if your rippin along and your tire-rod lets loose, with that same ditch on the side......we have seen worse from better maintained bikes....

what your not understanding is that you need to have your cylinders taken off the bike and taken to a shop and have them bored out. this is where they grind down the cylinder walls with special machinery......to give you a smooth perfectly round cylinder again. But before they do that they have have to measure hwo big they are going to make the cylinder and how much to remove. What a good machinist will do is order your pistons in and then bore your cylinders to the correct size that your pistons that he recieved. it gets sketchy to bore and THEN buy the pistons.

its an odd ball problem with the 26mm stock carbs. when some of them get wet they hang up in the WOT position. However after market carbs we have no heard of doing this when they come in contact with water. So if your gonna go swimming with your bike......just make sure you keep her from hydrolocking......but you should be totally safe when it comes to having aftermarket carbs...

check out that lumpy ass shift star........... wonder how that thing feels when it shifts....

what you got yourself into is the addiction called speed. your new bike will run hard....but dont worry....if you can handle a stock banshee then you can handle a modded banshee......you just have to take it easy at first. think about the first time you rode a banshee.....was it too much for you? and now how scary does riding a banshee seem? but......now you also have started something else......the quest for a g-force influenced grin......now your gonna be crabby when you get on a stock banshee and you wont grin as hard until you get on a modded bike...

so alot of people dont think about it.....BUT.....when you loosen a bleeder valve it CAN leak from the threaded area. this is because they are a slight tapered fit. so as soon as you loosen it your taking the squish out of the nipple which losses the seal. also take a look at your brake lines....on old bikes the rubber is weaker (because of time) so when you squeeze the brakes in hard your brake lines may actually be bulging and that's why you could still have a soft lever. THAT....and banshees are nutorious for having super hard to bleed brakes....

well if your bike is running better when its choked....then what's happening is its running better when you manually starve it of air to richen the air/fuel mix.

funny larry......your sons bike is the main one that i was talkin about when i said the pvc caps....haha

hey john......let me talk to blueangel......he swapped to a twist grip last summer and wont go back to a thumb throttle....may have a complete housing that he is willing to toss your way...

90% sure its just the black and black/red wire that you need to connect. I wonder if its possible to run a dirtbike push button kill switch on a banshee. instead of removing the key....you can also get a kit ( i believe from JDs customs....one of our site sponsors) that relocates your key to the cross-brace that's under your seat. So this way you still have the ability to use a key to keep the kids who may want to joy ride your bike when you stop at a local watering hole....while still continuing to keep the clean look of a cleaned up bike.

well.....you can always throw in the 32.5 and see what happens. does it bog a little bit? sluggish off of idle? my bike wouldnt run on one cylinder (previous owner had stock 25 pilot on with FMF Fatties) I dropped in a 27.5 and it woke it up like no other. Then in the great quest for more power and a g-force induced grin.....i had it ported. Really powerful now.....but it got real sluggish on the off idle pull. so i dropped in a 30 and adjusted my idle screws and it woke up again....

my bet is that you tweaked the frame.....probably when you lost the lens cover on your left light.....and probably why your bars look tweaked. stand it up on its ass and i bet you'll see one of the bottom runner tubes is tweaked sideways and its pulling the whole front side of the front end in....