Jereme6655

you may have dumped money into a dirtbike before.....but wait til you see what a banshee's potential is......you'll get the itch. With the banshee and reliability and longevity......our site sponsors have been doing R & D on products for years.....some do the R & D for years before it even hits the market. The fact is if you talk with one of our site sponsors and pick their brain and tell them you want real long reliability and such they will tell you what works and what doesnt.......short version.....they dont sell junk that sucks. Believe it or not the banshee doesn't loose any bottom end by going to a set of aftermarket pipes. You will jump from the mid 30's to the low 40's (usually) with just a set of pipes and rejetting. With the banshee, one of the biggest bolt on performance gain is a set of pipes. And as for looks.....you can also get most sets of pipes in flat black...

Larry is correct.....the trans vent T's together with the clutch vent....usually above the cylinderes.....then from there its usually routed all the way up to the steering stem. may want to check to see ifyours just popped off. if its didn't pop off then someone shortened your vent tube and that could be why your pouring fluid out when you lift your front end...

ok....officially confused again. What "should have stopped it?" when the bike is idling and you pull the clutch in and put the trans in first......as long as your holding the clutch in the bike SHOULD NOT STOP and should keep idling.....

well....i use the clymers and most of us here do too. however there are a few out there that swear by the haynes version....

have you checked your air filter.....is it plugged full of shit that wont let air through enough to run under load?

on a stock bike you should be looking around 110-120 (depending on altitude of course) if you are below 95 you need a rebuild....or at least to pull her apart and find out what went bad..... but that's AFTER you do a compression test AND a leak down......you may have a leak that leaned your bike out so much that you burned up the motor.

any auto parts store should have compression testers.....just make sure you get one that has a fitting that is the same LENGTH on the threaded section that as the spark plugs. Then take out both plugs and screw the tester into the plug hole. Then hold the throttle WIDE OPEN the entire time.....and kick it until it stops climbing in pressure. may take as many as 15-20 kicks

you DEFINATELY need to find all the piston. you can check by trying to put the piston back together like a puzzle......dont forget to get the pieces out of the exhaust. My advice would be to take the bottom end apart just to be sure. Im a little bit of a paranoid freak though haha

before you button it up.....you should make sure that you have the excentric screw adjusted correctly on your trans claw. its what grabs the trans and forces it to shift. you must adjust it so that there is the same amount of distance between both sides....

This is why we always suggest tearing them apart seperately. Just look at the carb bowls......the choke carb (one on the left) gets the carb bowl that has the Brass Ball on the outside of it....its kinda small but you'll see it. be careful as you can alwo mistake the carb slides themselves and put them in backwards into the wrong carbs. the half-moon cut out should be aimed towards the back-side of the bike.

you do a break-in on the bike? how about a leak down test? Try doing a compression test right now and after that a leak-down test BEFORE you do anything. This will give you some ideas as to what is going on with it. Did you have a shop do the work for you?

stop with the caps....no one likes a yeller on here. After that......take your cylinders to a reputable powersports shop........tell them your doing a rebuild and you need them bored. They will meausure your cylinder bore and then machine them out to the NEXT appropiate size. you dont just go in and tell them you want it bored .040 over. They will order the next sized up pistons and then they will bore them to the exact tollerences that the pistons require. Also make sure sure that they know how to chamfer the ports to make sure your rings dont snag and rip shit up. Its WAY easier and cheaper to send them off to a site sponsor on here.......i always used Jeff at F.A.S.T. Racing........but i hear herr jugs racing is good also. Give one of them a call and have them do the work as you sound a little green at rebuilding bikes....

the chain wont go bad.....replace all the fluids....INCLUDING THE FUEL. clean those carbs good. then check the entire bike over......last thing you want to do is fire it up and take a hard run on it and realize your buddy pulled the brake pads off to change em 3 years ago. Just use common sense about looking at your bike and reassembling your motor. ALSO make sure you do a leak down test BEFORE you fire the motor up. i usually do them after i finish the assembly while its still out of the frame.

Most people remove them because they eventually start to have problems. Whether its the brain or the micro switch in the throttle.....it still does almost the same thing. If yours goes bad you will have symptoms of barley running and wont rev at all....if it runs. you can diagnose it real quick and easy by unplugging the brain box that cuts the spark.....its the little black box that's under your gas tank on the left side of the bike. Another reason people will remove them is to allow quicker access along with easier access to the carbs. If i need to pull my carbs now, i can literally have both of them off in roughly 5 minutes. If you still have the tors on your bike youd be lucky to have the tors units disconnected by the 5 minute mark.

actually just saw this happen a few weeks ago. make sure you take a REAL good look at the trans shaft (where the sproket sits on).....as when i saw this happen it chewwed up the threads on the shaft enough that the nut wouldnt fit back on. We limped it by for the rest of the weekend by taking a large dye that slightly threaded on and cranking it down tight to hold the sprocket on. hoakie but it held for the weekend. Now we get to split the cases to replace a hardened shaft....

when gas ages it will turn into a type of gummy kind of varnish which can keep the floats from moving nice and easy. its never good to store anything for a long time without draining the fuel out of it.

sounds like your runnin real lean..... you need to give us a list of mods that your bike has on it and we can tell you a rough idea around where your jetting should be before you melt a hole in your pistons....

why do you want to go bigger with your pistons?

wrong screws if your trying to adjust your idle. The screws that you are turning are the pilot air screw......which changes the mixture on the low end of things. IF you have the TORS units still on your carbs.......the idle adjust will be on the very top of those......the slotted turn knobs on the top adjust the idle....turn right to increase and left to decrease. if you do not have the TORS units on your carb tops then look at your carbs.....on the outbound sides you SHOULD see a brass looking slotted screw with a jam nut. if you have these.....this is how you adjust your idle.....first make sure your carbs are sync'd......then loosen the jam nuts so you can spin the screws by hand. then start your bike and hold the throttle at a constant speed of what you would like your idle to be. then with your opposite hand reach down and tighten your idle screws in until they JUST touch the carb slide.....shut off the bike and then retighten the jam nut.

easy on the yelling...we can hear you fine....haha. either way....like said above....you should bore them. or else they WILL break twice. the reason you had low compression was because you need a rebuild on your top end (more than likely) and also there is a damn good chance that your piston broke off its skirt because it was a worn out cylinder bore which caused to piston to have excessive play.....causing the break. Either way you should split that case (unless you find ALL pieces and can puzzle the piston skirt together to ensure that) basics....you WILL NEED to bore that cylinder out.... if you send it to our sponsors they will take care of you (usually for around $45 a side) and they can hook you up with all the parts such as pistons and gaskets that you will need.

vf2's. they still appear good as they dont show any cracks, chips, or gaps. just make sure you pull those screws out (keeping the "high" on the outside) and loc-tite them in place.....if they come loose (which rarely happens) they can go through your cylinders and play the "cha-cha im gonna make you pay sucka" dance on your pistons....

as long as you are using a synthetic oil that is meant for wet clutches then you will be okay using the synthetic oils....

could be a aftermarket bearing......either that or are you sure that its a wear mark? or are you looking at the groove that's notched out of the cases for a bearing with a nub?

and is there the little black choke tube that goes between the carbs?

Cold seize is when you don't allow the motor to warm up before beating on it........it can real havoc on your pistons......