Jereme6655

there is a wierd issue with some of the stock mikuni carbs that come on the banshee. They have a tendency of hanging WOT when you do a water crossing or when they inhale a little bit of water......and there's only 2 things you can do to get it to stop...... pray you can find the kill switch fast enough......or pray you can blip the throttle hard and fast enough that it MAY unhang the slides. either way your still going to be in for one hell of a ride....

case savers are meant to save your cases........not save themselves. yes the plastic ones will break the case saver if the chain hits it hard. yes the billet case savers will break when hit by a chain hard. difference is the plastic ones dont put the strain on your case right before the case saver snaps. The billet ones have been known to break and stress the cases so hard that they also break the cases........kind of a waste when your trying to save your cases.

yea....you DEFINATELY need higher octane if your running 19cc domes. hell i bet your up near 165 or higher in compression and your running 93.......that is absolutely why your backing plugs out.

there's a few things that can be the cause of snapping chains.......blown out swing arm bearings allowing the swing arm to move from left to right.......mis-adjusted chain.....cheap garbage chains.....no guard and you hit a rock....

That's part of the kicker gears like AK said....i bet it wouldnt start cause the cable wasn't adjusted totally correct. EITHER WAY......what mods have you done to your bike......you mentioned that your spark plug backed itself out twice on its own. that's an indication of detonation......the hammering from the detonation is what is smashing the plug out..... your gonna be ALOT more pissed if you have to tear your whole motor apart to fix and remove all the metal from breaking it...... sounds to me like you need to go up on the octane....

haha.....matt i noticed the same thing about the a-arm setup on the supposed "88". matt is right.....stay the hell away from that 88. who knows how many times the cylinders ahve been bored out.....plus if the guy thinks that pipes and v-force reeds make it a race motor then he's a complete idiot.

or he could have a carb leakin in and floodin out his pipe and then then burts idea is comin into play...

and add a set of pod filters. and dont forget to rejet.

you CAN reuse them....however....it has to be in decent shape in order to use it. i WOULD NOT think about putting it on without the washer as ive seen in person (and blue angel has witnessed it in the midst of a right turn) what happens when your sprocket nut vibrates off. Lets just say it was a little bit of a drive for 2 of us to go back and get the truck.....and the other guy wound up having to ride back in the truck headlights. We realized trying to do a trail side repair that when that nut comes off.......it chews the shit out of the threads on the nut AND the trans shaft. So long story short.......if that nut comes loose while your on it.....you're splittin the cases to replace a shaft....

it could be from running a too low of octane fuel or lean jetting or even an air leak. did you do a leakdown test on it before you pulled it apart? blowby IS in every engine.......but too much can hurt your performance. blowby can come from rings that are out of spec (worn or wrong size) or it can also be caused from worn (egg shaped) cylinders.

appears to be deto. and it also looks like you had some blow-by with those rings. Your gonna have to split the cases to make sure you get all the metal out of there.....otherwise the metal shavings are gonna come up and do it all over again.

exactly......say if you had a port job that raised your exhaust port height and put your stock head back on you would notice a lower compression number than before you changed the port heigth. do you have it ported?

if you put in a 4mil crank you will see slight performance increases from the stock stroke.......without porting the cylinders. however to achieve maximum power out of your bike you will need it to be ported for the 4mil crank (as your port timings will be off) like said above.....there are 2 different cranks. the short 110 crank is just that.....shorter (stock length) which has been said to put more stress on the cylinders as the piston has to rotate on the wrist pin farther and the crank is pushin on the side wall of the cylinder a little harder do to the short rod. The 115 rod is longer (by 5mm) and is said to put less side force on the piston....keeping the wear down. you could also get your case transfers port matched to your cylinders while its apart. its like an extra 100 and good for 2-3 hp (so ive been told) while you have it apart you may want to do the shift star mod and also the shift shaft mod to allow your tranny to shift nicer. if you are going to want more power but are low on funds right now you could get the 4mm crank and the new pistons and get your head cut.....then you could ride it like that until you come up with the other $400 (rough guess) for the port job for the 4mm crank.....

funny part.......while your trying to figure out how to put one on and make it looks stock there are alot of others on this site who are taking those off for a cleaner look while run cut rear fenders. i bet if you just asked aroudn in the shout box somone will probably be taking one off and you could just pay the shipping and they'll send it to you one suggestion i will make (if your goin to run cut OR full fenders) is if you fabricat your own make sure you pay attentino to where the mount location goes. they are not mounted in the same spots from left side to right side (viewed as sittting on the bike). so if you ever want to run cut fenders and dont want to have it flapping all over you'll have to cut your fenders a little different on the left side. OR you could just fabricate that bracket with 2 holes in it.....on lower for full fenders to mount in the normal spot and one that's a little higher to mount it in the matching spot as the right side mounts to....

yes....you can jb weld carbs. just make sure to take your time and get it right. if its on the bowl then take the bowl off to ensure that its not poking through and hanging up the floats....

Get in touch with builder.....tell him the domes are just barely hitting...possibly cut them wrong. Who cut your domes?

It does sound like a crank seal....and larry is right.....to do the job correctly you must split the cases. Get a clymers manual and take your time. Then do a leakdown test before you fire it up...

seems to be that your runnin a pretty decent amount of compression without high octane fuel. If it were me id get some higher octane fuel (liike race gas or 103) and try mixing it.....50/50 to see if that works....

the vent that dahl is talking about is a transmission vent. it is located directly under the rear motor mount. normally there is a tube that goes on it and runs all the way up and then uses a t-connection to tap into the clutch vent.....and then they get routed up over the cylinders and to the handlebars. this is to keep those areas from leaking when you lean it back ...

deto

as long as the port job is the same and your not changing anything else then you should be realatively close on your jetting. I think what is concerning most of us here is when you said you "know" the previous owner had the cases apart because its "siliconed" back together.....umm....yamaha uses grey colored yamahbond which is like a silicone to seal the cases. there are no gaskets for the cases.

if it is small little dings then it could have been detonation from lack of quality fuel or lack of octane because of high compression. or if it looks like big dings it could be cause a bearing let loose and did the cha-cha-im-gonna-eat-your-shit-up dance.....

Looks pretty DAMN good!

What to plan for? it sounds like your stock stroke crank is starting to seperate.......and if that's the case then you should plan for having that crank grind to a stop against the side of the engine case. at least that's what it sounds like is happening with your crank...

pweezy.... okay i got it now.....your clutch is not disengaging. did you pull the frictions out? did you soak them for a while? im wondering if they shrank do to lack of fluid from sitting and it got adjusted before the fluid got back into them and swelled them slightly. How bad is it dragging on the clutch? it is normal if your bikes been sitting for 2-3 weeks for it to slightly lurch forward while holding the clutch in and in gear while trying to start it....