Jereme6655

does it start with 513? if that's the case then they should be wiseco pro-lites.

tell them how you really feel......just send them back a box with a dog terd inside of it. and a note that says "this is what your companies customer service reminds me of...."

i thought it was 20-22mm measuring from the gasket surface (without the gasket in place) to the top of the float?

i think larry's right....if 50 is true then you'd have to pull that bastard behind a freakin truck that's HAULIN' ass to get enough compression to even let it fire up. Then on top of it i doubt it would even continue to run at idle.

how about some gas/oil proof RTV for a temp repair to get you riding til your seals show?

no no.....he's telliing you to look at your carbs while they are on the bike. There is a carb bowl drain screw that is on the side of the carbs.....what he's trying to get you to do is to loosen that screw so that it will drain the carb bowl and you will be able to see if there is gas even filling the carb bowls. and how in the hell did you manage to get your gas line to go upward?

micro switch for your parking break? or maybe is it a micro switch for a newer model banshee with brakes? (did they use a micro switch on the front brakes or did they only use one on the rear brakes?)

hey you didn't do a bad job....you got to the point in a way we could understand. shit i know people who talk WAY worse english and they live in the U.S.................damn ghetto....

yea its just a hole that lets the water drain from the top of the motor thorugh a hole that goes through the bottom case. that way there is no sitting water on top of the engine cases.

you may want to look into a the new "wompus" cylinder setup....it is specifically setup for street racers. As in it looks to be a fully stock top-end....when really its a mono-block monster. You may also want to re-think your pipes. Big-bore shearers aren't mean for smaller motors.....and when they say they are for big bores.....hell they mean they are for BIG bore motors...

what you can also do is just wire the power circuit on the vapor up to 2 9v batteries.....you can get the 9v battery connectors at radio shack for like $2 and it works great.....ran my vapor for almost a year without needing a change of batteries......and that was leaving them plugged in the whole time...

haha....i get what your sayin gofast.....im just also sayin that compression can be an enemy and can create situations requiring a higher octane fuel to keep it stable at certain compression levels... sorry if it sounded different than what i was tryin to get at haha

ugh.......what??? octane rating and compression go hand in hand with each other when it comes to what is safe for a motor with smaller domes....

sounds to me that your floats may need to be adjusted....

alot of people have discovered that the stock location is a little strange for the bottle to actually work......i believe its too high. Which allows the tank to not function.......so alot of people will either move it to between the frame rails just behind the bumper....or remove it completely.... it will run with no resivour.....

whoa whoa whoa......i got most of it.....but im still trying to decipher the rest of what your problem is........ you rebuilt it and its has poor spark/no spark you changed the coil, cdi, and voltage regulator with no changes but the other bikes you been stealing parts from starts??? i'd at least ohm out the stator and check the pick-up gap to see if its in spec.....

chekc to see if the spark plugs are leaking the pressure......its usually the last place that people check for bubbles. almost got baffled by it myself.....

ive got the 2's in my bike and ive never had a problem with the screws. but i remember there was a guy on here about 8 months ago maybe (?) that had pictures up of a screw that came out of his v2's and cha-cha'ed the shit outta his motor. 252wheelieking is right......if you assemble things wrong you will always have problems........so just do the shit right the first time haha

the 2's make slightly more power but some people doing like them because the screws CAN come loose and be sucked through your motor doing the cha-cha dance all the way through. however ive never seen it happen nor do i know of it happening to anyone......however it has been recorded.

if you do mods to your bike you should think about just disassembling your gas cap anyways and clearing all the vent crap out. my builder told me to take the screws out and then remove the guts so that you could see clean through it......yea i know....it sucks cause if you roll its pouring out or theres a VERY VERY SMALL chance of a little dust getting in there.....but its better than letting your bike starve to death....

ummm.....if its got a stock suspension on it then your probably going to be the only banshee out there doing 50ft tables. basically the stock suspension sucks and they do not hand jumping well AT ALL.

okay.......so if your askin what a 421 or a 485 is.....then im guessing you haven't been around too long or been doing a lot of research on here. it depends what you mean by "drag racing." if your talkin gjust racing your friends then its up to you what you want to do with power........but if your talking about actual sand drags then your a little off base with your +4mil idea...... your gonna get a BIG surprize when i guy pulls up next to you with a stretched frame and a +10 or +16 dm in the chassis and your gonna want to hide because of the embarrasment. the +4 is gonna be a formiddable trail bike motor. either way my suggestion to you is to hop on the site as much as you can and just watch the posts and read and do the leg work. alot of people wont respect you on here if your just want the answer without the leg work. and when i say do some research and ask some sensible questions.....im not talking about 2 days of research...

hahaha.....nice one savage....... yea all those same gusy are still rollin around on the site.. loco owns the site now.....nyuk is still a great guy to deal with for parts, jd's still makin his parts and bigred is still floatin on the site...

it depends how far you stretch it.....sometimes if you stretch it too far it'll snap.... haha

no....there is nothing normal about oil leaking out of your vent tubes. it sounds alot like you have a problem with your crankcase pressurizing somehow. it may just be that one of your vent lines is plugged or it could be that a seal inside your engine has let loose and is pressurizing it...