Jereme6655

how deep are the gouges? they can (should) be able to be bored out and honed by a service shop/dealer. OR GO TO A SITE SPONSOR!!! they live for banshee's and will help you with whatever you need.....plus usually they can get it done for cheaper than any service shops. the head-gaskets (unless they are the oring style for coolheads) are one time use gaskets. i know some use them more than once.....and sometimes you can.....but your lucky if it seals. once you go through a heat cycle with a head gasket.....you should toss it and put in a new one.

definately upgrade your suspension..........you can have the fastest motor in the world.....but it wont be fast unless it can get to where you need it/want it to. The suspension will really wake up your bike.....you'll be less exhausted after a long ride and the long ride will become much shorter as you can carry alot more speed through the rough sections while still enjoying it. with 165 compression your pushing the limits of fuel.....i would think that at that compression your actually running really close to having to run straight race fuel......if you were to lower your compression (by switching out domes in your cool head) you could get it down low enough to run either a mix or just straight pump gas...

that has to be what happened.....a cir clip popped out or was never reinstalled and the wrist-pin wiggled a little way out.....enough to cause its to dig in hard to the cylinder walls.

crap that's right....i forgot you mentioned that one haha....sorry you said your trigger probe got hit a few times by the flywheel right? i wonder if that has to do with it

what are the details about the bike? any power adders or anything on it? my 2001 would barely want to run on the right cylinder when you started into the throttle.....but at the 1/2 way point it would come to life and almost try and toss you off the bike. wound up being the guy never increased the size of the pilot jet for the fmf pipes he put on.....he increased the mains....but not the pilots.

its funny matt cause i could swear the profile picture is about the same too haha

hahahahaha..... i would actually have liked to see that larry....hahaha

if you know how to pull an outdrive off of a boat then i have faith that you can tear apart a 2stroke and rebuild it......a 2stroke is the simplest motor out there......shit ive seen people tear them down and fix a problem and reassemble them in a night at a campground......stupid easy.

its honestly probably one of the most common setups that you will run into on the trails.....they usually push about 70hp.......75 depending on the port and the pipes and carbs....

depends what you mean when you say if you blow a whole lower..... to do a top end on a banshee (as long as your cylinders are ok) you can have them bored and honed, a new set of pistons and rings.....and a seal kit......set you back around $300-$400

2 tools you will still need to buy......a flywheel puller (if you try to use a jaw style puller it will bend the flywheel and make the flywheel worthless) and also the motion pro clutch-basket tool makes life very easy...both together total about $30.

looks like one of those bearings did the cha-cha dance all up and down that head.......id replace it....hell you can buy a stock head on here for usually around $25-35.

thanks for the lesson sandrider......i thought they did the brake swap and the control arm swap in the same year.....good to know...

correct.....new domes for your coolhead. id call a site sponsor and have them cut them.....that way you know they are correct (as oppose to trinity) and they can tell you what cc you can safely go down to in order to raise your compression based on your cylinders\compression\and fuel

you should be able to run more compression if you want with running straight 100LL

if your going to run 100ll then you should be able to run more compression than that....should be able to run around 150ish mark.

i like jeff at FAST. Greeat stand up guy and he is also available to help you dial it in and diagnose problems if you ever have any. loves helping get things right for you as he usually winds up seeing the bikes he's modified sometime within a few years and loves to see them run.....

id say right around 140-145 is where you should be at so you sound about right...

describe the look....it should look identical to the other......if its lacking carbon on the top then you are starting to run it lean...

bigblock hit it right on the head......if you truly are using it as a "woods trail" type of banshee then you will never see 6th gear on the trails....maybe on an occasional dirt road but a super strong top end in the woods is not needed. its all give or take (mostly) for banshee mods....alot of times if you want top end you will lose a little bottom end......if you want bottom alot of times you lose top. get a good suspension under it and you can run faster down the more technical trails...

or to be a funny bastard you can just get a little kid bike style squeeze horn....haha.....buddys dad put one on his utility quad after being stopped and took it up and had them look it over to make sure it was legal......guys had a damn good laugh at it but said that it passed inspection.

as fierce said they do not replace your clutch. they are an add on that uses centrifical force to apply extra force to the clutch pack to help it hold tighter to eliminate slippage. until you get up near the 75+ (and sometimes higher) hp levels you do not require a lock-up. There are a few different styles also......ones in which you must use a different clutch cover to clear the added lock-up (which usually is about $300) and there is also a slingshot lock-up which uses ball-bearings and will fit under the stock clutch cover. if you are going to be installing a new clutch i would install a clutch from jeff at F.A.S.T. (farmandsandtoys.com).....they are known to hold alot of power without slipping. You can also run stiffer clutch springs to help slippage. you can either run all stiff (which will also give you a hell of a stiff clutch pull) or you can replace 3 of the 6 springs (off-setting them soft/hard/soft ect.) to give you a slightly stronger holding clutch. Jereme

well that can be a good thing.....as far as knowing its not a damaged cylinder. did you use a flywheel puller specific for atv's? if you use a jaw-style puller it will actually bend the flywheel and really screw things up. pull your cover and check things out. im believing that it either sheared the key or may have spun the retaining nut off. you should be using loctite on the nut and should be torquing it to 80ft/lbs. you can put it on with an impact also. do not use anything to stick in the wholes of it to try to hold it in place.....put the bike in 6th gear and hold the brakes.....or you can also take a penny and stick it in the gears to hold it from turning...

the best thing to do is to give one of our site sponsors a call.....they are banshee gods. i have personally dealt with jeff at F.A.S.T. (farmandsandtoys.com) and he is an awsome guy......GREAT guy to deal with. i also have heard that kevin at herr jugs is really good as well. Talk to them and explain to them what you want the bike to do. if money isn't an issue i would suggest gettings a +4mil crank and a serval cylinder setup and larger carbs. it will still run on pump gas and if setup correctly can achieve almost 85 hp while still retaining a good powerband throughout any throttle position. or you could go with a little less power and get a +4mil crank and have your current cylinders ported to the +4 crank which should net around 70hp. if that's still more than you want (money or power) then you can get your crank trued/welded and get a play/dune port and you should be able to hit around the 60-62hp range.

did you take the carbs apart at the same time? it is possible to put the wrong slides backwards in the opposite carbs.....and it is also possible to put the wrong carb bowls on the wrong carbs. pull the air filter and look at the slides......the half moon cut out should be visible from the backside of the bike (air filter side of motor) also look at the bows.....the carb bowl are side specific. the carb bowl that has a brass ball on it should be on the choke side carb. if you managed to flood it then you can take the pipes off and pour the fuel out of the pipes. then kick it over with the ignition turned off to get any extra out of the engine cases...... then report back...